I got my new lamp. It is for commercial projection use. people use it to replace the - Page 51 - diyAudio
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Old 28th June 2006, 01:30 PM   #501
ywh is offline ywh
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Hi OzOnE_2k3 ,you are great!!
do yu have some other file abot the Eballasts, lamps, I need this Information.

and this is my Eballast, is there same connection like your Eballast ?
do you have a PIC of your Eballast?
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Old 28th June 2006, 01:33 PM   #502
ywh is offline ywh
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other way
this a especial lamp,can run in Millihenry ballast.
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Old 28th June 2006, 04:27 PM   #503
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Hi ywh,
I just bought a 3M MP-7730, I'm looking at the replacement pdf, I'm just verifying that it needs a Jyd150/A.C. I'll order as soon as I know this, and how long does shipping usually take? A couple weeks or?
Thanks much!
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Old 28th June 2006, 04:30 PM   #504
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Hi ywh,

Here's a few things about ballast opto-couplers that some people might find useful....

I have a Sanyo PLC-XW15 projector which has been sitting here for months. It has a Philips ballast though, a photo is attached (can you attach more than one file?)....

The projector itself is faulty because the main BGA scaler chip (Pixelworks) had to be de-soldered from the board. The previous owner had tried to re-solder it before for some reason (probably bad connections), so now, I can't re-solder it without getting a new chip, or getting the old one "re-balled". I'll probably sell the projector on eBay again!!

I was able to test the ballast though by shorting the optocoupler (like you do on your ballast). To find out which pins I needed to short, I first hunted down the datasheet for the optocouplers, then traced which pins on the connector joined to which pins on the optocouplers. Please note that not all optocouplers have the same pinout!! The pins on each end are sometimes swapped....

The Sanyo projector (Philips ballast) has the code SFH6106 on the optocouplers, so I just did a Google search to try to find the datasheet. The SFH6106 is made by many manufacturers, but here's a datasheet from Vishay.....

http://www.vishay.com/docs/83666/83666.pdf

You can see that all an optocoupler (or "opto-isolator" or "photocoupler") is, is simply an LED and a phototransistor separated by a gap. This effectively isolates the high voltages of the ballast from the rest of the projector's electronics. This is important, because not only is an e-ballast very electrically "noisy", the ground levels are often at a different voltage to the rest of the projector, so it's quite difficult to connect anything between them. Optocouplers are the safest way of sending signals to and from the ballast.

So, once you've found the pinout of the optocouplers, you can see that where the LED side (Anode and Cathode) connects to the cable from the projector, this is a signal TO the ballast....

And where the phototransistor side (Emitter and Collector) connects to the cable from the projector, this is signal TO the projector.

If you just want to get a ballast to start, you should be able to short the Emitter and Collector pins of the optocoupler(s) on the ballast "side".

If you're trying to retrofit a new ballast / lamp into a working projector, on MOST projector's, you should be able to just short-circuit the Emitter and Collector pins of the optocoupler(s) (going towards the cable) to tell the projector that the "lamp is lit" or "lamp is OK". The problem is finding which optocoupler does what when there are more than two of them!

If you can find the service manual for your projector, then you're very lucky (InFocus X1 is easy to find), if not, then a bit of guesswork is needed...

You could just try shorting the Emitter and Collector of each optocoupler and see what happens, but some signals might be "error" signals to the projector, so it will just shut down.

It helped me alot by soldering LED's between the Anode and Cathode pins of the optocouplers on my Proxima DS1. You should really have an Oscilloscope for this type of stuff, but mine broke a long time ago! xeye: I will attach a photo of the Proxima DS1's optocouplers in the next post.

btw: Anode = Positive,
Cathode = Negative...

If the LED's don't light up when you turn the projector on, you might need to solder one leg of the LED's "before" the resistor which is usually in series with the optocoupler (see photo in next post). That's assuming your LED's can take the current!

After I'd done this, my LED's then lit up when the projector was started. I have two pairs of optocouplers on my Proxima, but I could see that while one LED turned on solidly, the other one seemed to flash in sympathy with the colour-wheel (got quicker faster until almost lit solidly). This is obviously the "sync" signal to the ballast. The ballast needs this so it can syncronize the pulses of voltage to the ballast in time with the colour-wheel and the "frames" of video on the screen. Otherwise, you'd get flickering effects and "tearing" of the video.

AFAIK, some LCD projectors have a "sync" signal to the ballast, but I think it's more important on DLP projectors.

