I got my new lamp. It is for commercial projection use. people use it to replace the

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Hi folks
Finally read every post in this topic :dodgy:...
But it paid off!

I am looking for several replacementlamps and the funny thing is that some of those which I need allready came above some pages back by other members. Sadly there were no closing answers on which lamp should be used.

Benq PB6100:
everywhere I look on the internet it sais that it's 200W UHP, but some say it's NSH?

Hitachi S830:
It's 150w and 60v, I don't know if it's ac or dc. The original lamp still works so I cant take it out to have a look.

Infocus lp735:
Also 150w, I hink it's ac but not sure (also working lamp, so I cant check yet)

Hitachi L850W:
Is 260w, dont know ac or dc but can check this tommorow.

Polaroid Polaview 201:
250w, think ac but I'm not sure (also cant check).

I'm a little confused with the voltage matter too. I thought lamps like hqi, uhp,... all worked on +- 90V. I have a 150w uhp lampmodule (hitachi 940) and at the bottom of the module is written: 150w / 100V.
Can anyone help me with this matter?
I'm also making a diy beamer and would like to order the 250w YWd AC, but I dont know if I can use this with an 250w HQI ballast?
 
I'll try to take pictures of the lamp of the benq and hitachi 850 (these are the only lamps who are allready broke).

Could you maybe help me out with the whole voltage matter? :D
This is the case:

I'm making a diybeamer with a 15,4" widescreen tft. I was planning of using a big 400w HQI (diameter 6cm, arc = about 25mm). But now that I see this topic I think it's way better to use a lamp with a short arc.

Do you have a 400w bulb with a short arc that will work on a 400w electronic ballast?

Or do you think if I use a 250w bulb with a short arc it will give almost the same result as with the 400w hqi I was planing of using first? And would this 250w work on a normal 250w hqi ballast?

thx!
 
the whole voltage matter your said is operational voltage, there is othere matter, the start-up voltage.
so my bulb can not work on a 400w electronic ballast of HQI.
I have other type bulb, it can work on a 400w electromagnetic ballast of HQI, but not the 400w electronic ballast of HQI. look the pic.

the bulb still in the reflector is a DC super high-pressure mercury lamp
,it is NSH, but my 200w jyd work on ballast of NSH is not well. there are some risk.

Broken lamp is metal halide lamp, and you can test the operational voltage , DC or AC.
http://www.aboutprojectors.com/Hitachi-CP-L850W-projector.html
http://www.projectorcentral.com/Hitachi-CP-L850W.htm

And this is cheaper:http://cgi.ebay.com/HITACHI-DT00161...7337721QQihZ007QQcategoryZ71583QQcmdZViewItem
 

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Hi ! part2wanksta

keep the original cement when you scrape it off, mix it with some water, you can used it again maybe

Hi ! elektron!

about the reflectors , I have paraboloid / ellipsoidal / spherical, the spherical is for DIY projector, paraboloid and ellipsoidal is for commercial projector

spherical
 

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Okay, for my diy beamer I will use a spherical reflector. I allread have a few like this. Will a 70mm (diameter) spherical reflector work good with the 250w lamp? And should I use a condensor lense (like on your lighthouse picture)? Or is that not needed with a 15,4" tft.

Some other important questions:

- Can I use this 250w lamp with my one non-electronic 250w ballast?
- How much will the bulb cost
 
yes!
70mm (diameter) spherical reflector work good with the 250w lamp!
but the single LCD system is not brighter, your DIY is a single LCD system
, I suggest you choose the 400w bulb.

you use this 250w lamp with your one non-electronic 250w ballast if the V is 220v .

you can get a 70w~100w non-electronic ballast, non-electronic fluorescent lamp ballast. parallel connection your non-electronic 250w, so they are a about 350w ballast, run my 400w bulb is great!

note, remove the capacitor, my bulb dont like the capacitor.

the price of bulb is $40, the light house system is $40 too. shipping is $15 for them, total is $95

light house like this pic, you can get its holder, but there are no bore in the top of light house, you have to set the holder on the soleplate of your projector.
 

