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#41 |
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diyAudio Member
Join Date: Nov 2003
Location: Australia
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ohh..geeze, i need to get some sleep, i've been posting all night.
Good night all.. hope this thread answers some questions for the noobies... My next project, i'm redoing my frame for the LCD and cutting/splitting another fresnel (my spare ). Maybe even a proper screen.. More later.And, remember... Don't forget Mister Pointy. |
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#42 |
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diyAudio Member
Join Date: Oct 2003
Location: oxfrd
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Brillaint pictures, i want those games!!!
![]() great project, i guess i know what it's like to rush at things and crack them, that what always do. at least with some things. i think that just using a normal fresnel where the ohp one normally is should give amazing details and light convergence... just like using the lcd as a transparency. have you tried? that is what i have it's great. try white pvc shower curtain to hang over the dirty wall dude it's probably really reflective... good one man! |
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#43 |
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diyAudio Member
Join Date: Aug 2003
Location: east coast
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Fun ain't it LOO?
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#44 |
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diyAudio Member
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i also want to build this !!but now i have (some) questions... 1. where did you get the CMV1515 ?? do you have any details on this display ?2. which fresnel did you use ? what about the fresnel in the OHP - is it useful ? 3. what exactly did you use the polycarbonate for ?4. Could you please tell me how much you paid for all the parts ?thanks in advance, sorry for my english and nice greetings from austria, central europe |
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#45 |
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diyAudio Member
Join Date: Oct 2003
Location: oxfrd
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hey, the CMV 1515 is available in deutshland in google, i think i have seen some .de websites with this one. if you can find a very good deal in europe please post a link for it!!
any normal ohp type fresnel is perfect, and alot of people do this: http://www.diylabs.org/projector/fresnel_splitting.htm but to be honest i think that it is not necessary for a CMV because it has the widest viewing angle available. |
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#46 |
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diyAudio Member
Join Date: Mar 2003
Location: cold Cold north
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Hey looie are those pics of the lcd or screen? can you take some pics of your setup lights on etc and of the projected surface with something in the pic to be size representative? thanks and great job.
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#47 | |
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diyAudio Member
Join Date: Nov 2003
Location: Australia
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Brainchild,
Your original excellent pics from your 1515 setup was what convinced me to jump in.. ![]() VvvvvV, i dont have a shower curtain to test with though i have some results with a plain old bedsheet i post later ![]() Quote:
hmmm... here is a pic of my dirty wall i accidently left my camera flash on when i was trying to take pics of my windows desktop. those are cdrom covers at the bottom of the pic for size comparisions. actually, you can see same stuff at the bottom in the my second pic of desktop in an earlier post.i just measured it, its about 2 meters by 1.5 meters. |
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#48 |
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diyAudio Member
Join Date: Nov 2003
Location: Australia
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I still have my original OHP fresnel (just removed and stored away) and brought 2 extra from http://www.3dlens.com I figured that might need it because i might screw one up. (lucky, I did!!)
#OHP310 $ 29.00 USD Quantity Unit Price 1~ 4 @US$29.00 310mm x 310mm (12.2"x12.2") Item: #OHP310 Thickness: 4mm Weight: 460 grams Material: optical acrylic Groove pitch: 0.5mm Focal length: 132mm (f1:330mm f2:220mm) They are in Taiwan, it took only a few days to ship to Australia and they were very responsive to emails. unfortunately i forgot to ask them if they ship with the lens pre-split. I guess they manufacture the things, they have all sorts of interesting stuff on thier site. Though it might be better to find a suppiler closer to you. This is a cross section of my setup. |
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#49 |
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diyAudio Member
Join Date: Nov 2003
Location: Australia
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VvvvvV,
yes.. actually, i did all sorts of tests with the lens configuration and this was the best for me. i was following that other thread with the debate about split lenses. i would recommend testing different configs to everyone as this seems to be more of an art form than exact science my observations were.. 1. when putting the LCD (raised about 20mm above the OHP stage because of the PCB) without removing original OHP fresnel. the LCD got hot because all the light was focused on it and only about 3/4 of the LCD was lit. 2. putting the fresnel unsplit directly behind the LCD was awkward for my particular setup. but some rough testing showed that it still heated up the LCD and i still had some of the edges of the LCD unlit. 3. After I removed the OHP fresnel and set it up as above. I immediately got full screen and the LCD was not as hot. There is a bit more blurring towards the edges but to so much that it was annoying. The picture was brighter too. However, you could see some rings from the fresnel. after i put a 10mm between the top fresnel and LCD, the rings where gone but it will reduce your brightness level somewhat. i ended up just using clothes pegs to make the distance. Also, the color temperature adjustment on the OHP just happens to allow me to get the right focal length on the bottom fresnel. (all it does is move the lamp up and down) |
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#50 |
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diyAudio Member
Join Date: Nov 2003
Location: Australia
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here is the underside, showing clear polycarbonate bottom with lower fresnel taped on it.
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