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#1 |
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diyAudio Member
Join Date: Nov 2003
Location: Australia
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hi, all
first... BIG THANKS TO ALL the guys on this forum for help and information, without which I would not have achieved these results. Of which, I'm reasonably happy considering this is my first attempt. i guess the best way to show appreciation here is to throw some information and experience back into the mix for everyone. i'll keep posting infomation about my setup here in this thread (with pics too )here we go.. LIGHT SOURCE: A+K Scholar 400 (400w halogen EVD) LCD PANEL: CMV1515 flat panel monitor SCREEN: my dirty white bedroom wall I agonised for ages over the choice between the BENQ 581s/567s and CMV1515. In the end, the CMV1515 won out because opinions on the forums seem to sway towards it as better overall (though not suited for OHP, which was what I was planning!). I thought I'd take a chance anyway, it seem to be better suited for the primary task I wanted it for.. games ![]() See this post for more info.. CMV1515 vs BenQ 581s |
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#2 |
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diyAudio Member
Join Date: Nov 2003
Location: Australia
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and so it begins..
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#3 |
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diyAudio Member
Join Date: Nov 2003
Location: Australia
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it took me about 2 hours to get this stage.
i was trying to be really, really careful. i've never pulled apart something like this before.. considering it was brand new and less than a day old i would be really upset, if i screwed it up at ths stage. |
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#4 |
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diyAudio Member
Join Date: Nov 2003
Location: Australia
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font cover off finally..
TIP: if you have digital camera, take LOTS of pictures of every step of the disassembly process. reason being... you may want to put back it together again so day in the distant future. i took a picture pretty much everytime a i removed something. these was especially important for the CMV1515. for some reason, these things are a lot more complicated than my PC (which i regularily tear apart for some reason or other). It seems to have a fair number of screws of different (close) sizes which its going to very annoying if you dont know where they go. There was a fair amount of metal shielding too, which I'm removing (and basically discarding) hmm.. i guess there was prolly a good reason for it.. i wonder just how much EM and other wonderful types of radiation these things give out. i'm imagining all those x-rays being pushed out by that big white cathode base
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#5 |
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diyAudio Member
Join Date: Nov 2003
Location: Australia
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ok.. its done, stripped naked. very sexah...
![]() note: do not lay it out like this.. i'm an idiot. |
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#6 |
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diyAudio Member
Join Date: Nov 2003
Location: Australia
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this is why..
you can see all those delicate high density black flat cables being stressed, pulled and bent at 90 degrees along the top the LCD. only takes one to tear a little then the panel is an expensive paper weight. luckily they were tough enough for time i was playing with it here but why take the chance? note the small yellow cable forcing this configuration. it was about this time when i realised that i might have a problem with the flat OHP tray setup i was planning.. erghhh.. |
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#7 |
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diyAudio Member
Join Date: Nov 2003
Location: Australia
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here's that agravating little cable.. its prolly big enough to extend but i'm cringing at the thought of actually cutting it.
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#8 |
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diyAudio Member
Join Date: Nov 2003
Location: Australia
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here it is mounted on the metal tray holder thing that was orignally holding the LCD to the cathode base. As Brainchild suggested in another thread, it siliconed the LCD to it to protect it and the cables. I didn't use as much as he did though, just enough to secure the corners in case i had to take it apart again.
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#9 |
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diyAudio Member
Join Date: Nov 2003
Location: Vancouver
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Looks awesome, I just got my Samsung152T apart yesterday, and damn the panels look sexy :P But your FFC looks way nicer than mine
eek :P Yeah I am really worried about cutting the FFC I know I can extend it with my pro-skills at soldering, but ... EEK! Nice work and pics! |
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#10 |
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diyAudio Member
Join Date: Nov 2003
Location: Australia
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my light source.. 400 watts of halogen goodness. its friggin bright and hot enough to barbeque on the stage (ok, i'm exaggerating a little... but it's a really hot light)
it has color temperature adjustments (means just moving the light bulb up and down inside the projector casing) and a turbo bright mode (i think it just switches the spare lamp on at the same time as the primary one... like it wasnt hot enough already. thats 2 x 400w halogen lights inside that small space)TIP: do not look directly into the lens when the projector is on, you will be blinded for about 5 minutes and there will be a big purple/red spot in your vision for the next hour or so
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