leeperry said:hey guys
I wanna order some Jyd150 AC for my SANYO Z3
but I keep reading about ppl having the bulb dying after 120/360/400 hours
anyone managed to get +1000H out of these ?
I might very well conduct a grouped order for a european forum, but I'd like to hear about better figures than 400 hours
Thanks
Hi Leeperry,
I might know about something located in here in europe. I have bought couple of items by them and that works better than well. I am a new member so I can ´t contact you via direct mail, but if you can contact me I can send you the info I got together with their lamps. I did couple of purchases by them already.
Yan
To ywh:
thanks for the picture and info about your 270W SHP burner. I will contact you soon.
thanks again
Joepapa said:
ok,
my e-mail is honza.tabor@gmail.com just in case that you can not view it directly. I will not send it through this forum, my contacts are public but I do not want to get myself in troubles with moderator of this forum because of doing commercial for some company. Thanks for understanding
YAN
Hi all,
A quick warning about projector modifications.....
A few days ago, my new bulb arrived from ywh for my Optoma EP745 DLP projector... Because I was in a rush to try out the new bulb, I'd forgotten that I'd bypassed the opto's on the lamp ballast board, and I went ahead and plugged in the small control cable between the ballast and the main board....
Normally, this wouldn't be a problem, because you should only ever need to bypass the pins on ONE side of EACH opto at a time, but I had stupidly decided to bridge wires across to other optos to try to get the ballast to start by itself (for earlier testing).
So, when I plugged the mains in, a loud BANG and a blue flash of light told me that all was not well! What had happend is that the power from the ballast found it's way to the main board via the control cable and had exploded / vaporized some of the PCB tracks!
This goes to show what the opto's actually do - it seems that most lamp ballasts are electrically "floating" with respect to the main board, so you might have the best part of 340V DC which needs to be isolated from the main PCB. (this makes them cheaper to make, but ballasts should always be isolated anyway)
This stupidity of mine killed the main DDP2000 driver / CPU chip on the projector. This chip now gets VERY hot, and will never work again.
Luckily, I managed to find another projector (Dell 3200MP) on eBay really cheap, but I will need a bulb for it.....
@YWH, do you think you might have a lamp housing / reflector for a Dell 3200MP? I can't seem to find a proper photo of the lamp yet, and I don't have the projector to confirm which lamp is correct? I think the Dell 3200MP is a Toshiba clone?
Most web sites show the same photo as this one.....
http://accessories.euro.dell.com/sna/productdetail.aspx?c=uk&l=en&s=dhs&cs=ukdhs1&sku=725-10028
....but I doubt that this is the correct photo, because it looks exactly the same as the one you sent me for the Sharp PJ!
I've attached a photo of another lamp I found on the web, which is supposed to be for the 3200MP. Does anyone here own a Dell projector, and do they know what the lamp looks like?
Thanks,
OzOnE.
A quick warning about projector modifications.....
A few days ago, my new bulb arrived from ywh for my Optoma EP745 DLP projector... Because I was in a rush to try out the new bulb, I'd forgotten that I'd bypassed the opto's on the lamp ballast board, and I went ahead and plugged in the small control cable between the ballast and the main board....
Normally, this wouldn't be a problem, because you should only ever need to bypass the pins on ONE side of EACH opto at a time, but I had stupidly decided to bridge wires across to other optos to try to get the ballast to start by itself (for earlier testing).
So, when I plugged the mains in, a loud BANG and a blue flash of light told me that all was not well! What had happend is that the power from the ballast found it's way to the main board via the control cable and had exploded / vaporized some of the PCB tracks!
This goes to show what the opto's actually do - it seems that most lamp ballasts are electrically "floating" with respect to the main board, so you might have the best part of 340V DC which needs to be isolated from the main PCB. (this makes them cheaper to make, but ballasts should always be isolated anyway)
This stupidity of mine killed the main DDP2000 driver / CPU chip on the projector. This chip now gets VERY hot, and will never work again.
Luckily, I managed to find another projector (Dell 3200MP) on eBay really cheap, but I will need a bulb for it.....
