CMV1515 working with OHP (lots of pics)

[LOOie]

thanks, hmm.. good luck on the soldering, Mr.Kh I saw something on one of the other threads that it was very risky. cant remember the thread exactly. i would avoid all together if i can.

[LOOie]

my first test of the thing..

yeah!! i got a blank light on the wall.

plugged it into my notebook. geeze... the LCD got really hot just sitting there with the light on, so i put had to put a big fan on it (only one i could find at the time). it kinda worked.

[LOOie]

i cant believe it.. !!!!

OK.. the picture is blurry, out of focus, and i can only see about 3/4 of the Windows desktop and its also back to front.

BUT IT WORKS!!! YEAH!!

[LOOie]

here is the LCD, being barbequed on my OHP stage.. i can almost smell the melting plastic... hmmm.. yummy.

[LOOie]

sooo.. i've proven the concept works. now for the real stuff....

over the next few days.. i gather some bits and pieces, e.g. fans, wood, ect. i need to build a frame for the LCD and fans and maybe split the fresnel lens and sandwich the LCD so i can get full screen.

The LCD would sit on top of the frame, so the board will dangle down, thus i wont need to worry about the board being at an angle (because of that putrid little yellow cable).

I have also decided on a scientific construction and design methodology which as served humankind for thousand of years, the TLAR (that looks about right) method.

here i am scientifically measuring what i need to build. yep.. those are 2 x 12cm fans, one's also Panaflow. Both should push more than enough air to cool the LCD.

[LOOie]

hmm.. dont you just love it when great plans goes wrong.

i'm too embarrassed to post any pictures in this during this period. Here's a summary..

1. I have not done any wood working since high school. And now, I know why. I must have some physical defect because I just cannot cut in straight line, or if it is straight, its going to go in the wrong direction.

2. Just laying stuff out without any real planning is not really suffcient to fully visualize the final result. Things wont fit properly, derrr...

3. I do not have enough patience to split a fresnel lens. i hacked the corners off and pryed it apart with a screw driver. if you're not careful enough, you'll crack it... funnily enough, thats exactly what happend.

4. if you cut a fresnel with hacksaw, make sure it is properly secured or you will make an existing crack bigger, which is exactly what happened. if you're going to then try to superglue the crack together, DO NOT, because you're going put ugly white marks and finger prints around the crack making it stand out even more. Best yet, superglue doesnt seem to work on optical grade fresnel plastic anyway. Good thing I didn't try to testing this out on an off-cut piece first. arghhh..

5. Just when you're about 5mm away from perfect cut of the second half of the lens, the forces of the universe will conspire against you and put another huge crack in it.

6. Big, high RPM fans also means big noise and also at an annoying pitch too. Sticking fingers in them to feel how much air is going though them is a dumb idea.

7. Keep sharp things like screwdrivers FAR away from the LCD panels because LCDs have a some magical property to attract sharp things towards themselves. luckily, the scratch wasnt deep, just 5mm and not really noticable when projected.

8. Hmm.. there are stiff cables(not the flat ones) which connect the boards, you will need to make allowances if you dont want to stress them or thier connectors. this is a good thing to know because i totally did not even consider this so the frame i made was too small after i put the LCD in. yay..

9. super strength 5 minute expoxy glue really sets after 5 minutes... if you make a mistake with the glueing and rip the wood off, it will be the weak wood which will break, not the expoxy.

Soo.. after all this fun, I decided wisely that it would not be a good idea for me to try my luck with some glass. So I went to the hardware store to look for some clear perspex (plexiglass same thing?). I found some big sheet (window size) stuff they called clear acrylic and also some clear polycarbonate for a little bit more. I ended buying the polycarbonate, because it says 99% UV protection, which i guess is good think for LCDs.

I wasnt sure how much UV the halo light would put out but considerable I guess. As a bonus, it turns out that the polycarbonate seems a lot harder to scratch than I would have expected. It will also deflect a cricket ball or a brick thrown at it with full force according to the label. Always a useful property for a DIY projector

[LOOie]

Anyway.. i DID manage to get some results. here's my craptastic creation.

LCD is sandwiched between the fresnel i split. the top fresnel is raised above LCD about a 10mm to reduce rings appearing in the image.

[LOOie]

another of this fire hazard waiting to happen. this is my fan power supply salvaged from a PC carcass I had lying around.
12 cm fan and 8 cm fan, way more than enough cooling.

[LOOie]

yay it still works..

[LOOie]

and, finally, guys.. here are there results.


here tweaking the CMV1515, 9300k seems to be best provide the best color saturation for this OHP light. I had to tweak it a bit but I found out that the default settings plus this plus 100% contrast is perfect for my setup, 95% of the time.