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-   -   Sharp XG-MB70X DIY Ballast By-Pass / Mod for any Bulb / LED (http://www.diyaudio.com/forums/diy-projectors/226347-sharp-xg-mb70x-diy-ballast-pass-mod-any-bulb-led.html)

JodBronson 24th December 2012 12:23 PM

Sharp XG-MB70X DIY Ballast By-Pass / Mod for any Bulb / LED
 
Hi,

Here is how I by Pass the Ballast for the Sharp XG-MB70X or XGMB70XA

All you have to do is open you Projector and find the Ballast, under the Board with lots of Screws, LOL

Anyway, just solder the Optocouplers like in the Pix and you are all set. Just a NOTE: I tried the 1st one, didn't do anything, 2nd one = no and then I did the 3rd one... All of them and BANG it worked!

I will install an LED BULB in, after done, I will post some Pix with LED in it and also some helpful info...

Hope that this will help someone...

http://img692.imageshack.us/img692/3...torballast.jpg
Uploaded with ImageShack.us

Also the Manual on Page 19 is helpful:

http://diagramas.diagramasde.com/otros/XGMB70XA.pdf

niljaviya 24th December 2012 08:48 PM

hello sir,
Thanks for sharing information.....very helpful to who needed
a bit suggestion about LED
i am using 30W hi power LED with throw 2700LM ...which is technically
3 times powerful then 1200 LM (origianl projector light )
it work ok in complete dark room....but annoying ....don't like to watch continue..
i don't know you figure out about LED yet or not... but don't waste your money with
30W or 50W hi power LED ....atleast go with 100W 6500k

i am planning to upgrade to 100W hi power LED ...
which cost LED + Driver aprox $60 on Ebay

if you have more better idea about type of LED ...please share here it will help

thanks

JodBronson 28th December 2012 07:11 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by niljaviya (Post 3298153)
hello sir,
Thanks for sharing information.....very helpful to who needed
a bit suggestion about LED
i am using 30W hi power LED with throw 2700LM ...which is technically
3 times powerful then 1200 LM (origianl projector light )
it work ok in complete dark room....but annoying ....don't like to watch continue..
i don't know you figure out about LED yet or not... but don't waste your money with
30W or 50W hi power LED ....atleast go with 100W 6500k

i am planning to upgrade to 100W hi power LED ...
which cost LED + Driver aprox $60 on Ebay

if you have more better idea about type of LED ...please share here it will help

thanks

Hi, thankx for the Head's up about the LED. I bought a 20W LED 1600LM... I thought it would be enough :(

Have to see i guess.... But I think you are RIGHT. Not bright enough, and I think I'm gonna waste me money :(

I guess I have to look into 100W LED... The only downfall to that is that the Heatsink would be too big for the Replacement light bulb area...

I guess I have to see after playing with the 20W LED. If it's worth it, I will buy the 100W LED and try.

Thank you for the advice, I will have to post some Pix so you guys can see...

:D

niljaviya 2nd January 2013 11:40 PM

hi,
i also did mistake to buy 30W LED already waste my money.
but i learnt aprox calculation of lighting after i waste my money too.
it is good for 3LCD but i guess it is good for DLP tooo...

from Emmiter till reach LCD it consume 50% of power. 30% light allowed by LED to pass
This chinese s**T is not correct rated at all...LED always preferable to run lower amps than max rated.
so if your emmiter is 1600LM ( technically is 1200/1300 LM) 50% means 600 LM consumed till DMD chip and this chip allow probably 30% of 600LM means 180LM

i guess original pj lamp is aprox 16000LM ....PJ out put is rated 900-1200 LM
to acceptable vew you need above 500LM OUT put on screen....
compare 180LM with 500

this is aprox calculation to have an idea...

hope this will help...

i am also thinking on 100W LED too...good luck

JodBronson 3rd January 2013 08:07 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by niljaviya (Post 3308704)
hi,
i also did mistake to buy 30W LED already waste my money.
but i learnt aprox calculation of lighting after i waste my money too.
it is good for 3LCD but i guess it is good for DLP tooo...

from Emmiter till reach LCD it consume 50% of power. 30% light allowed by LED to pass
This chinese s**T is not correct rated at all...LED always preferable to run lower amps than max rated.
so if your emmiter is 1600LM ( technically is 1200/1300 LM) 50% means 600 LM consumed till DMD chip and this chip allow probably 30% of 600LM means 180LM

i guess original pj lamp is aprox 16000LM ....PJ out put is rated 900-1200 LM
to acceptable vew you need above 500LM OUT put on screen....
compare 180LM with 500

this is aprox calculation to have an idea...

hope this will help...

i am also thinking on 100W LED too...good luck

Hi, YES you are 100% Correct and YES I thought some of these things myself but don't really know how to caculate really, LOL. So ya some of thes would help me for sure....

Here is what I'm doing with mine...