@YWH, do you think you might have a lamp housing / reflector for a Dell 3200MP? I can't seem to find a proper photo of the lamp yet, and I don't have the projector to confirm which lamp is correct? I think the Dell 3200MP is a Toshiba clone?
Most web sites show the same photo as this one.....
http://accessories.euro.dell.com/sna/productdetail.aspx?c=uk&l=en&s=dhs&cs=ukdhs1&sku=725-10028
....but I doubt that this is the correct photo, because it looks exactly the same as the one you sent me for the Sharp PJ!
I've attached a photo of another lamp I found on the web, which is supposed to be for the 3200MP. Does anyone here own a Dell projector, and do they know what the lamp looks like?
Thanks,
OzOnE.
Attachments
Hello ywh,
I put in another order for a bulb with 18wheeler. It should be under the name Warren. This is the second one I've ordered from you in the past 2 months. The first one is working fine so I wanted to get another one for when it burns out. Just wondering if you've sent it out yet? Thanks.
I put in another order for a bulb with 18wheeler. It should be under the name Warren. This is the second one I've ordered from you in the past 2 months. The first one is working fine so I wanted to get another one for when it burns out. Just wondering if you've sent it out yet? Thanks.
Hi all,
Please ignore my previous post about the lamp housing - The seller of the Dell 3200MP included the old lamp housing with it anyway, so I'll get and order a new JYd AC bulb from ywh for the PJ soon.
It's dissapointing that I blew up the Optoma, but the Dell has similar specs, and was a bargain price!
The only problem I might have is getting a new bulb to fit in the old lamp housing again, because the lamp housing is very short, and the lamp connector is directly behind the end of the bulb (just like the Sharp PG-M15X PJ)....
@ywh: Do you think it might be possible to shorten the bulbs somehow? Or have some shorter versions of the bulbs made? It might be possible to use a bulb which doesn't have the metal part on, but then I guess it would be harder to cement / install?
Thanks,
OzOnE.
P.S: In case anyone was wondering - the original lamp in the Dell 3200MP is an OSRAM VIP R 150/P16 (basically a 150W UHP type - the same as in the Sharp PG-M15X PJ). The bulb itself is the same as in the Sharp, but the actual housing used is different.
Also, the lamp DOES look similar to the one in this photo....
http://accessories.euro.dell.com/sna/productdetail.aspx?c=uk&l=en&s=dhs&cs=ukdhs1&sku=725-10028
....but is NOT the same, as the connector on the 3200MP lamp is directly behind the bulb.
Please ignore my previous post about the lamp housing - The seller of the Dell 3200MP included the old lamp housing with it anyway, so I'll get and order a new JYd AC bulb from ywh for the PJ soon.
It's dissapointing that I blew up the Optoma, but the Dell has similar specs, and was a bargain price!
The only problem I might have is getting a new bulb to fit in the old lamp housing again, because the lamp housing is very short, and the lamp connector is directly behind the end of the bulb (just like the Sharp PG-M15X PJ)....
@ywh: Do you think it might be possible to shorten the bulbs somehow? Or have some shorter versions of the bulbs made? It might be possible to use a bulb which doesn't have the metal part on, but then I guess it would be harder to cement / install?
Thanks,
OzOnE.
P.S: In case anyone was wondering - the original lamp in the Dell 3200MP is an OSRAM VIP R 150/P16 (basically a 150W UHP type - the same as in the Sharp PG-M15X PJ). The bulb itself is the same as in the Sharp, but the actual housing used is different.
Also, the lamp DOES look similar to the one in this photo....
http://accessories.euro.dell.com/sna/productdetail.aspx?c=uk&l=en&s=dhs&cs=ukdhs1&sku=725-10028
....but is NOT the same, as the connector on the 3200MP lamp is directly behind the bulb.
Ywh: I'd like to know if the bulb you sell will work with a 3M MP8749 projector. A photo of a 3M replacement bulb assembly is here: http://www.purelandsupply.com/item.jhtml;$sessionid$5GF3EKAAABHKTTZENUFHBMWPERWRJPX0?UCIDs=714694%7C1234890&PRID=1415704
Thanks.