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LP500 Rebuild

In reply to part2wanksta question about the lamp rebuild. Cut the wire as close to ceramic base as you can. Make note of the distance beween the bottom of the lamp burner and the round bubble on the lamp for replacement of the new one. Then use flat head screw driver with a little masking tape on the end to prevent chipping/breaking glass reflector and pry off the ceramic base & discard it. You do not need to use it in the rebuild. Now you have to remove remaining glue/cement that's still in the bottom of the reflector to put in the new lamp.
I use a small drill bit to start some small holes and then chip awaywith a small screwdriver or similar tool to remove enough of the old cement to be able to slide in the new burner. If the old lamp is still in there (has not exploded) then I remove that with needle nose pliers with a cloth around it to protect against breaking it (it is super high pressure wear safety glasses) I twist it to make it come out.
BTW I cut or twist the top wire to disconnect from the bar that runs across the top. You do not need to use that bar unless you prefer to. I have done it both ways & noticed no dif in performance.
At this point the old lamp should be removed & you are ready to slide in the replacement. Go ahead & slide in & hook up wires temporary & put reflector back into base & turn on to check brightness. If not bright enough move the lamp forward or backward & test again until you get best brightness; then mark with sharpie so you know exactly where to cement it in place. After cement is dry complete your wiring by using existing screw & wire in reflector portion & strip end of wire you cut at ceramic base and secure using nut that came with new lamp.
I am setting up a drill press with diamond bits to simplify the process of drilling out the old lamp directly through the ceramic base. It will cut time by 75% to remove old cement & lamp & give a nice straight line to adjust new lamp forward & back for best brightness.
This is how I have rebuilt lamps for many projectors & it works fine. I have in the past used Resbond cement from Cotronics and am now switching to a 2 part Resbond940LE that will set in one hour.
Any questions ask & I'll try & help. I have no pics available but will post some when I rebuild another lamp so you can see the process. Good luck,
Jim
 
ywh said:
If your lamp is VIP R 270w, the Operating Voltage is 38V.it is a special Metal Halide lamp,not generic JYS can do it.
I can order this special JYS if you need.


Hi! ywh,

Back in July you were helping OzOnE_2k3 find a replacement bulb for a VIP R 273/46 (see Post#560). You mentioned that the replacement is a special JYS... Are these available, and if so what would it cost? I've just repaired the power supply to a proxima DS1 and need to replace the bulb that I dropped and broke while working on the projector. :bawling:

Thanks!!
 
Re: LP500 Rebuild

childsid said:
In reply to part2wanksta question about the lamp rebuild. Cut the wire as close to ceramic base as you can. Make note of the distance beween the bottom of the lamp burner and the round bubble on the lamp for replacement of the new one. Then use flat head screw driver with a little masking tape on the end to prevent chipping/breaking glass reflector and pry off the ceramic base & discard it. You do not need to use it in the rebuild. Now you have to remove remaining glue/cement that's still in the bottom of the reflector to put in the new lamp.
I use a small drill bit to start some small holes and then chip awaywith a small screwdriver or similar tool to remove enough of the old cement to be able to slide in the new burner. If the old lamp is still in there (has not exploded) then I remove that with needle nose pliers with a cloth around it to protect against breaking it (it is super high pressure wear safety glasses) I twist it to make it come out.
BTW I cut or twist the top wire to disconnect from the bar that runs across the top. You do not need to use that bar unless you prefer to. I have done it both ways & noticed no dif in performance.
At this point the old lamp should be removed & you are ready to slide in the replacement. Go ahead & slide in & hook up wires temporary & put reflector back into base & turn on to check brightness. If not bright enough move the lamp forward or backward & test again until you get best brightness; then mark with sharpie so you know exactly where to cement it in place. After cement is dry complete your wiring by using existing screw & wire in reflector portion & strip end of wire you cut at ceramic base and secure using nut that came with new lamp.
I am setting up a drill press with diamond bits to simplify the process of drilling out the old lamp directly through the ceramic base. It will cut time by 75% to remove old cement & lamp & give a nice straight line to adjust new lamp forward & back for best brightness.
This is how I have rebuilt lamps for many projectors & it works fine. I have in the past used Resbond cement from Cotronics and am now switching to a 2 part Resbond940LE that will set in one hour.
Any questions ask & I'll try & help. I have no pics available but will post some when I rebuild another lamp so you can see the process. Good luck,
Jim


dang where were you when i already started doing this. lol. well ill at least tell you what i did. i went and bought some jb weld. and glued my reflector back together.

some how i was able to get the wire on the bulb and the bolt on. all in the ceramic. so i just threw a bunch of jb weld inside where cement used to be. its all glueing right now,

as for that bar for the wire. i just used it by wrapp[ing the wire from the bulb all around it lol.

ill take pics. im really praying this will work
 
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