sharp lcd projector auto shutoff

[li_gangyi]

it should shut off...because the uC is sensing that the ballast has a problem and therefore will noit allow a turn on...

[kahurt]

Just got a service manual from servicemanual.net they have instant download versions . I'll have to read and figure out where to go from here. I belive the answer is in the ballast circuit somewhere.

[li_gangyi]

could u send me the file?? I want to have a look...thanks...just E-mail it to me.

[kahurt]

the manual is 25 mb . I didn't see where i can attach it to the email system here. give me your email address and i will try to send it to you direct.

[li_gangyi]

ermz...25mB is a bit steep...maybe you can send me via other channels like FTP or something?? My mail box is at
a1265@singnet.com.sg
dunno if it can take 25mB though...

[greidy78]

Diylabs,

You reference a L592 I have an L595 and am curious in which two of the three wires you shorted and the resistor valuse and rating you used. Furthermore what lamp did you use to retrofit this unit with? Any Further details would be much appreciated.

Thanks in Advance

[diylabs]

Hello! The two wires I crossed ... I'm not sure, but they were next to each other, so it's either 1-2 or 2-3. I actually just used a jumper (0 ohms), but then later decided to put in a 10 or 100 ohm resistor to prevent too much current through those wires. The lamp I used at the time was a 300 watt halogen (didn't know about metal halides at the time), but that was way too hot and melted the lamp housing a bit. You could probably make an aluminum lamp enclosure for a halogen and then install a fan directly on the lamp housing, but metal halide would be much better. Assuming your projector is similar to the L592, then it's a very good projector - who knew panasonic made such good LCD projectors?!

[greidy78]

Thanks DiyLabs,

I sucessfully turned off the autoshutoff with a 220 Ohm resistor between two of the wires. Furthermore just for testing I was able to retrofit with a 70W T6 MH lamp and custom reflector. The image projected was somewhat dim but seemed to be ok. I did whoever notice on one side of the screen was a "warmer" color set, could just be how I placed the lamp though as by no means was it centered or focused.

Now its time to put the 250W in.....

Thanks again

[diylabs]

When you got it to work, did you scream "IT IS ALIVE!"? I'm glad that it worked the same way on your projector as it did on my old one. Your lighting problem is typical, which is probably why more people don't do this, but it's also fixable. Typically using a condenser lens such as we carry will fix that problem very nicely. Also, you want to get the light source as close to the built-in columating lens as possible (this is the square condenser-like lens that is in the projector lighting compartment). I think that you will find that a 250w HQI light source will do the job nicely for darker lighting situations, and will work very nicely in general if you get a reflector and a condenser to go with it (our reflector is not the absolute best, but works okay on a budget).

[mbluff]

To reset the timer on this puppy:

Turn main power off.

simultaneously hold down the Volume Down and the adjust down buttons and turn the power on (red main power button).

The unit should power up and the lamp illuminate with 0000h displayed