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Old 22nd April 2014, 05:26 AM   #241
Hikari1 is offline Hikari1  United States
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I am about to embark on a super reg build. Want to use it to feed my Pass BA-3 based preamp with 24V rails. This is a complicated build for me...I've read the guide and every post in this thread but any suggestions are welcome.

Plan to use a 24V transformer into Peter Daniels PS boards w/MUR860 diodes and then 2 2,200uf caps in a CRC arrangement...probably use 4 .47ohm 3 watt resistors between the caps. This will come before the super reg.

I have AD817ANZ I plan to use for the ICs. And 100uf 35V silmic caps to use on the super reg board. These are low-esr caps...too low to use on the output?

I plan to use 2.5K resistors to get the 24V...because according to Jan:

The Vout is set by the two resistors that feed the inverting input of the opamp, don't remember the exact reference # right now.

Say you want 18V out. The bottom resistor has the same voltage as the LM329 reference (6.9V) because the inv and non-inv opamp inputs will be at the same voltage.
Then size the top resistor for the remaining 18-6.9=11.1V.
So if the bottom resistor is 1k with 6.9V, the top resistor needs to be 11.1/6.9 times 1k, around 1.6k. Similar for 20V vout, top resistor must be 13.1/6.9*1k= 1.9k.
Makes sense?


So, 2.5K seems like it would give me 24V out. And the AD817 is good up to 40V I think.

Anybody see any issues with this setup?
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Old 22nd April 2014, 07:13 AM   #242
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Try the Silmics at the output, they may be OK, an AD817 is pretty stable. Do you have a way to check for possible oscillations, like an unexplained deviation from the set 24V?
Also make the zener in series with the opamp output nominal 12V (anything between 9 and 18V will work though.

Anything else sounds fine.
To increase success rate, initially short the remote sense lines to the output lines (ground sense to ground and output sense to output). Then if all works fine you can get more adventurous.

Jan
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Last edited by jan.didden; 22nd April 2014 at 07:16 AM.
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Old 22nd April 2014, 04:52 PM   #243
Hikari1 is offline Hikari1  United States
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Jan,

Thanks for your reply and for making this board available. You are one of the good guys.

I may start a separate build thread once I get all the parts gathered. Iam hoping for a big improvement over my existing 317/337 supply.

I don't have a scope to check for oscillations but hopefully it will be stable.
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Old 29th April 2014, 02:18 AM   #244
Hikari1 is offline Hikari1  United States
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It has begun, looking to get 24v out of the reg. Nice quality board. Very well made.
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Old 1st May 2014, 06:37 AM   #245
Hikari1 is offline Hikari1  United States
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Making progess. Having trouble figuring out which resistors to change to 2.5K to get 24V out. R7 and R14? That's my best guess.
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Old 1st May 2014, 07:27 AM   #246
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The thing to remember is that the +input is at the reference (let's say 6.9V in case of the LM329), so in operation the -input should also have the same voltage.

So for 24V output you need to divide down that 24V with R6/R7 (pos reg) and R13/R14 (neg reg) to also 6.9V. (Note that in the schematic you linked, the Vout on the neg reg is at the bottom side so the resistive divider is upside down, as it were, with respect to the pos reg!).

So what's important is the ratio of R6 to R7 (and R13 to R14) not their absolute values (within reason of course).

You can easily see that the voltage across R6 (and R13) MUST be 24V - 6.9V = 17.1V. So if the voltage across R6 is 17.1V and the voltage across R7 is 6.9V, R6 MUST be 17.1/6.9 times R7!

Just pick any convenient value for R7, like 2.2k, and then R6 will be 2.2k * (17.1/6.9) = 5.45k. Sometimes it pays to juggle the values a bit to get to standard values. With R6 = 2k, R7 becomes 4.95k both values being close to standard values.
Of course the output voltage will almost certainly not be 24.0000000V, but who cares - anything between say 23.8 and 24.2 will do.

Nice built btw.

Jan
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Last edited by jan.didden; 1st May 2014 at 07:31 AM.
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Old 1st May 2014, 12:18 PM   #247
SGK is offline SGK
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Quote:
Originally Posted by jan.didden View Post
If there is enough interest, I could develop a high-current version....

Jan

Yes, please
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Old 1st May 2014, 12:23 PM   #248
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Jan,
It might be helpful to newcomers to have this post on the first page as a reference.
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Old 4th May 2014, 07:02 PM   #249
Hikari1 is offline Hikari1  United States
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Thank you Jan. I get it. This is great info, you probably spelled it out before in your article but for novice builders like me this is great info. A lot of us are building stuff "paint by numbers" style and trying to learn along the way. This is a big help.

For me, the math is easier if we just keep R7/R14 at 1K and adjust R6/R13 to get the right ratio that will allow us to hit the target output voltage.

Target output Voltage - 6.9V (this is the LM329 value) = "X"
"X"/6.9 = "Z"
"Z" multiplied by R7 or R14 value = R6/R13 value

Here are some examples keeping the R7/R14 resistor at 1K and the LM329 value (6.9V), like you said...common resistors values can be used instead to get slightly different voltages other than "exactly" 24V or whatever you are shooting for:
-----------------
24V
24 volts - 6.9 = 17.1V
17.1V/6.9 = 2.478
2.478 times 1K = 2.47K!

R7/R14 = 1K
R6/R13 = 2.47K
-----------------
18V
R7/R14 = 1K
R6/R13 = 1.61K
-----------------
12V
R7/R14 = 1K
R6/R13 = 740R
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Old 4th May 2014, 07:54 PM   #250
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Looks good to me.
Next time I get questions, I'll send the people to you

jan
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