Thanks.
replacement bulb for SP4800
ywh: I have looked here through the thread and see that you carry a lamp replacement for the SP4800 / X1 from Infocus. I pulled my bulb and it is a SHP41. My bulb popped/shattered when it went bad. The replacement you offer is the reflector/bulb assembly, correct? Please email me with your answer and ordering details. Thanks for this great service. You should create an ebay store or something
ywh: I have looked here through the thread and see that you carry a lamp replacement for the SP4800 / X1 from Infocus. I pulled my bulb and it is a SHP41. My bulb popped/shattered when it went bad. The replacement you offer is the reflector/bulb assembly, correct? Please email me with your answer and ordering details. Thanks for this great service. You should create an ebay store or something
Re: replacement bulb for SP4800
Can I quote myself? Sorry about asking those questions without reading through all 1000+ posts
I think I understand how to order. Anyone here successfully replace the 4800/X1 lamp? I see bits and pieces but I guess I'm missing some detail on how to get the old bulb out (big ceramic base) and rewire and set the new bulb (muffler compouds?). And does it work for the projector? As my bulb exploded, There is not much glass left to reference for reassembly. And I'm guessing I just got a healthy does of mercury vapor, too. Oh well, didn't really need those brain cells anyway
CHEV 67 said:ywh: I have looked here through the thread and see that you carry a lamp replacement for the SP4800 / X1 from Infocus. I pulled my bulb and it is a SHP41. My bulb popped/shattered when it went bad. The replacement you offer is the reflector/bulb assembly, correct? Please email me with your answer and ordering details. Thanks for this great service. You should create an ebay store or something
Can I quote myself? Sorry about asking those questions without reading through all 1000+ posts
I think I understand how to order. Anyone here successfully replace the 4800/X1 lamp? I see bits and pieces but I guess I'm missing some detail on how to get the old bulb out (big ceramic base) and rewire and set the new bulb (muffler compouds?). And does it work for the projector? As my bulb exploded, There is not much glass left to reference for reassembly. And I'm guessing I just got a healthy does of mercury vapor, too. Oh well, didn't really need those brain cells anyway
Hi, CHEV 67....
I can't remember if ywh was offering the whole reflector with a bulb, but I know that from the standard bulb types that ywh offers, you will need to order a "single-ended 150 Watt JYd DC bulb".
By far the best thing I've found for installing a new bulb is called "fire cement" here in the UK. I bought a small tub of XL Fire Cement, which looks like this.....
http://www.purimachos.demon.co.uk/FIRE-CEMENT.htm
This is very easy to apply to the bulb, as it stays like a sort of clay paste when it's in the tub. It sets / dries fairly quickly, and when it heats up, it sets even more, but is quite easy to scrape away if you need to change the bulb again.
With DC bulbs, the polarity of the connections needs to be correct. I've posted about it here......
http://www.diyaudio.com/forums/showthread.php?postid=1016379#post1016379
ie. The wire from the "square" hole on the Infocus lamp connector should connect to the positive connection on the new bulb (screw-thread / "back" of bulb).
As I also said in the above post though, when I tried a JYd DC bulb on an Infocus X1, it worked fine for a while, but failed to start when I tried it the next morning. The bulb had a crack right along it, but this was most definitely because I got loads of the plaster stuff on the glass part of the bulb when installing it (using the plaster from ywh). You shouldn't get any contaminants on the new bulb - not even fingerprints.
This is another reason to try something similar to Fire Cement to secure the bulb, because it doesn't run all over the place!
To order a new bulb, just check out 18wheeler's small page here for prices / shipping.....
http://diypro.us/
Then send PayPal payment (as a "service" or something) to the diyproj address quoting the type of bulb in the PayPal message.
OzOnE.
P.S. I was also wondering about that nasty mercury stuff in that Dell PJ I've just bought (exploded bulb). I hope it doesn't have too much mercury floating around!
I can't remember if ywh was offering the whole reflector with a bulb, but I know that from the standard bulb types that ywh offers, you will need to order a "single-ended 150 Watt JYd DC bulb".
By far the best thing I've found for installing a new bulb is called "fire cement" here in the UK. I bought a small tub of XL Fire Cement, which looks like this.....
http://www.purimachos.demon.co.uk/FIRE-CEMENT.htm
This is very easy to apply to the bulb, as it stays like a sort of clay paste when it's in the tub. It sets / dries fairly quickly, and when it heats up, it sets even more, but is quite easy to scrape away if you need to change the bulb again.
