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Old 10th August 2013, 12:48 PM   #11
jdg123 is offline jdg123  United States
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Default tap, tap, tap...

I have a question about heat sinks and tapping...

Is there any problem in the long term with making all the tapped holes "through holes"? Blind holes (ones that do not penetrate through the entire heat sink) have been my nemesis for years having assisted me in supporting my local hardware store's "tap room".
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Old 10th August 2013, 01:50 PM   #12
6L6 is offline 6L6  United States
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Quote:
Originally Posted by jdg123 View Post
Is there any problem in the long term with making all the tapped holes "through holes"?
No problem at all. In fact, making a blind hole with a hand tap, at the (small) depth we need, would be very difficult, due to the conical tip shape of the tap itself.
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Old 10th August 2013, 02:18 PM   #13
6L6 is offline 6L6  United States
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Originally Posted by malibujeff View Post
Problem is I am not confidant in my skills/abilities to complete the task.
Where do you think you need the most help? Building it? Initial power-up and adjustment? Figuring out what parts to buy?

The other question is do you have the tools for the job? You must have a good soldering iron, and one good DMM. (...and 2 more cheap ones, if you are buiding a F5, but that's easy.)

Quote:
When reading the build threads, there are so many options and variables discussed that it leaves me confused.
I understand. There are a lot of ways you could do it... But the other way of looking at it is that many of the small details are not critical, and can be done with whatever bits and pieces comes your way.


Quote:
I really need a f5 kit like the ACA or someone locally to help me come up with the parts and help me with the build.
I bet that you can find someone to help locally. Ask in the F5 thread.

As for parts, I also think someone made a Mouser shopping cart for the F5 not that long ago, but again, there are people who are willing to help.

Get a store pre-drilled chassis. That's the single hardest part for most DIYers. The chassis is fantastic. The PSU is next, wait for the new store PSU PCB, and
get a good transformer. Buy the amp PCB of choice and contact member ' h_a ' for a transistor kit, he's the only guy who sells kits with all the transistors in one go.

Put all the parts together and you have an amp!
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Old 10th August 2013, 02:52 PM   #14
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I'll add that you don't need to sweat the passive parts choice. (resistors and capacitors) One of the beauties of Pass amps is that they sing beautifully without needing special parts. Just buy parts that fit the footprint and meet the parameters specified.

A $0.10 resistor is fine. General purpose electrolytic capacitors are fine. IIRC, Pass uses Elna Silmics, so if available for the values you want it may be worth it. Where film caps are specified, anything that fits the footprint works. Chances are the footprint will allow polypropylene, so use those where possible. That's my concession to audiophile parts.

In the PSU, look for words in the spec sheet like high ripple current and low ESR. Particular numbers aren't all that important since you're overbuilding the supply by commercial standards anyway.

Once you get your amp up and running you can mess with "audiophile quality" parts if you really think they are necessary. With standard parts your amp will be head and shoulders (and navel, too) above a standard AV receiver, I doubt you'll be willing to take it out of your system long enough to mess with it.
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Old 11th August 2013, 04:05 AM   #15
rif is offline rif  United States
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Quote:
Originally Posted by 6L6 View Post

I like the idea of salvaging the chassis. Can you give a rough measurement of the heatsinks? Alephs run hot.
I'm attaching 2 pix, one of the outside, one inside (we all like looking at equipment, right?).

The chassis is approx 16" wide, 13" deep, and 5.5" tall. The faceplate is 19" long.

I have no doubt that the existing heatsinks are inadequate (and in the wrong location) -- they're 4.75" x 4" x 2.25" (fin height).

It's got some huge caps inside - 4.5" high x 3"diam. 15,000uF 75VDC, 95VDC surge. But... they are probably 20 years old.

My plan is to use the chassis: remove existing heatsinks, buy ones the run the length on the sides, and cut some holes in the existing side walls to allow mounting parts to the heatsink.
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File Type: jpg IMG_3559.JPG (487.1 KB, 234 views)
File Type: jpg IMG_3561.JPG (499.5 KB, 229 views)
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Old 11th August 2013, 04:47 AM   #16
6L6 is offline 6L6  United States
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Yes, you will have to get some heatsinks the length of your chassis.

(Actually, you will probably have to get a pair per side, as it's much easier to find extrusions 6.5" wide than 13" wide.)

Make sure your heatsinks have fins that will be vertical. If they go the wrong way you will get it too hot. Salvage the posts, switch, lamp, jacks, etc... That stuff is expensive to replace.

Take a penny covered in a layer of paper towel dipped in acetone to rub off the silkscreen on your faceplate.
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Old 11th August 2013, 05:27 AM   #17
Sprags is offline Sprags  United States
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Quote:
Originally Posted by 6L6 View Post
No problem at all. In fact, making a blind hole with a hand tap, at the (small) depth we need, would be very difficult, due to the conical tip shape of the tap itself.
Unless you use a bottom tap or a thread mill and CNC mill the tapped holes
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Old 11th August 2013, 02:42 PM   #18
6L6 is offline 6L6  United States
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Yes. That's why I originally said;

Quote:
Originally Posted by 6L6 View Post
making a blind hole with a hand tap,
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Old 12th August 2013, 02:52 PM   #19
12B4A is offline 12B4A  United States
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Since rif asked in the OP about cost: assuming if one wanted to do "everything new and high quality" by sourcing the pcb, chassis, and back panel parts from diyAudio along with a transistor kit from h_a and digi-key sourced passives, the F5 comes in at $735 and the Aleph J at $800 in parts cost. This method is the closest to having a complete kit ready where all the builder has to do is stuff boards, solder wires, and turn screws.
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Old 12th August 2013, 10:48 PM   #20
jdg123 is offline jdg123  United States
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Default making it easy

Wow, that's pretty cool! About a quarter of the cost of new and easy enough to accomplish only thanks to Papa and diyAudio and 6L6 and didiet78 and several others on this thread:

Aleph J for Universal Mounting Spec

All should be acknowledged for their giving

I'd like to spend a bit of that figure on the transistor kit from h_a but I don't know how to go about doing that. It does not seem to be done through the diy store... Please assist?


Again, big thanks to all those who give of themselves to we who are just starting out; we'd never even "get off the line" without the help of the broad shouldered crowd. You inspire! You rock!
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