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#1 |
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diyAudio Member
Join Date: Apr 2005
Location: sdfsf
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Gah, they deleted my post because it contained the word "fcuk" in it.
Anyway, as mentioned in the topic..i'm going to try the guides i've been checking out online (specifically tomshardware http://www20.tomshardware.com/howto/20041113/index.html) to building a DIY projector and i need to know a couple of things. Is the Samsung 150MP easy to open? With no cable extension etc? Is a tablefan enough for cooling? Are there any problems newbies have run into apart from cracking the lcd screen when opening? Is there any alternative to the usual high consumption (as well as hot!) bulbs in ohps? If there is, could you give me the brand name of the OHP/ instructions on how to put the new bulb into the ohp? I guess the main problem is the heat from the conventional bulb. I've done my searches and i've gotten half my questions answered....these are the final few. I really want to get the samsung 150mp down because it has a tv tuner (i'm sure you're already aware) and it'd be awesome. Thanks a lot and i'll keep you posted on the ohp....i'm hoping to make a detailed video as well. Louis http://www.suckball.com |
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#2 |
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diyAudio Member
Join Date: Apr 2005
Location: sdfsf
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boing
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#3 |
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diyAudio Member
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i use a 7 inch desk fan in my projector. it's behind the bulb, drawing air out of the light chamber.
it has two speeds and i keep it on low. a temp probe on the exhaust vent reads a steady 80F. the fan is quiet and moves a LOT of air. i also have a temperature controlled 80mm computer case fan pushing air over the LCD and fresnels. it spins faster when hot, but doesn't make a lot of noise. good luck, and post pictures.
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#4 |
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diyAudio Member
Join Date: Jun 2004
Location: Vaughan, Ontario (near Toronto)
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The most cfommon problem is the RIBBON cables cracking or ripping, etc.
You can retrofit an overhead with a metal hallide lamp, thus giving you more brightness, better color temp, much MUCH longer life, less heat, more power efficiency, etc, bla bla bla... Good luck, Yea, post pics if you can, Cheers, Alex
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Currently used display: NEC XG110 HDTV CRT Projector 90" lenticular silver screen Current Audio setup: Fronts - Realistic Mach One (FREE!!!) ![]() Sansui SP- 5500x (with new woofers - free woofers!!!) ![]() Center - dB+ studio monitor Rears - Kenwood LS 70's Hitachi HSP-MS53's Sub - Acoustech Labs S100ETH AMP - Insignia IS-HC040917 (cheap but does the job) Gotta love 4 15" woofers!!! |
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#5 | |
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diyAudio Member
Join Date: Apr 2005
Location: 0.o
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Quote:
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#6 |
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diyAudio Member
Join Date: Jun 2004
Location: Vaughan, Ontario (near Toronto)
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Hmm... i guess so. Rember, if youre using an lcd like a 14 or 15", the bigger the stage size the better. Oh and the objective lens matters too. The higher end overheads have triplet lenses, most have doublet, and some have low end singlet lenses. (Im sure you guessed it by now - triplet is better than a doublet or singlet, and doublet is better than a singlet)
Cheers, Alex
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Currently used display: NEC XG110 HDTV CRT Projector 90" lenticular silver screen Current Audio setup: Fronts - Realistic Mach One (FREE!!!) ![]() Sansui SP- 5500x (with new woofers - free woofers!!!) ![]() Center - dB+ studio monitor Rears - Kenwood LS 70's Hitachi HSP-MS53's Sub - Acoustech Labs S100ETH AMP - Insignia IS-HC040917 (cheap but does the job) Gotta love 4 15" woofers!!! |
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#7 |
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diyAudio Member
Join Date: Apr 2005
Location: 0.o
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How hard would it be to retrofit it? and are there any guides out there?
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#8 |
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diyAudio Member
Join Date: Jun 2004
Location: Vaughan, Ontario (near Toronto)
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There should be plenty of posts about retrofitting. Im no expert, and have never done it, just telling you what I read here before. I doubt its very hard. You need to install the bulb at the EXACT same place as the previous one, or you will get significant light loss.
Cheers, Alex
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Currently used display: NEC XG110 HDTV CRT Projector 90" lenticular silver screen Current Audio setup: Fronts - Realistic Mach One (FREE!!!) ![]() Sansui SP- 5500x (with new woofers - free woofers!!!) ![]() Center - dB+ studio monitor Rears - Kenwood LS 70's Hitachi HSP-MS53's Sub - Acoustech Labs S100ETH AMP - Insignia IS-HC040917 (cheap but does the job) Gotta love 4 15" woofers!!! |
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#9 |
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diyAudio Member
Join Date: Aug 2004
Location: Australia, North Coast NSW
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http://www.diyprojectorcompany.com/o...p_retrofit.htm
thats a bit of a guide to retrofitting an ohp. doesn't tell you much but its something. |
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#10 |
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diyAudio Member
Join Date: Apr 2005
Location: sdfsf
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Now I know what you people are talking about...
I openned everything up in less than 20 minutes....got the lcd off no problems and then i realised there was a problem what am I going to do? any ideas? if the single connector was maybe 1 ft long...i can pull it to the side...apart from that...there's really nothing i can do now. I have an idea to get 3 mirrors - One to reflect the light from the projector to the side - The side to reflect the light to the mirror under the lcd screen (so that the chip is out of the way - Last mirror to reflect directly upwards into the magnifying glass what a bummer... i read somewhere it could be done and now i've busted 200 bucks for this |
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