With DC bulbs, the polarity of the connections needs to be correct. I've posted about it here......
http://www.diyaudio.com/forums/showthread.php?postid=1016379#post1016379
ie. The wire from the "square" hole on the Infocus lamp connector should connect to the positive connection on the new bulb (screw-thread / "back" of bulb).
As I also said in the above post though, when I tried a JYd DC bulb on an Infocus X1, it worked fine for a while, but failed to start when I tried it the next morning. The bulb had a crack right along it, but this was most definitely because I got loads of the plaster stuff on the glass part of the bulb when installing it (using the plaster from ywh). You shouldn't get any contaminants on the new bulb - not even fingerprints.
This is another reason to try something similar to Fire Cement to secure the bulb, because it doesn't run all over the place!
To order a new bulb, just check out 18wheeler's small page here for prices / shipping.....
http://diypro.us/
Then send PayPal payment (as a "service" or something) to the diyproj address quoting the type of bulb in the PayPal message.
OzOnE.
P.S. I was also wondering about that nasty mercury stuff in that Dell PJ I've just bought (exploded bulb). I hope it doesn't have too much mercury floating around!
Thanks OzOnE,
I read more recently that ywh actually has SHP bulbs from another assembly that will work. I think that would be a better fit. How did you get the existing bulb base (ceramic) out of the reflector? I see some have to scrape and others soak in water to dissolve. How was the X1 bulb?
Thanks for the advice on the fire cement. I was not looking forward to the troubles others seem to be having with the plaster.
BTW, no fears about the mercury in your bulb. As soon as it is open it evaporates. Since I was in the room when it popped, I'm sure my wife and I got a nice dose of vaporized mercury. Oh well, I used to play with the stuff when I was a kid. So the damage is already done.
I read more recently that ywh actually has SHP bulbs from another assembly that will work. I think that would be a better fit. How did you get the existing bulb base (ceramic) out of the reflector? I see some have to scrape and others soak in water to dissolve. How was the X1 bulb?
Thanks for the advice on the fire cement. I was not looking forward to the troubles others seem to be having with the plaster.
BTW, no fears about the mercury in your bulb. As soon as it is open it evaporates. Since I was in the room when it popped, I'm sure my wife and I got a nice dose of vaporized mercury. Oh well, I used to play with the stuff when I was a kid. So the damage is already done.
Hi OzOnE_2k3 !
sorry for later Reply.can you give me a pic of your DDP2000 driver / CPU chip, maybe I can find it.
about Dell 3200MP, if no pic, this is a problem,I must believe the shop, when the say "this is", I believe "this is", and you believe "this is" too, some risk.
can you give me a pic of the cavity that set the lamp cage, I can image the lamp cage.
and send a pic of your JYd DC bulb to me,email.
Hi sabrex !
I have sent you bulb
Hi en2ec
the lamp is NSH200w, it is not easy to replace.there are some risk.
Hi CHEV 67
your lamp is 150w shp, I have bran-new shp bulb, without reflector.
price is $100 each. include shipping and cement.
it is the best bulb,
Hi chevy1965usa
I have no your lamp,sorry
sorry for later Reply.can you give me a pic of your DDP2000 driver / CPU chip, maybe I can find it.
about Dell 3200MP, if no pic, this is a problem,I must believe the shop, when the say "this is", I believe "this is", and you believe "this is" too, some risk.
can you give me a pic of the cavity that set the lamp cage, I can image the lamp cage.
and send a pic of your JYd DC bulb to me,email.
Hi sabrex !
I have sent you bulb
Hi en2ec
the lamp is NSH200w, it is not easy to replace.there are some risk.
Hi CHEV 67
your lamp is 150w shp, I have bran-new shp bulb, without reflector.
price is $100 each. include shipping and cement.
it is the best bulb,
Hi chevy1965usa
I have no your lamp,sorry
Hi, ywh,
Thanks for the quick shipping with the bulb btw! The Optoma is now broken and I'll just sell it as faulty, but I'm sure I'll find a use for the bulb anyway.
