Ace_3000....pictures of Projector?

[ace3000_1]

i think after construction of the projector it would be usefuly to try this lens out or locate a zoom lens which has better performance than the copy - this would possibly be a good improvement.

Big $ my friend lol, the vari focal is good enogh, it will yeild a great picture, just not as sharp and clear as the copy lens.

Ill get a hold of one soon and make up a lens with the zoom function, at the moment ive got 30 billion things to do so it will have to hold off abit, i can get a hold of these in a bulk buy so ill be looking at who wants one soon.

They will also work in my design no probs so if you didnt get a copy lens, no sweat.

As for a small update, no doubt you guys are wondering on what the hell im doing lol, its been a while. Well at the moment ive been conducting tests on the lcds cooling, without cooling the lcd we can loose 15-25% of our brightness, well on this design anyway. In this design ive got the light engine so finley tuned and peaked that our lcd runs very hot, so we need to cool it. Ive got a special type of fan on the way that is high pressure and centrivical, i can get more of these so dont sweat it. Ill have that fan here at the end of next week so i can run its final test, and hopfully close the lcd unit once and for all. If your questioning weather the cdm-t 150w is bright enough, well its daytime right now, im on the projector and i can see it no probs at all, at night it realy comes out to life.

Now for the 250w version, im going to look into this design vary carfully regarding heat on the lcd, if this new fan is suficient which i think it will be we are all good, if not a new design will be in order for the extra cooling on the lcd. From the results of this bulb and its only 150w, i recon a 250w bulb in this machine will be mighty bright, daytime veiwing wont be a problem at all. I predict from various varibles that the 250w may be as much as 2x as bright as what it is now due to having a different light pattern (more suited) to having a clearer arc tube. Anyway guys ill keep you posted.

Trev

[tonydean]

hi, if your in the USA,
i have a few vari-focal lenses left, and others, that folks are
using for the ace or quasar style smaller projectors. i have
info and pics already up at diyvideo at:

http://www.diyaudio.com/forums/showt...&postid=354780

all the best tony

[11steve11]

Trev, i'm wondering, how long can someone expect the lcd panel to last, assuming that it was ripped and installed correctly in the project?

[Jones Rush]

Is there any reason to believe it will last less than it lasts as a monitor ?. I mean, as long as the temp near the LCD is kept cool, what else could harm it ?. Light in the wavelength between 400-700nm is harmless.

[ace3000_1]

Trev, i'm wondering, how long can someone expect the lcd panel to last, assuming that it was ripped and installed correctly in the project?

Heya buddy, i was talking to johnny the otherday about this actually when he asked me the same thing in an offline conversation.

A lcd will last UPTO 100000hrs, but ofcourse thats upto and not an average. On average they will last upto 80k hrs, how long a controller lasts im not to sure. If you feed it regulated power and look after the unit it should see you through the 80k hrs as a normal monitor.

Now with it being in a projector we have added heat and certain spectrums of the light band to kill it lol, so what we have to do is to eliminate each danger that will cause the lcd to loose its lifespan. The biggest problem is heat and UV light rays, a UV filter can stop about 80% of UV light but not all, infact it will be nearly impossible to stop all UV rays out of a metal halide light source, that is unless u dont turn it on lol.

So yeah we use a UV filter to stop the UV somewhat. In the bulb im using it has a UV filter built into the glass of the bulb, so this saves us having to buy any UV filter. The rated specs on the bulbs UV filtration is 70-80%, thats enough for what we need, and anymore would just be an over kill, and wouldnt buy us much lifetime if any.

What UV does to the lcd is break down 2 things, it actually breaks down the pigment in the colour filter which gives us a discolouration over time, and it also beleive it or not breaks down the liquid crystal, which results in the lcd failing due to the liquid crystal not twisting when its suposed to. Thats fairly common in pro projectors these days where we see a smudge mark on the screen, and is normally caused by the pro projector manufacturer not using any UV filters, or adequate cooling on the lcd.

From a studdy conducted by scientists a while ago, running a lcd projector for 3months continuos will slightly discolourise a lcd, but ofcourse, we dont have our projectors on 24/7, and running them for 6hrs at a time is fine as there are way less stresses then running it 24/7 for 3months lol.