1. Use the OLD BULB Housing as much as you can since it FITS in there pefectly.

2. Install the LED with the Heat Sink from Computer to FIT into the OLD Housing -the OLD BULB.

3. Install a 12V Fan on the Heat Sink, although you might NOT have to but just incase the LED is too HOT. Since there is a cooling System in there already. May NOT need too. But since there are 2 FANS. I will TAP into that ad run another 12V DC FAN on the Heat Sink.

4. Install an AC Inverter / Driver for the LED behind the FAN. This way you can use the OLD BULB Plug to get your 110V so you can Power the AC LED Inverter / Driver

5. If applicable, you would need to REMOVE the Power Cable from the PJ Ballast and hook that directly to the Main AC Power Supply. Some Soldering would need there... This is where I would ADD a SWITCH to turn the LED Off / On Manually. Its a Pain but I don't want tp mess with anything else... Since I'm NOT into electronic, I rather NOT mess with it too much.

I have attached some Pix of what I am doing... Although it's only 20W LED... If this turn out to be GOOD. I'm going to buy a 100W LED and the LED AC Driver.

I will post a pix of the finished product / Bulb soon.... doing it now... Have lot's of Cutting the Heat Sink and Holes drilling to do.

I hope that will spark some ideas for you!

JodBronson 3rd January 2013 08:48 PM

Pix
 
i forgot to attached some Pix

:D

First 3 Pix are for the Ballast and Power Lead to the Lamp

http://imageshack.us/a/img51/7774/sam0151id.jpg
http://imageshack.us/a/img705/1880/sam0152f.jpg
http://imageshack.us/a/img846/7012/sam0150sg.jpg


Last Pix is what I am planning....

http://imageshack.us/a/img841/5797/sam0158k.jpg


OLD BULB HOUSING + LED + HEAT SINK + 12V FAN + LED AC DRIVER + OLD BULB CABLE = FINISHED LAMP

JodBronson 4th January 2013 04:58 PM

Update - 20W LED is NO GOOD! LOL
 
I was able to Fit everything in the old Housing with it. Here are the Pix to Spark some of your ideas....

Although the LED was NOT bright enough, this is only a test... I just purchased a 100W LED with Lense + Driver for $57.00 on Ebay. I'm goning to use another Heat Sink off of a Computer. There are enough FANS in my Projector, it was cooling just fine with the 20W LED. It wasn't even WARM after shutdown. So I don't need to add another FAN to save room for a Larger LED 100W Driver.

Anyway, I'm gonna wait until that come in the Mail and then get some pix up for you guys...

:D

http://imageshack.us/a/img27/9912/sam0164h.jpg
http://imageshack.us/a/img51/360/sam0171l.jpg
http://imageshack.us/a/img6/6492/sam0172x.jpg

niljaviya 5th January 2013 12:30 AM

hi,
your optocoupler picture is tooo...blurry...i can't see anthing..
can you post it again..specially squre red line box surround area
thanks

............... most important thing.................
what did you decide for 100W cooling system ??
bcoz i found on other forum ...hi power LED must be operated under 45/50 C.
if temp. increase it try to drow more amps. ...low the life span.

most of recomend liquid cool syst. that run this LED aprox 38/40 C which is perfect.
if you just want to use solid aluminium(heat sink) must be minimum 8X3.5 inch with fan.

standard size pc processer's heat sink and fan will not work...

this is info. what i found from other forum ..i am sharing with you

JodBronson 7th January 2013 04:09 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by niljaviya (Post 3311593)
hi,
your optocoupler picture is tooo...blurry...i can't see anthing..
can you post it again..specially squre red line box surround area
thanks

............... most important thing.................
what did you decide for 100W cooling system ??
bcoz i found on other forum ...hi power LED must be operated under 45/50 C.
if temp. increase it try to drow more amps. ...low the life span.

most of recomend liquid cool syst. that run this LED aprox 38/40 C which is perfect.
if you just want to use solid aluminium(heat sink) must be minimum 8X3.5 inch with fan.

standard size pc processer's heat sink and fan will not work...

this is info. what i found from other forum ..i am sharing with you


Sorry, I put the PJ all back, can't take pix :( If you look at my first pix on thread, you can see the RED line across the Octocoupler.

Standard size Heat Sink will have to work. You have to understand HOW are you gonna fit an 8X3.5" in a 4.5" Space???

I\'m going to use a Standard PC Heat Sink, then use an EXTRA Small fan to cool it. Also, remember my PJ have 2 large fans in it already.

Anyway, you are 100% CORRECT but I have to work limited SPACE :(

We\'ll see how it goes when I\'m done... I post some pix when the LED gets here..

:D

niljaviya 8th January 2013 12:11 AM

hi,
i have a same problem , my 3M PJ also has limited opening for LED + heatsink,
but for 100W i am planning for water cooled system,
which will stay outside. only water block and LED will stay in box
curretly with my 30W LED i shave standard pc heatsink to fit in pJ box. after 30-40 minute of it is pretty much 50-55 degree. but won\'t work for 100W LED.

just sharing idea.


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