I got my new lamp. It is for commercial projection use. people use it to replace the

[OzOnE_2k3]

Oh, i see, you mean bypassing the fans too! I'm not quite sure about that one because you'd need to send the RPM pulses to the mainboard to keep it from shutting down again. You could try connecting the RPM wire on one of the other fans to the connector where the removed fan went (PSU fan if it has three wires)??

Right, here goes.... What does everyone think about possibly building our own Dynamic Iris for fitting to you projectors?? I'm pretty good with PIC programming, and can simulate the motors etc. on the PC. I was thinking of using a small stepper motor, but you could even use a voice coil motor if it was powerfull enough.

The only other problem (other than the fact that I'm useless at metalwork), is how to guage the average brightness of the video image, and how to switch the iris to each video input. Of course, on modern projectors, this is all done digitally, but I don't think we'll have that option somehow!

Perhaps this subject is a new-thread starter? Or, has anyone seen any other threads about building a Dynamic Iris?

OzOnE.

[digital_dreamer]

As regards the pj receiving the "lamp lit" signal before the "lamp on" signal is sent, I suppose one could reroute the "lamp on" LED signal from the pj to the LED side of the "lamp on" optocoupler, after severing the original PCB trace coming from the ballast.

Of course, this all depends on the behavior of the pj and its design.

regards,
MAJ

[OzOnE_2k3]

Hi, digital_dreamer,

Yes, you could feasibly connect the LED side of the optos together so that the "lamp on" signal would directly drive the "lamp lit" opto. You could also cut the trace to the original "lamp on" opto, to make sure the drive to the LED was the same.

I'd imagine most projectors would work fine like this, provided the timing of the signals wasn't more complicated than this of course.

Some projectors might have complicated ways of detecting the lamp current and certain error signals. This would be difficult to bypass.

[ywh]

Hi OzOnE_2k3
yes, 18wheeler have the 150W ballasts too, that is 160w and JYS lamp,but the lamp is double end, have too metal end, you need take off one metal end.can you do spot welding?

or I order other and single eng jys lamp and ballast for you. this have 4 pins like yours,I think that is easy to replace.
http://www.diyaudio.com/forums/attac...amp=1120475610


yes , 250W ballast an e-ballast too big, if you have space that is good way.

[throwit]

hi all and thanks !

OzOnE...yeah, i saw those laminas early in my intertravels, but rather ruthlessly discounted them because i think that more can be achieved with those luxeon leds (app1000lm per 40mmx40mm), though i'm certainly not above being corrected !

i'd be quite happy to run little leds or resistors in place of (i.e. plugged into the fan connectors on main board) the non-psu fans, as long as those resistors (if used) don't cook or cook anything else

i suppose the lcd cooling fans will be obsolete if the lcds are being lit by uv/ir free light source ?


it is possible that the sensing circuits may be so clever as to spot a premature 'lamp on' signal, but i think in the case of my lp240 and lp250 at least, there is a three to five minute delay in collection by the board, of the lamp on signal (otherwise known as the initialisation period) for precisely the reason that (in the case of my infoci) the projector lamp has a chance to provide said signal to a waiting board, without the synchonisation issues that may have arisen from the board sensing pre startup signal - lamp igniting signal - lamp lit signal

phew, did that make sense ?


my lp running without a lamp, it really is working...wuhooo !

[throwit]

...and the stunning image on my hand, by torchlit projector !

the image did move, so i know it was working !

[OzOnE_2k3]

hi ywh,

Is the photo in your last post the newer 160W ballast?

Do you still have the other ballasts available? (photo attached)

The above 160W ballast looks fine though if it's the newer type.

I wouldn't know how to remove the spot welding on the metal tabs, and my original bulb is only around 65mm. I could probably fit a new bulb with a maximum length of around 90mm though.

Double-ended should be fine, but I'm not sure about the metal tabs?

OzOnE.

[OzOnE_2k3]

Here's a photo of my old lamp, it's an Osram VIP 273/46.

The bulb itself looks very broken to me? I can't test the lamp because obviously the ballast is broken too....

[OzOnE_2k3]

Excellent news throwit!

Does your projector only enable the LCD's after the warm-up period?

Can you get any decent size of image when using the torch (experimental I take it!)?

You shouldn't need to have resistors in place of the fans in most cases (AFAIK). Most projectors I've seen have three-wire fans, with the separate wire for RPM detection. You'll need to fake this signal somehow to stop the PJ shutting down.

Although, if you have any two-wire fans that you're sure you won't need, just try unplugging them and see if the PJ still runs.

EDIT: P.S. Where did you get your torch, is it the white-LED one?

[OzOnE_2k3]

Just found the specs for the Osram 273/45 (note: not the 273/46) in a very handy pdf file (page 16).....

http://www.osram.fr/downloads/catalo...Program-PO.pdf

Osram VIP R 273/45....
Watts = 270
Volts = 38
Amps = 7.1
Lumens = 17000 !!!
Colour Temp = 5400
Arc gap = 1.9mm
Hours = 1000
Length = 73mm

These specs seem the same as the 273/46 which I want to replace (I'm replacing the ballast too). It also looks exactly the same.

I thought these specs might prove useful to someone?

This next pdf file shows that all VIP lamps are AC apparently (page 2), as well as some health advice about the Mercury content!.....

http://www.sylvania.com/content/disp...x?id=003677441

And.... www.donsbulbs.com is a great source for possibly finding the type of lamp in your projector or it's cross-reference. It doesn't give voltages and whether AC or DC though.

The type of lamp in my brother's Sanyo PLC-XP10N is a SID lamp, would this commonly be AC or DC?

Another nice pdf here with very detailed info about discharge lamps, some Etendue stuff, and some good Philips ballast info.....

http://ej.iop.org/links/q24/WCJXVThT.../d5_17_R01.pdf