Re: Hitachi PJ-TX100
I read this and kinda frown. Did you follow the steps exactly as posted?
Look for the ballast. Theres 2 sets of wires. Main Power 360V and the control wires. Unplug them from the ballast and find the correct wire to ground.
Please everyone give me feedback if my instructions are not clear maybe I will make a video on how this is done.
barambulli said:
I read this and kinda frown. Did you follow the steps exactly as posted?
Look for the ballast. Theres 2 sets of wires. Main Power 360V and the control wires. Unplug them from the ballast and find the correct wire to ground.
Please everyone give me feedback if my instructions are not clear maybe I will make a video on how this is done.
Hello all, i have a problem when bypassing the ballast on my 3M MP7630
it have 3 wire (black-red-brown)from the ballast to the main power supply. and 2 big wire to supply the power to the ballast
(mainboard)----(power supply)----(ballast)
first i remowe the ballast from the power supply, and then i try to grounding each one of the three wire, but something happend, the pcb line in the power supply get burn
. do i grounding the wrong cable ??
if someone had succeed on bypassing the 3M mp7630 PJ , please help me ..
it have 3 wire (black-red-brown)from the ballast to the main power supply. and 2 big wire to supply the power to the ballast
(mainboard)----(power supply)----(ballast)
first i remowe the ballast from the power supply, and then i try to grounding each one of the three wire, but something happend, the pcb line in the power supply get burn
. do i grounding the wrong cable ?? if someone had succeed on bypassing the 3M mp7630 PJ , please help me ..
I've just done this successfully. However I'm a bit worried about the ballast still being intact.
On my projector (NEC VT440) the ballast is buried deep inside and really inaccessible. I didn't want to completely dismantle the projector so I measured all the voltages with projector intact, found one that was +3.33V without the lamp and 0.03V with the lamp. I then cut just that wire and attached it to the steel housing of the power supply to ground it (as it was the easiest option) and it works perfectly.
I'm worried about burning out my mainboard long term due to having cut just one wire, leaving everything else intact and connected. Is that a problem or will it be fine if I leave everything intact? Do I HAVE to disconnect the ballast??
Thanks
On my projector (NEC VT440) the ballast is buried deep inside and really inaccessible. I didn't want to completely dismantle the projector so I measured all the voltages with projector intact, found one that was +3.33V without the lamp and 0.03V with the lamp. I then cut just that wire and attached it to the steel housing of the power supply to ground it (as it was the easiest option) and it works perfectly.
I'm worried about burning out my mainboard long term due to having cut just one wire, leaving everything else intact and connected. Is that a problem or will it be fine if I leave everything intact? Do I HAVE to disconnect the ballast??
Thanks
I'm new to this forum so apologies up front if I state the obvious or sound a complete dipstick!
I've been looking around as my Infocus IN72 has suddenly stopped working. I've replaced the bulb but all that happens is that it attempts to fire up and the bulb lights but with no real power. Scanning the internet, the ballast appears most likely problem and this thread seems to imply that the ballast can be bypassed. However I'm a wee bit confuse that it's possible to simply bypass the ballast. If that's the case why is it there in the first place? Or am I just missing something very obvious.
I'm a novice where projectors are concerned and won't poke around without doing the research. So any advice / info will be greatly appreciated.
I've been looking around as my Infocus IN72 has suddenly stopped working. I've replaced the bulb but all that happens is that it attempts to fire up and the bulb lights but with no real power. Scanning the internet, the ballast appears most likely problem and this thread seems to imply that the ballast can be bypassed. However I'm a wee bit confuse that it's possible to simply bypass the ballast. If that's the case why is it there in the first place? Or am I just missing something very obvious.
I'm a novice where projectors are concerned and won't poke around without doing the research. So any advice / info will be greatly appreciated.
Bypassing Ballast of Epson Powerlite 74c
Hello All,
I have an Epson Powerlite 74c, and cant get it to run
! I've searched out all the wires going to the ballast, and the ones around 3v I grounded one at a time, but to no success. I've attached a picture of the main board with all it's connections and readings. Red arrows are the pins that I have tried grounding, and the green arrow is the screw that I used as a ground. X's in the big 22 pin plug are very small, sometimes negative values. Less than 1 volt magnitude.
I do not have a working, nor a non-working bulb. For the time being, I am using an external light source.
Each wire yielded the same result when grounded. The projector will not power on when these wires are connected to a ground.
If all wires are connected in their propper place, the projector would turn on, wait for a 30 second period in which the light is supposed to warm up, then would light the lamp fault signal.
If one of the wires I was testing was removed and not grounded, the projector goes through the same boot process as if all wires were properly connected.
The image I attached displays the lamp-cover voltage as if the door is open. When the switch is tripped, they both read ground. I have the switch tripped for all my testing.
Anybody have any advice? ....Please?
Hello All,
I have an Epson Powerlite 74c, and cant get it to run
! I've searched out all the wires going to the ballast, and the ones around 3v I grounded one at a time, but to no success. I've attached a picture of the main board with all it's connections and readings. Red arrows are the pins that I have tried grounding, and the green arrow is the screw that I used as a ground. X's in the big 22 pin plug are very small, sometimes negative values. Less than 1 volt magnitude.I do not have a working, nor a non-working bulb. For the time being, I am using an external light source.
Each wire yielded the same result when grounded. The projector will not power on when these wires are connected to a ground.
If all wires are connected in their propper place, the projector would turn on, wait for a 30 second period in which the light is supposed to warm up, then would light the lamp fault signal.
If one of the wires I was testing was removed and not grounded, the projector goes through the same boot process as if all wires were properly connected.
The image I attached displays the lamp-cover voltage as if the door is open. When the switch is tripped, they both read ground. I have the switch tripped for all my testing.
Anybody have any advice? ....Please?