Bout time I have a go at this projector building stuff!!!

[NottaClu]

here is the setup I had to get the first projected image.....

[NottaClu]

and here is the first image....camera deff doesn't do it justice. Image is fairly brighter in person, plus the projector does not have a lid or walls so it was bleeding alot of light that washed out the image a bit. The image was 7'6'' wide and about 4'8 tall.....i was happy

[NottaClu]

close up showing clairity....only problem is that the top left corner is a tad out of focus and a bit brighter the the rest....i dont know why......

[NottaClu]

when I said top left I ment the top left of the whole screen....

i am gettin a lot of heat build up on the LCD. If I put a peice of UV and IR glass after the light will this help matters??? Please help.

Thats all for now....till next sunday

[laub]

wassup notta
im new at this and wanna build one myself
about how much did it cost to buy all the equipment to build it?
and where did you learn how to build it?
thanks

[Guy Grotke]

It definitely would help to add something to control the IR in the light reaching the LCD, and you must have UV filtering or you will damage your fresnel & LCD. Different things have been used to control IR: hot mirror, heat absorbing glass, tempered glass, etc. I use 0 degree hot mirror just after the lamp & my fresnels & LCD never even get warm. I also use a thin piece of Lexan XL10 to support my fresnels AND filter out the UV.

It would also be a good idea to have some active cooling of the spaces above and below the LCD. When you put it all in a box, you could make the airflow going into the lightbox traverse the top of the LCD, and then the bottom of the LCD before it gets to the blower fan. Until then, you might want to add a fan just to blow some air into those spaces.

Sure is satisfying when you get that first screen image! I just passed another milestone tonight: My wife and I saw a DVD of a movie on our neighbor's plasma screen, and then she said: "I want to see that again, but this time on your projector." So my biggest critic (and my best supporter) thinks my PJ is good enough to watch...

[NottaClu]

hey guy...thanks for the input buddy...

what do you mean by traverse??? I am kinda lost...and really do not know where I could put a fan to cool the lcd and fresnells...if you could maybe....if its not to much of a hassel ms paint me up a picture of what you ment by traverse airflow that would be awesome.

I am deff gonna get a piece of UV and IR glass to put inbeween the light and the LCDs. I cannot use a hot mirror anymore cause I do not want to change my design. But if I get a fan on the fresnels and lcd and have UV and IR filter...that should be decent enough...plus my bulb has some UV controll built in...

about how much did it cost to buy all the equipment to build it?

well laub...
lcd cost about 190 on ebay
light and all lenses cost about 75-80
other materials for box cost about 50
(all in USD)

you in no way need to spend this much...some people on here use PSOne and PS2 travel LCD screens and get a decent image...this only cost around 30-50 dollars...

and where did I learn how to do all this....I must give all credit to all the hard working people on this forum....i stumbled onto this site...and read about a million posts...and then worked up enought courage to try myself....

any other questions feel free to ask....

---Drew

[NottaClu]

I lied...light and lenses cost about 120-150 forgot about the ballast and what not....

[NottaClu]

Guy,
Check out the IR and UV glass at diylabs.org and tell me what you think...think that would be ok to put both pieces after my light or do you think that will cut out to much of the light...I would appriciate some suggestions...thanks man



drew

[Guy Grotke]

I have no experience with this product, but it sounds like something I wanted to try: VK-70 spectrally selective heat film applied to glass. I have been reading about VK-70 for a while with some interest. It is a hot mirror dichroic thin film, but sandwiched between layers of plastic instead of being deposited on a glass surface. It is available from some high-end window tinting companies. It is used on both cars and building windows to let in most of the visible light, while blocking most of the heat.

I think the difference would be that the plastic film on glass would have to go much further away from the lamp. I have hot mirror (on glass) within a few millimeters of my lamp. This stuff would have to go just before the fresnels. From reading the VK-70 specs, it is not really quite as good as standard hot mirror in terms of visible light transmission and IR reflection. But maybe it is good enough! It would certainly make a lot of designs much easier and cheaper if it is.

It IS pretty cheap! You should try it and let us know how it works out. Has anybody else reading this tried it?

By "traverse the LCD", I just meant you could make the airflow blow across the surface of the LCD on one side and then the other side, using air ducts built into the box. The air your pusher fan sends into the light engine has to come from somewhere. It might as well get pulled past all of your other layers first. That is just a matter of building some air paths into your box. Practically free!