Also, I found a brand-new lamp for the Dell 3200MP on eBay which was quite cheap, so I won't be needing a lamp for it...
But, my brother has just bought a Dell 3100MP and might still need a lamp if we can't find one on eBay for it.
The DDP2000 chip looks like the one on this page....
http://www.dlp.com/dlp_technology/dlp_technology_products.asp
But, it's a BGA chip with around 562 "solder balls" on it. I've got a hot-air soldering machine, but I don't think it would be worth me even trying to re-solder a new BGA chip! Thanks for your help though.
Are you able to get hold of some of these chips? I would be very interested if you are able to get certain chips because they are usually VERY difficult to get hold of (especially in small quantities.)
OzOnE.
Thanks for the quick shipping with the bulb btw! The Optoma is now broken and I'll just sell it as faulty, but I'm sure I'll find a use for the bulb anyway.
Also, I found a brand-new lamp for the Dell 3200MP on eBay which was quite cheap, so I won't be needing a lamp for it...
But, my brother has just bought a Dell 3100MP and might still need a lamp if we can't find one on eBay for it.
The DDP2000 chip looks like the one on this page....
http://www.dlp.com/dlp_technology/dlp_technology_products.asp
But, it's a BGA chip with around 562 "solder balls" on it. I've got a hot-air soldering machine, but I don't think it would be worth me even trying to re-solder a new BGA chip! Thanks for your help though.
Are you able to get hold of some of these chips? I would be very interested if you are able to get certain chips because they are usually VERY difficult to get hold of (especially in small quantities.)
OzOnE.
ywh said:Hi OzOnE_2k3 !
sorry for later Reply.can you give me a pic of your DDP2000 driver / CPU chip, maybe I can find it.
about Dell 3200MP, if no pic, this is a problem,I must believe the shop, when the say "this is", I believe "this is", and you believe "this is" too, some risk.
can you give me a pic of the cavity that set the lamp cage, I can image the lamp cage.
and send a pic of your JYd DC bulb to me,email.
Hi sabrex !
I have sent you bulb
Hi en2ec
the lamp is NSH200w, it is not easy to replace.there are some risk.
Hi CHEV 67
your lamp is 150w shp, I have bran-new shp bulb, without reflector.
price is $100 each. include shipping and cement.
it is the best bulb,
Hi chevy1965usa
I have no your lamp,sorry
ywh,
Sorry I haven't purchased like this before. Do I pay you by Paypal through 18 Wheelers website? Or do I have to go through Moneybookers? If I go through 18 wheeler, do I email him the type of bulb (SHP isn't on his website) and contact info or do you want an email directly to you?
Thanks for your help. You can email me at redcboats@yahoo.com with the details if you like.
Hi,
I have been searching for a thread like this for weeks! My big question: is it possible to take the lamp unit apart, take out the failing HID bulb, and replace it with a cheap model? This forum suggests it can be done, but a number of important parameters are mentioned: AC/DC bulb AC/DC ballast, solenoid vs electronic ballast? I have ao a Hitachi CL-P 850, with a defective bulb, which to MHO is a DC bulb. The casing label reads: 7Y4985, 260W, 40 Volts. The electrode configuration is consistent with a DC bulb: a very big, fat positive electrode vs a tiny one on the opposite side.
Suggestions?
Thanks in advance
I have been searching for a thread like this for weeks! My big question: is it possible to take the lamp unit apart, take out the failing HID bulb, and replace it with a cheap model? This forum suggests it can be done, but a number of important parameters are mentioned: AC/DC bulb AC/DC ballast, solenoid vs electronic ballast? I have ao a Hitachi CL-P 850, with a defective bulb, which to MHO is a DC bulb. The casing label reads: 7Y4985, 260W, 40 Volts. The electrode configuration is consistent with a DC bulb: a very big, fat positive electrode vs a tiny one on the opposite side.
Suggestions?
Thanks in advance
Hitachi CP-L850W
Hi Haver1 ,
You got it, shes a DC lamp if the electrodes are of different size.
Is the projector it this one? > http://www.projectorcentral.com/Hitachi-CP-L850W.htm
Check with YWH, he can tell you a little more about what you need.
Hi Haver1 ,
You got it, shes a DC lamp if the electrodes are of different size.