So, for the moment, I didn't need to use the sync signal on my Proxima, as I'm intending to fit a new ballast and power supply to it (the old one is beyond repair, I also want cheap lamps!). I might need the sync signal for the new ballast though, so this is handy to know.

@ywh, here's a photo of the Philips ballast from the Sanyo PLC-XW15.....
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Old 28th June 2006, 04:38 PM   #505
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Here's a closeup of the optocouplers on power supply / e-ballast of the Proxima DS1. Hopefully this will explain what I did more easily.

The RED "A C" or "C A" are the LED side of the optocouplers, the GREEN "C E" or "E C" are the phototransistor side of the optocouplers.

I've also drawn in some of the PCB tracks (dark green) to make the connections clearer. The yellow LED is connected to the "sync" signal optocoupler PC1 (with resistor R1 bypassed).

The LED for the "lamp on" signal (normally on PC2) has been removed to make the photo clearer.

You can see that I've soldered across the "C E" pins of PC3 to force the projector to stay on ("lamp lit" signal to projector) as I intend to replace the ballast anyway. Now that I've found these signals, I could actually just chop the connector off the old ballast and short the wires together instead.....
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Old 28th June 2006, 04:43 PM   #506
ywh is offline ywh
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Hi Mclorkus !
about A couple weeks

Hi OzOnE_2k3
think! the PDF. is good.
I keep your PIC in my mobile telephone,
mayby I can find the same ballast when I am shopping.
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Old 28th June 2006, 04:43 PM   #507
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Oh, I forgot to add.... While I can short the pins on the Proxima DS1 ballast to force the projector on (old ballast broken), when I tried this with the Philips ballast from the Sanyo projector, the lamp lit for about 3 seconds, but went out again. This is probably because it requires a sync signal too.

I'm not sure which optocoupler does what yet, or what the signals are because the Sanyo projector itself is broken (opposite problem to the Proxima!). You can buy service manuals online for the Sanyo for $10, but I'm probably going to just sell this one anyway. I couldn't find a service manual or diagram for the Proxima DS1 though (it's quite old).

OzOnE.
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Old 28th June 2006, 04:49 PM   #508
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Quote:
Originally posted by OzOnE_2k3
Here's a closeup of the optocouplers on power supply / e-ballast of the Proxima DS1. Hopefully this will explain what I did more easily.

The RED "A C" or "C A" are the LED side of the optocouplers, the GREEN "C E" or "E C" are the phototransistor side of the optocouplers.

I've also drawn in some of the PCB tracks (dark green) to make the connections clearer. The yellow LED is connected to the "sync" signal optocoupler PC1 (with resistor R1 bypassed).

The LED for the "lamp on" signal (normally on PC2) has been removed to make the photo clearer.

You can see that I've soldered across the "C E" pins of PC3 to force the projector to stay on ("lamp lit" signal to projector) as I intend to replace the ballast anyway. Now that I've found these signals, I could actually just chop the connector off the old ballast and short the wires together instead.....


look my post. I know soldered too in other ballast.
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Old 28th June 2006, 04:59 PM   #509
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@ywh, I'm probably going to sell the Sanyo projector (Philips ballast), but I need a lamp and ballast for the Proxima DS1. The original lamp is 270W but the projector is only rated at 600 ANSI lumens!. This is surprising, as the optics actually look quite good.

Do you think a 150W lamp and ballast would be good enough when using the projector in the dark? I'm willing to try it anyway.

Do you have a total price for the 150W lamp and ballast including the postage to the UK? I can send payment to 18wheeler once I have the total price. (don't mind JYd / JYs).

Also, my brother owns a bar in Thailand, and needs a lamp for a Sanyo PLC-XP10 projector. This is a 160W Metal Halide lamp, but I'm not sure if it's AC or DC as my brother doesn't want to open the projector at the moment because of the World Cup!

I can't find the XP10 in the replacement datasheet. It should be JYs (Metal Halide), is that right? Does anyone possibly know which lamp I need?

Also, what would be the total price for either one or two lamps for the Sanyo PLC-XP10, plus postage to Thailand?

Thanks,
OzOnE.
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Old 28th June 2006, 05:06 PM   #510
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@ywh, I saw in your previous post about soldering the optocouplers.... I just thought I'd explain a bit more about optocouplers, so people might be able to use the information with their projectors.

Regards,
OzOnE.
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