Im not sure if that test was conducted with a uv filter in the projectors or not, but to be honest most pro projectors dont have any filters in the mid to low range, we have one and we use it in this design, and it will prolong the life of the lcd. At a rough guess, i would give the lcd atleast 5 years in this projector running it for 4hrs a day if not more, thats if the controller doesnt have any manufacturing faults, and it will also depend on the quality of the controller. As for dead pixels, ive never had one yet touch wood, and is generally a manufacturing fault.

Now we get to heat, lcds will fry at about 70 deg C, they will also stop working below -10 deg C. A warm lcd will run brighter then a cold lcd, that is a fact, but a hot lcd will run dark like a cold lcd will, this is due to the nature of the chemicals in the liquid crystal. Liquid crystals are also bio-organic i might add.

So realy for the best performance and life span on any lcd, the recomended temperature is 20-35 deg C, this will enhance our life span and we will also have the correct brightness/contrast as the lcd is operating in its specified manufacturing recomendations.

Cooling the lcd is very important, the reasons are above, also cooling a lcd evenly is very important due to expansion which can cause the lcd to crack or worp and give us dead pixels, or a dead lcd.

Just before i get into the cooling in my design, ill tell you another method of cooling the lcd without the importance of fan cooling, (although still recomended). The IR spectrum is what carries radiated heat, we can eliminate this with a IR filter, but IR filters will loose us light, both the cold mirror and clear heat glass. Heat glass isnt bad and doesnt loose much light, its also very exspensive. Ive had some here before, (both reflecting and passive), but it doesnt even compare to the qualities of a cold mirror. The problems with cold mirror is that its exspensive, they loose alittle bit of light, and we have to have a multi mirror light engine design, (that can be a real pain to setup with a condenser lens). All these mirrors loose light in the end, as much as 10% with fair quality mirrors will be lost, a loss we cant aford. If your going to ever use a IR filter, go for a cold mirror as they are alot more affective then the IR filter galss.

In my design im doing the lcd cooling as we speak, well kind of, im just waiting for a couple of special fans to get here so i can test and finnish the cooling off. I have designed it in a way for the lcd venting to cause a vortex around the corners of the lcd, this will help cool the corners where they normally would run hotter then the center. Also i have calculated out a few air calculations, ive changed low velocity airflow to a high velocity airflow over the lcd so that the air that enters in the one side will move very fast over the lcd to the other side exiting the vent. What this does is help to keep the air temperature relitivly the same from entering to exiting, this will help the lcd to stay the same temperature on both sides, we dont want one side hotter then the other. Although it is nearly imposible to get the both sides the exact same temp, ill give it 3deg variation in this design tops depending on ambiant air temp.

Ive also implemented the use of centrivical fans, these give us a 2-3x pressure rating more over a normal axial fan and also give us an even airflow where the axial type dont. Ever noticed when you put your hand behind a normal computer fan the air will flow back out the front? thats because it has low pressure, do that to a centrivical fan and less will come out of the front and you will feel more on your hand as it has a higher pressure. Whats my piont? well with a normal fan the pressure is too low to get air into a small gap, with a centrivical fan it has the pressure to push the air through, so now we have a high velocity air flow with the matching pressure to push the air along, resulting in a cooling system for a lcd thats relativly even and cold.

From tests, its alot more efficient and cooler then just putting a normal computer fan infront of the lcd, and that test was with a computer fan pushing air into the gap, (only 1/19.75th of the fans surface area mind you). The new fans when they arive will do the job very nicely with a higher pressure and airflow, and should provide more then enough cooling over the lcd at a quiet noise level.


Anyway buddy i hope it helped ya out abit.

Trev

[Furby]

CONGRATULATIONS

You've made a real great integration. Did you have a spare list and plan or scheme anywhere on this forum or on a site web ?

Bravo (we say in France

Furby

[bobharry]

He is going to be selling the plans, for the parts list go here

[bobharry]

Just like to let everyone to know that I hate either USPS or Royal Mail, whichever of the two has managed to lose two copy lenses in a row , do you have any left ace? because I don't think this one is coming (17 working days since it was sent).

[ace3000_1]

Just like to let everyone to know that I hate either USPS or Royal Mail, whichever of the two has managed to lose two copy lenses in a row , do you have any left ace? because I don't think this one is coming (17 working days since it was sent).

Heya buddy, yeah i got 6 of em lol im keeping 2 for me though and one is sold.

Trev

[ace3000_1]

You've made a real great integration. Did you have a spare list and plan or scheme anywhere on this forum or on a site web ?

Heya Furby, thanks for the nice words, ill have plans out soon, asoon as i get the new gear so i can make the apropiate modds.

Trev