Starting a DIYproject with a 7" lcd

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Starting a DIYproject with a 7" lcd

Hello guys,

I didn't post things yet, althought I've been reading this forum for quite some time, just to learn things and not post to basic questions.

Now I think I'm ready to buy my stuff for a home-made-projection system, but I've got a few thinks to ask/discuss.

- What I have (and hope will be good enough to give it a try) is a 7" Lilliput VGA/AV monitor (like ace and some ohters use also). I simply bought this screen because it had VGA and analogue input, enough pixels, 200:1 contrast, and wasn't to big!

The other stuff I want to buy is the following:
- 250 watt MH kit (from DIYlabs)
- the tripplet lens (idem)
- the reflector and condenser (idem)
- fresnel lens (idem)

this stuff seems great to me, and it's hard to buy the parts seperatly for me, because shipping to belgium is always quite expensive.

What i'm worried most about is the following:
I can make as many enclosure as I want (because I can get the material hear, and wood and other building materials are not expensive at all)
but i'm a student, and will not be able to buy e.g. a new projection lens or a new fresnel in a couple of weeks, that's simply to expensive.

I want to know what you guys think about the setup, and if the fresnel from DIYlabs is the best (f.l. etc.) for the setup I want to create...
I know there will always be better, but hope you guys understand what I mean..

I'll post some acad drawings on my ideas soon!

Please help me decide!
Any questions/suggestions welcome, thanks
 
Since I a just starting aswell, all I can provide is the prices for the DIYLabs pieces.

I ordered about the same stuff and it makes 246 euros.
(shiping not included, still waiting for Alan to get my parcel ready).

For the quality, I have no idea yet of course, but Alan is the only one who could provide all parts to start with, and it seems there is a lot worse things to be bought. And certainly a lot of the better parts cost more, if bought 1 by 1 (especially when you add $20 shipping for each part when bought from different stores, shipping from the states to europe :bawling: :smash: ).

If you descide on the parts, maybe we can combine the shipping since I am in Belgium too, just an idea to cut our costs down. (after you get a few objective answer wether they suit your project from people who actually know something unlike myself).

I am betting on the pieces, bulding my 1st projector, making those noobie mistakes, learning from them, sell the 1st proto to a friend not so picky, and starting all over a couple of times till I get it right.
Thats the fun anyway, building them, (ok and ocassionally using it aferwards :))
 
sounds like a great idea

Hello,

I mailed with alan allready before i posted this tread.

and with what you just said we could order it like this... (see attached jpg of the order for the 2 of us) or did you need anything more/less.

If we place the order like this, I'm sure alan will send it to us (Belgium) for this price of 490$,
he allready told me he would do it, because off ordering the condenser lens that should be free up to the first of january.

I think it might be great, because for 200 euro we will both have all we need to start the project (instead of 230 euro :))

Let me know what you think.

(je mag natuurlijk ook altijd mailen.. of je msn adres ns mailen, kunnen we eventueel verder bespreken...)
 

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diyAudio Member
Joined 2003
guys forget those prices they are way too much, im in spain and i can supply u all of the parts, 0320400 sorry i havnt emailed u yet ive been abit tied up with christmas and hangovers lol and working out a problem for the ESA. Ill get back to you shortly.

Trev
 
Trev,

great to have you around here...

You see it's not easy to find all the stuff needed to start. Surely not in Europe, where shipping rates will become so high when ordering from different vendors!

In the mean time I'm convinced Alan has good stuff in his shop, and also not just for beginners, and that's a good point to me.

As I allready explained, I think the price isn't the only thing that's important. When I spend my money on this project I hope in the first place to have the right material for great quality projection. Maybe that's most important! (like for expample the 7" lcd, I know it will work great and I'll ((have to)) keep it for more than one experiment)

Hope you can give some great advice Trev.
and when you do have time, feel free to mail me. Thanks a lot
 
why buy from USA, when you can buy everything cheaper in Europe?

I visit ebay.de from time to time. you can get 250w HQI lamps for $20 each, or a fixture ( including sockets) for $80. Not mention 150W cdm-t is not easy to find anywhere in US. you just need to be a little bit patient and in 2-3 weeks you can get everything you want.
 
Thanks 18wheeler for replying

I had found thos 250 watt MH's bud I was convinced the cheaper ballast they sell here are not the same quality of the electronical from diy-labs, and I read about those things producing noise.

Sometimes you think by reading more you'll get a much clearer view on things, but it's confisuing also...

Know, the 150W cdm-t lamp you're telling about. I haven't heard much about that one...
Possibly some more information, or a link with more details?
pro's con's??

Thanks so much for reacting, because it would indeed be stupid to buy things more expensive in US...
and sorry i didn't know anything about this newer 'bulb', i surely do have time to wait a week (or weeks).
Hope at the end I can make the right decisions..
 
