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#281 |
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diyAudio Member
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Um.. your voiding your waranty and you dont want to scratch the cover? I'd look for maybe a couple of spots that might be glued (look near the middle of long seams) also sometimes there is small "catchs" made of plastic and molded as part of the case, these mate with similar on the opposite side of the case ( I've also seen 1 left hand threaded screw placed amongst all right hand threaded screws, the left hand thread one looks normal but is designed to break when you turn it).
I wouldnt be surprised to see at least one of these methods being used, these units dont usually get "fixed" so dont need to open. If there are "security" features built into the case it's for waranty purposes. zardoz |
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#282 |
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diyAudio Member
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dont forget to look for hidden screws as well..
if there are any small plastic or rubber pieces, or stickers on the back... poke around.. there may be screws underneath. |
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#283 |
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diyAudio Member
Join Date: Dec 2002
Location: VA, USA
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Thank you guys. I am fired up again. Will start with full speed tomorrow evening. I have to use force...and a lot of that. From the site below which describes every step of it - gave me the feeling that removing the back cover is one of the big hurdles. Anyway, wish me luck.
Check this out for a demo by SuperDave. http://www.csun.edu/~hbpsy028/projector/ |
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#284 |
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diyAudio Member
Join Date: Dec 2002
Location: VA, USA
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I couldn't wait till the evening, so i tried today morning. Finally I got the back open. But that would be wrong to say. Even though the the screws seemd to be holding the back cover, they were actually holding the front. There is a trick in opening the Kogi 15" LCD monitor. I don't know if anyone has faced this situation before or not. The front cover actually came out, and i was able to see the front screen of the lcd. There were 8 small latches/knobs which were located around 1.5" to 2" below each corner. The cover was neither glued, nor there are hidden screws.
I have the pictures and I will post it later....maybe in another thread. I haven't yet taken apart the whole LCD. I just took one step at a time. Tonight I will remove the whole thing. |
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#285 | |
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diyAudio Member
Join Date: Nov 2002
Location: USA
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Quote:
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#286 |
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diyAudio Member
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Have you guys found out the specs for the pin layouts yet if not I have them for the 32 pin,28pin and 20 pin I think.
I havent read thru the entire thread yet I got bored and researched a lil and found this page with a controller that has 3 connectors for 32 , 28, and 20. BTW Im new I hope these will help in some way. Well someone will have to tell me how to post these images that i have they are gif Doug |
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#287 |
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diyAudio Member
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This is the pics I wanted to put up previous post.
this had no price but it looked as if it was something you guys are looking for it supports sxga,xga,svga,vga lcd tft's and plasma. prolly high priced but the info about the pins maybe be of good use. ntsc/pal http://www.evdisplays.com/condore.htm |
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#288 |
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diyAudio Member
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#289 |
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diyAudio Member
Join Date: Dec 2002
Location: CT USA
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Doug,
Actually that board looks pretty promising, I saw something similar to that on earthlcd.com, but it was going for $399, I wonder how much that particular board costs, and if we would have to buy it in bulk, thye usually don't sell stuff like that in single quantities. Good find though. Rekr |
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#290 |
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diyAudio Member
Join Date: Dec 2002
Location: CT USA
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I emailed the rep from the company for those new contorller boards:
"Jason, I was looking for some information about the Condor 2 NTSC controller board, such as prices and minimum quantities for purchases? Doug Malick Jason Replied: We have a fifty piece minimum our pricing on the unit with cables is 135.00 " There you have it. If we can get 50 guys up in here to make a group buy that wouldn't be so bad. P.S. Kinda weird that both our names are Doug |
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