You may have tried it already but googling for " AA21620 " yields about 16 results. Maybe the answer is there somewhere?
Good luck either way as sometimes this kind of info is jealously guarded by service techs.
btw, have the Infocus LP335 here. Works a lot better than i thought it would and the deal was too sweet to pass up (free extra bulbs and everything!).
Good luck either way as sometimes this kind of info is jealously guarded by service techs.
btw, have the Infocus LP335 here. Works a lot better than i thought it would and the deal was too sweet to pass up (free extra bulbs and everything!).
Search on Ebay for the LP340. I have the boxlight version myself. You can find parts units pretty often for them that you could possibly just swap out the board with.
BTW, would you happen to be the same guy that IM's me over at AVS forums about a blown part on the PS board? I just got it a couple days ago. I'm planning on pulling mine apart this weekend to look at the part if it was you.....
BTW, would you happen to be the same guy that IM's me over at AVS forums about a blown part on the PS board? I just got it a couple days ago. I'm planning on pulling mine apart this weekend to look at the part if it was you.....
i know this is an old thread. but hte power supplies fail in several way.s you can send them to me to get fixed, i will fix them for you.
the viper will fail, and will take out the opto isolator, the SMD regulator transistor, a startup resistor, the viper itself, 3 IN4148 SMD diodes, 100uf 25v capacitor, and a diode in the secondary of the power supply. this is all caused by the regulator opto failing, running the viper past its specs.
good luck getting that silicone **** off the viper heatsink to remove it. fun fun.
also there is a 0.1uf 400v starting capacitor that goes bad and will blow the main MOSFET and a series of chips and other parts. this is due to starting the wrong lamp type in the wrong power supply. thats why infocus issued a Rev01 update.
also another known common problem is it will light the lamp, but the lamp will be very dim, and then it cuts out. and retries.
this is caused by shorted windings in the boost B+ converter. that somtimes will fail, not very common, but does occure.
the most common failures is the starting capacitors/resistors, and the opto-isolator failure taking out the viper, and a series of other components. all of which i can fix.
the viper will fail, and will take out the opto isolator, the SMD regulator transistor, a startup resistor, the viper itself, 3 IN4148 SMD diodes, 100uf 25v capacitor, and a diode in the secondary of the power supply. this is all caused by the regulator opto failing, running the viper past its specs.
good luck getting that silicone **** off the viper heatsink to remove it. fun fun.
also there is a 0.1uf 400v starting capacitor that goes bad and will blow the main MOSFET and a series of chips and other parts. this is due to starting the wrong lamp type in the wrong power supply. thats why infocus issued a Rev01 update.
also another known common problem is it will light the lamp, but the lamp will be very dim, and then it cuts out. and retries.
this is caused by shorted windings in the boost B+ converter. that somtimes will fail, not very common, but does occure.
the most common failures is the starting capacitors/resistors, and the opto-isolator failure taking out the viper, and a series of other components. all of which i can fix.
infocus lp350 Power Supply
Mbates
I have a lp350 that will not power up. I have replaced the Viper, the 100uf cap and a surface mount transisistor that were obviously damaged but it still wont power up and the drain pin on the viper is not oscillating. I can locate the optos but not the diodes you refer to, however I have found some sm diodes in 2 packs that seem to have one blown. I dont have any clue however the original orientation of these diodes. Im about stuck, any clues, schematics or would you like to fix it?
Mbates
I have a lp350 that will not power up. I have replaced the Viper, the 100uf cap and a surface mount transisistor that were obviously damaged but it still wont power up and the drain pin on the viper is not oscillating. I can locate the optos but not the diodes you refer to, however I have found some sm diodes in 2 packs that seem to have one blown. I dont have any clue however the original orientation of these diodes. Im about stuck, any clues, schematics or would you like to fix it?
LP350 Power Supply
No I am still pretty well stuck with out the schematic. The viper is easy enough to spot and is available through digikey as are the caps that are probably blown as well but the smt diodes in 2 packs are pretty hard to figure out. Hopefully someone will come one here and clear this up for us
Cliff
No I am still pretty well stuck with out the schematic. The viper is easy enough to spot and is available through digikey as are the caps that are probably blown as well but the smt diodes in 2 packs are pretty hard to figure out. Hopefully someone will come one here and clear this up for us
Cliff
maybe
guys. sheesh. lol, your not getting a schematic. ive tried, hunted and learned. ive worked on over 50 of these power supplies and i know how they work by the back of my hand now, without a schematic.
Q500 is a PNP small-signal transistor.
you will need to replace the 2 diode packs which ar enothing more than 3 1N4148s, the viper, the opto-isolator, a secondary diode in the power supply, that transistor, and possibly the 2K startup resistor, along wiht the 100uf 35V cap.
it would be easier if you sent them to me to get repaired as i can fix MOST of them, not all of them and have a quick turnaround time. PM me for details, im sorta backlogged with quite a few of them now, so it might take longer than usual.
Q500 is a PNP small-signal transistor.
you will need to replace the 2 diode packs which ar enothing more than 3 1N4148s, the viper, the opto-isolator, a secondary diode in the power supply, that transistor, and possibly the 2K startup resistor, along wiht the 100uf 35V cap.
it would be easier if you sent them to me to get repaired as i can fix MOST of them, not all of them and have a quick turnaround time. PM me for details, im sorta backlogged with quite a few of them now, so it might take longer than usual.
anyway, its practically the same circuit on all of the different supplys made for that unit. the only difference between the two is the aztecs used a different resistor combination on the current regulator comparator to the lamp. it sorta "bursts" to full brightness rather than slowly gaining full brightness. they extincted that one becuase the burst can sometimes blow lamps, or even worse, blow the B+ boost converter regulator in the power supply.
mbates14,
You seem to be extreemly knowlegeable about this model. I have a problem that I have seen in a few other places on the web without specific intstructions for fixing.
Problem: LP335. Unit will power up, bulb starts dim and comes up to brighness, menu displays and then within 20 seconds, the logic locks up and the bulb goes out. No control of the power button at this point. If I pull power cord and re attach, I can then attempt power up again. If I power it down using the button before it locks up, it will sucessfully power down.
It just seems that there is something either power supply related or logic related that freezes up after about 20 seconds. This particular bulb has only about 10 hours on it.
I can do component level repair, but don't know where to start.
Thanks!
You seem to be extreemly knowlegeable about this model. I have a problem that I have seen in a few other places on the web without specific intstructions for fixing.
Problem: LP335. Unit will power up, bulb starts dim and comes up to brighness, menu displays and then within 20 seconds, the logic locks up and the bulb goes out. No control of the power button at this point. If I pull power cord and re attach, I can then attempt power up again. If I power it down using the button before it locks up, it will sucessfully power down.
It just seems that there is something either power supply related or logic related that freezes up after about 20 seconds. This particular bulb has only about 10 hours on it.
I can do component level repair, but don't know where to start.
Thanks!
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