I searched a bit more round those 150W cdm-t lamps.
(I also saw Ace is using it, so sorry for not having it noticed in my previous posts)

As far as I'm right, I think
-these have higher lumens/watt,
but still resulting in less mean-lumens then the 250W.
- they are smaller, and it's easier to focus the light as a point source
- their colortemperature is about 10000K or higher (is this needed?)
- single ended, so space saving as I presume

but:

- they have shorter life time!!

- and i can't figure out what would be the ideal ballast to buy with them... :bawling:

Sorry for the 'nooby'-questions, but that's because of all the different solutions popping up...

Whit all this I'm not longer sure what to choose because:
- first I had dis big 400 Watt MH - idea (about 24000 lumens)
- then I got convinced for the 250 Watt SMALLER MH double ended (like DIYlabs is selling) (has about same lumens)
- now there are these 150 Watt cdm-t lamps...

For the ballas I found out that the most important is it to match your lamp (ansi # and stuff) and that it doesn't really is an improvement to have an electrical or not...

Here I'm back to the 'total noobs' :bigeyes:
I even don't know wich light source to choose any more :bawling:
 

JCB

Disabled Account
Joined 2003
I'd say as a general rule of thumb you could go by the following:

-For 15" panels going in a larger box where space isnt really a concern... use a 400 watt MH setup.

-For 15" panels going into a smaller, tighter box... go for the 250 watt kits.

-If space is going to be REAL tight or your using smaller panels, you have to look to either a 250 or 150 watt setup.

-JCB
(jcbklyny)
 
you're absolutely right JCB

that's why the huge 400 watt MH-bulb is out of question, because I'm using a 7" tft.

But then there is this complex situation to opt for either 250 Watt MH or 150 Watt setup.

Let me explain why I was (am) pro the 250 Watt kit.

- It's not that big anymore, and has almost as much lumens as the 400 watt big bulb would give.
- Due it's not so big it's doable to add reflector and condenser
- Because of the high lumens it will produce it's less important when the rear optics are not 100% effective. (hope u understand what I mean)
- Also if you look at the price - lifetime quality, i might think the 250 Watt scores better

But, this is just what I think, and i surely want to learn more about the 150 setup like ace is also using!
The thing I'm conserned of is that with this 150 Watt (a lot less mean lumens) and without the perfect rear optics, I'll not have that bright picture I'm going for...

all help/suggestions/pro's&con's very welcome

Let's go to sleep, and dream about it a bit!..
 
diyAudio Member
Joined 2003
ok stats on my bulb,

inital lumens: 14000
mean lumens: 12500
life time: 12000hrs
colour temp: 4200k
type: CDM-T single ended G12 base
UV Block: yes
arc length: 9mm

now a 250w hqi

inital lumens: 20000
mean lumens: 14000 - 9000
colour temp: 4200k
life time: 10000hrs
UV block: no
arc length: 20mm - 18mm

all lifetimes are average rated, meaning that 50% of the bulbs lived at say 10000hrs and 50% died, there is no real time that they last but a warning to say to change your bulb by the 10000hr limit to avoid explosion or ballast/ignigtor damage.

now the stats up the top are of my bulb, its made by GE, the phillips dont last aslong they last an average of 6000hrs and so do osrams cdm-t, in fact the osram cdm-t is a total waste of time , most of thier bulbs are as the mean lumen realy drops down, if u do go with the cdm-t make sure its a GE bulb and if u go with a 250w hqi make sure its anything but a osram lol, GE, phillips or advance are good in the 250w range but once again they drop the lumens fast at the mean time but not as fast as the osram 250w hqi, if they made the cdm-t in a 250w package they would be the ducks nuts in bulbs but as of yet they still dont, for your 7inch lcd id recomend a cdm-t because it has a bult in uv filter, it puts out way less heat, u wont loose your black levels as much, and u will have a bright picture for longer, the 250w hqi will loose your blacks, drop in lumen output faster and put out serious amounts of heat and uv on such a small lcd, therfore discoulouring the lcd and making it run too hot over time, jcb is prety much right in his statement on the uses for various wattages on bulbs, but it also comes down to other things like contrast and size of the projected image ect, also it depends on the light engine and what will be used, it even comes down to what front surface mirror your using and what quality frensel your using and lcd transmisibility. As for magnetic ballasts, some can make a noise, the cdm-t ballast doesnt draw enough amps to make any noise, mines silent, a 250w might be different, i know in the usa the 250w ballast make a noise, but that may be because over in the usa the voltage is different and the amps are higher.

Trev
 
ok,

after all this, i did some searching to find those CDM-T 150 watt somewhere in Europe.
As I passed along ebay, I could find some, but all the osram (sometimes the philips) brand.
Google gave some results of shops in UK and germany, but all selling this Philips bulb for around 50 euro.

For the ballast, as far as I'm right there's a 150 watt metal halide ballast necessary, (like you can easely find them at 1000bulbs, or elights)... its the S50 type I guess.

Ace, maybe if you don't mind, I can send you an email with what, and where I would like to buy my stuff... You also live in Europe, and when you've got the time, it might be helpfull to correct me where I'm rong. Just an idea... let me know.

THanks,
Steven
 
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