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Old 3rd March 2014, 12:58 PM   #221
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Mark Johnson View Post
The Jung/Didden Super Regulator is a sophisticated, high performance, marginally stable circuit that is prone to oscillation, even when constructed by expert designers who have lots of experience. I recommend that you DON'T try to modify it unless you really know what you're doing.

If you can duplicate jackinnj's simulated Bode plot of the unmodified Super Regulator (in post#177), then you might have a chance of succeeding. If not, I recommend you don't attempt to modify the SR. It won't work and you'll be unhappy.
http://www.diyaudio.com/forums/blogs...regulator.html

Some of the resistors values in the above link are different from Jung SR 2000.
I have changed the resistor values according to SR 2000 version.
Other changes are :
replacing LT1086 by LT1084 (max current 4A);
R1 changed to 1.5k to get 12V output;
AD797 is used;
IRFP240 is used (for comparison with jack's result).

For ac analysis, instead of plotting Vout, 1/Vout is plotting so that the dB in the vertical axs is +ve.

The schematic used for simulation is attached for verifivation.
Attached Images
File Type: jpg SR-AD797-IRFP240.jpg (162.1 KB, 524 views)
Attached Files
File Type: zip voltageregulator-jung-ad797.zip (1.5 KB, 22 views)

Last edited by B&W_arthur; 3rd March 2014 at 01:12 PM. Reason: upload file
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Old 18th March 2014, 06:36 PM   #222
WalterW is offline WalterW  Netherlands
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Finished my board..... is there a build thread
Some pics:

Tested them and regulation is real good, I can modify the input between 28 and 40 volts and the output stays exactly 24.00V. Also when loaded with a 220Ohm resistor, so around 100mA, output still is 24.00V.

I modified the V2.2 boards with a 5K trimpot at the R6 and R13 position. ( if you don't place the ceramic cap you have exactly a third hole for the trimpot ) The cer cap can then be placed at the bottom.
I intend to use these superregs for my BA-3 as a preamp which need + and - 24Volt.
I used a AD817 from Mouser.
Now have to complete the build and listen to it

Thanks Jan!
Attached Images
File Type: jpg boards.jpg (313.5 KB, 473 views)
File Type: jpg trimpots.jpg (398.0 KB, 463 views)
File Type: jpg with BA-3.jpg (273.7 KB, 453 views)
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Last edited by WalterW; 18th March 2014 at 06:38 PM.
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Old 18th March 2014, 06:58 PM   #223
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Thanks for the feedback Walter!

Jan
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Old 1st April 2014, 06:31 PM   #224
WalterW is offline WalterW  Netherlands
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Some more pictures and questions....
Is this a right implementation of the sense wires? I sense just the V+ and V-
As you can see I had to couple the positive and negative regulator at the end of the PCB to create a common PSU ground to the BA3 board. Green wires. I included the sense in this common PSU ground.
Is there an other (better) way to do it?
I consider building another set of superregs so I can feed every rail of the BA3 board separately. 4 rails, 4 superregs. Will this enhance performance or at least channel separation?

Walter
Attached Images
File Type: jpg IMG_5271small.jpg (403.0 KB, 369 views)
File Type: jpg IMG_5272small.jpg (370.2 KB, 190 views)
File Type: jpg IMG_5274small.jpg (434.8 KB, 151 views)
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Old 1st April 2014, 08:32 PM   #225
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The only suggestion I have is to duplicate the green wire from the neg reg to the board, to the same point where the existing green wire goes.
Also then run the ground sense wires from each reg (which you now have jumped in the terminal blocks) to this same point, as you have done with the 'hot' sense wires.
The next step would be, as you say, to get another pair of regs.

Jan
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Old 2nd April 2014, 07:24 PM   #226
WalterW is offline WalterW  Netherlands
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Ah, I get that, then the grounds are all connected (common) at the BA-3 board, instead of at the regulator boards.
Thanks Jan!
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Old 2nd April 2014, 10:34 PM   #227
00940 is offline 00940  Belgium
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My apologies if it is somewhere in the article or if it has already been asked and answered... I just couldn't find it. The heatsinks seem to be Fischer sk104, 35mmx12.7mm, with a 25.4mm spacing for the solder pins. Is that correct ?

And while I'm at it asking stupid questions: the Diyaudio store is the only source for those pcb, no European source for it, right?
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Old 3rd April 2014, 07:58 AM   #228
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Yes.
Yes.

Jan
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Old 3rd April 2014, 09:06 AM   #229
00940 is offline 00940  Belgium
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Thanks :-)
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Old 3rd April 2014, 01:33 PM   #230
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BTW The SK104 comes in several lengths, iirc 25mm, 35mm, 50mm and 63mm.
For mostr small signal apps, the 25 or 35mm is fine. If you have more power to dissipate, go for the longer ones if you have the space above the PCB.

If you know the voltage across the pass transistor and the load current, multiply the two to get the dissipation in Watts.

The heatsinks have a parameter giving the temp rise per watt dissipation, looks like Rth = xx degree / Watt, like 10 degree / watt for some heatsink.
So if your dissipation is 7 watt, and the heatsink is 10 degrees/ W, the temp rise will be 7 x 10 = 70 degrees above ambient.
That is usually about the max you want to go, better is not to go above a temp rise of 30-40 degrees.

Jan
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Last edited by jan.didden; 3rd April 2014 at 01:38 PM.
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