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#11 |
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diyAudio Member
Join Date: Feb 2010
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#12 |
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diyAudio Member
Join Date: Jan 2004
Location: Los Angeles
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Those are the correct r's for monitoring the bias current, actually, any one of the 11, 111, 12, 112 will work, with well matched parts, the volt drop across them will be the same, so you can just monitor one. If you have multiple dmms, monitor an n and a p simultaneouly, and with another monitor the dc on the output of the channel.
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Coiler |
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#13 | |
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diyAudio Member
Join Date: Jan 2004
Location: Los Angeles
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Quote:
How many sinks per channel are you going to use? They look like you will need two per channel. I dont think one per channel will work at a respectable bias level. When you build it, and are ready to bias it, just let your sinks decide. Slowly start to bias it, letting it warm up as you go. If your sinks get too hot, you can back off some. The biasing procedure is the funnest part of the build, and it offers a lot of flexibility to adapt to your sink capabilities.
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Coiler |
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#14 |
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diyAudio Member
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Ok Ive been reading about this PCB and have a little confusion as the wording used about it is diferent to nelsons PDF.
the F5c boards, will make the double output F5 Turbo, Ill end up with 50w F5 ? will it also make Version two ? can i make V2 work with this board ?
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www.Rixsta.co.uk Free music recorded by me/DIY pics +ebay-shop, amps=Zen V4, Zen-lightenment, Jean Hiraga 20w, F5
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#15 | |
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diyAudio Member
Join Date: Jan 2004
Location: Los Angeles
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Quote:
here is a pic of mine. It is not cascoded, and I did not install P3. Its not difficult to build it this way, or you can wait for turbo boards.
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Coiler |
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