Commercial Projector Ballast Bypass Guide - diyAudio
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Old 31st March 2009, 03:37 PM   #1
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Default Commercial Projector Ballast Bypass Guide

The ballast was pretty easy to bypass after some poking around with a multimeter.

***For those of you that are having trouble bypassing the ballast on any projector***

1 - Find the group of wires that come from the ballast to the main board.
2 - Power the projector on with NO lamp.
3 - Measure the voltages on all the wires connecting to the main board.
4 - Find the wire that is close to +3V
5 - Insert lamp (If you have one) and power on. Measure the voltage of this wire again. The voltage should be around 0V
6 - Connect the spot on the board where that wire connected to a ground on the main board.

This will bypass the lamps for 90% of projectors. It has worked for me on about 8 different models. All else fails just ground each wire and power on and see if the projector stays on. Remember that the wires coming from the board need to be grounded NOT the wires coming from the ballast.

This seems to be a frequent question/problem. Maybe this can be made into a sticky since commercial modding is getting popular.
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Old 5th April 2009, 02:27 PM   #2
cfeole is offline cfeole  United States
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Simply outstanding!!!! I have a Panasonic ptae100 and will attempt to follow these directions. Will post pictures as a learning experience for all.
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Old 5th April 2009, 03:31 PM   #3
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Posting pictures and directions for each projector is a great idea. I will start with 3 that I have done. This will develop into a great thread with all that information.
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Old 6th April 2009, 12:39 AM   #4
cfeole is offline cfeole  United States
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Are these the wires you may be talking about?
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File Type: jpg p4050089.jpg (73.8 KB, 1904 views)
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Old 6th April 2009, 01:36 AM   #5
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The ones on the right probably. Does that go to the ballast?
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Old 6th April 2009, 10:06 AM   #6
cfeole is offline cfeole  United States
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Yes I believe they do. I will take more pictures with the boards removed so you can see the lay out of the panasonic. I measured voltage on the connector on the right, to be exact the left most white wire. It had 3.5 volts with lamp out power on, and 120 volts with the lamp in and on. When I tried to unplug the connector to attach jumper the lamp shut off. I tried to unplug the blue wired connector and lamp got brighter then shut off.
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Old 6th April 2009, 02:04 PM   #7
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The blue wires are the main power for the fans and the main board. The ballast is what connects to the lamp the ballast should have a power in connector then 3 4 or 5 wires going from the ballast to the main board. There should never be 120V in those wires.

Try unplugging the connector from the ballast then shove a small pin or staple into the connector end and with each wire touch that to a known ground spot like a screw head. Power the projector on if it stays on then thats your wire.....if not move to the next wire.

The ballast will not power on with that wire removed but the projector should stay on with no errors when you find the correct wire.
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Old 6th April 2009, 05:33 PM   #8
DonoMan is offline DonoMan  United States
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You sure a resistor shouldn't be used?
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Old 6th April 2009, 09:44 PM   #9
cfeole is offline cfeole  United States
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I see what you are saying now. Will try this tonight, then post results.
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Old 7th April 2009, 12:03 AM   #10
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Quote:
Originally posted by DonoMan
You sure a resistor shouldn't be used?

I dont use them anymore....If you feel it safer use a 10ohm resistor. Ground is ground all the main board is looking for is the signal on that pin to be pulled low....aka grounded.
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