Is the projector it this one? > http://www.projectorcentral.com/Hitachi-CP-L850W.htm
Check with YWH, he can tell you a little more about what you need.
Hi, haver1,
There is a good page with some cross-reference lamps here.....
http://www.beamerlamp.be/kk_500087.html
.....but it seems that you've already identified that the original lamp is a 260W metal halide type.
Although it's very likely you have a DC bulb / ballast, it's possible that some AC bulbs might still have strange electrode configurations? It probably is DC though by the sound of it.
The only way to make sure is to either measure the voltage on a running lamp (AFTER it has ignited!!!), look at the ballast for clues, or see if it says "DC" in the user guide etc?
For metal halide, I think you'll need a "JYs" type replacement bulb, but I don't know if ywh has a bulb of 260 Watts or more?
To be honest, the Hitachi is quite old, and you can pick up some nice projectors VERY cheaply on eBay now - That's if you don't mind take a chance on a projector which just "needs a lamp", and doesn't have anything wrong with the rest of it. Plus, you ideally want the old reflector with it.
The main problem I've had with fitting a replacement bulb is when you have a projector with a very small lamp housing and it might be difficult to get the new bulb in the correct "focus point" without the back of the bulb hitting the lamp housing / fan / shorting out etc.
But, if you have a projector with a fair amount of space behind the reflector, I highly recommend using something like that "fire cement" stuff to install the replacement (mentioned a few posts up).
I have a Sharp DLP projector which is working fine with a JYd AC bulb from ywh, but it's not as bright as it should be because I had to move the bulb forward in the reflector to stop it hitting the cooling fan. I also had to chop off the last part of the screw thread on the bulb (a last resort - NOT recommended!)
Other than that, the bulbs from ywh are cheap enough to warrant trying one anyway and they are easy to install with the slightly bigger projectors and the right cement.
OzOnE.
There is a good page with some cross-reference lamps here.....
http://www.beamerlamp.be/kk_500087.html
.....but it seems that you've already identified that the original lamp is a 260W metal halide type.
Although it's very likely you have a DC bulb / ballast, it's possible that some AC bulbs might still have strange electrode configurations? It probably is DC though by the sound of it.
The only way to make sure is to either measure the voltage on a running lamp (AFTER it has ignited!!!), look at the ballast for clues, or see if it says "DC" in the user guide etc?
For metal halide, I think you'll need a "JYs" type replacement bulb, but I don't know if ywh has a bulb of 260 Watts or more?
To be honest, the Hitachi is quite old, and you can pick up some nice projectors VERY cheaply on eBay now - That's if you don't mind take a chance on a projector which just "needs a lamp", and doesn't have anything wrong with the rest of it. Plus, you ideally want the old reflector with it.
The main problem I've had with fitting a replacement bulb is when you have a projector with a very small lamp housing and it might be difficult to get the new bulb in the correct "focus point" without the back of the bulb hitting the lamp housing / fan / shorting out etc.
But, if you have a projector with a fair amount of space behind the reflector, I highly recommend using something like that "fire cement" stuff to install the replacement (mentioned a few posts up).
I have a Sharp DLP projector which is working fine with a JYd AC bulb from ywh, but it's not as bright as it should be because I had to move the bulb forward in the reflector to stop it hitting the cooling fan. I also had to chop off the last part of the screw thread on the bulb (a last resort - NOT recommended!)
Other than that, the bulbs from ywh are cheap enough to warrant trying one anyway and they are easy to install with the slightly bigger projectors and the right cement.
OzOnE.
Hi folks,
It is for me a real welcome to have so many dedicated answers to my first post on this forum. I Like it!!!!!!!Sounds like a good cooperation on tackling difficult issues. At least I will go for it.
Thanks!
I will post pictures of the dissasembkly of the Hitachi lamp. I will also try to get measurements on its operational characteristics.
Harrie
It is for me a real welcome to have so many dedicated answers to my first post on this forum. I Like it!!!!!!!Sounds like a good cooperation on tackling difficult issues. At least I will go for it.
Thanks!
I will post pictures of the dissasembkly of the Hitachi lamp. I will also try to get measurements on its operational characteristics.
Harrie
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