Just an idea I had for a cooling system. Thank to my chinchilla guizmo
Those creatures are in danger if the place is 30 celcius degrees or more. So a trick that we use is putting a stell plate with ice cubes in it so it does cold radiation. A fan don't do cold radiation, it don't do any cold at all. Cold by wind or air flow is a perception for us because we swet. So they don't swet, so fan just don't cool them.
Anyway, I'll try to build the wall of cold in my project. I'll put 3 fans on each side, so 6 totals. Half pushing air in, other half pulling air out. I'll do little enplacement near the pushing fans to place ice cubes, so cold radiation can be send in. I'll post some pics as soon I've finish my plans. Oh and.. I changed my reflector once again. I'll be using a spherical reflector that will be the same size of the flesnel, with the light place at radius / 2.
An externally hosted image should be here but it was not working when we last tested it.
Those creatures are in danger if the place is 30 celcius degrees or more. So a trick that we use is putting a stell plate with ice cubes in it so it does cold radiation. A fan don't do cold radiation, it don't do any cold at all. Cold by wind or air flow is a perception for us because we swet. So they don't swet, so fan just don't cool them.
Anyway, I'll try to build the wall of cold in my project. I'll put 3 fans on each side, so 6 totals. Half pushing air in, other half pulling air out. I'll do little enplacement near the pushing fans to place ice cubes, so cold radiation can be send in. I'll post some pics as soon I've finish my plans. Oh and.. I changed my reflector once again. I'll be using a spherical reflector that will be the same size of the flesnel, with the light place at radius / 2.
Here is my new plan.
The reflector is spherical with light point at r/2 with side panel for more reflecting zone ( will work as a mirror )
The red zone is the lost light, 'cause of the cooling system
An externally hosted image should be here but it was not working when we last tested it.
The reflector is spherical with light point at r/2 with side panel for more reflecting zone ( will work as a mirror )
The red zone is the lost light, 'cause of the cooling system
Hmmm, sounds like a good idea, but the only concerns would be making sure whatever is containing the ice cubes does not leak at all. Even if it doesnt leak on anything electrical it can prove to be a kick in the pants if you don't notice it and so don't clean it regularily (mould). The other problem would be emptying the melted ice and replacing it after every use. Other than that it's a good idea. Can't see why it wouldnt work. Your basically doing the exact same thing as everyone else but with cool air.
The logic behind your idea is sort of like an air conditioner actually. And so you don't need to use ice, you can use just water. This will still cool down the air.
Or for a short reply: Good idea.
Ofcourse though all I've just said could be stupidly ignorant and portray me as the dumb bastard that I am
Hope this helps
The logic behind your idea is sort of like an air conditioner actually. And so you don't need to use ice, you can use just water. This will still cool down the air.
Or for a short reply: Good idea.
Ofcourse though all I've just said could be stupidly ignorant and portray me as the dumb bastard that I am
Hope this helps
gui_999 said:
Good idea. six fans will be a LITTLE bit noisy. Ice cubes are not necessary. If the normal room temp is 22C, the lamp chamber is 100C without cooling (greatly under-estimated), you are using 22C air to cool 100C environment; using ice cubes, it is 0C air to cool 100C enviroment. it is an improvement, but not very much and expensive (if water leaks).
in the case of animal, 0C cooling 30C is much better than 22C cooling 30C of course.
i dont think this is a good idea because of the moisture you'll be introducing into your system.
How long do you think ice will last when placed over a heat source like a MH lamp? I'd say a minute or two before it melts into your system and ZAAAAP!.
A good idea would be to use something like what over-clocked pcs are using to cool down, One of those "chillers" or "water blocks" but to cool down the lamp. Only problem i see is how it can be attached to a lamp.
A long time ago i saw a liquid made by G.E (i think) that is fluid like water but it doesnt conduct electricity. I saw the company dip a running computer into it and it didnt do anything to the PC,
They said it had certain properties that it wouldnt let it conduct electricity and conducts heat transfer very well. Its really expensive at around $200 a gallon but imagine dipping your whole system into something like that.... no fans, only a fluid pump and a radiator to disipitate heat (typo?)
justa though,
ap0
How long do you think ice will last when placed over a heat source like a MH lamp? I'd say a minute or two before it melts into your system and ZAAAAP!.
A good idea would be to use something like what over-clocked pcs are using to cool down, One of those "chillers" or "water blocks" but to cool down the lamp. Only problem i see is how it can be attached to a lamp.
A long time ago i saw a liquid made by G.E (i think) that is fluid like water but it doesnt conduct electricity. I saw the company dip a running computer into it and it didnt do anything to the PC,
They said it had certain properties that it wouldnt let it conduct electricity and conducts heat transfer very well. Its really expensive at around $200 a gallon but imagine dipping your whole system into something like that.... no fans, only a fluid pump and a radiator to disipitate heat (typo?)
justa though,
ap0
Tall Shadow,
good point. Perhaps he could filter the water vapour out of the air somehow without it losing its cool temperature?
ap0the0sis,
im not sure, but I dont think he meant that the ice cubes would be placed over his light source, but on a compartment on the outside of it perhaps? or to the side of it even.
Turning to computer overclockers however is a good idea. Overclocking requires simple methods such as fans, to extravagent ideas such as liquid nitrogen being placed on top of it while the cold air falls over the system. No idea about maintanace or price though.
good point. Perhaps he could filter the water vapour out of the air somehow without it losing its cool temperature?
ap0the0sis,
im not sure, but I dont think he meant that the ice cubes would be placed over his light source, but on a compartment on the outside of it perhaps? or to the side of it even.
Turning to computer overclockers however is a good idea. Overclocking requires simple methods such as fans, to extravagent ideas such as liquid nitrogen being placed on top of it while the cold air falls over the system. No idea about maintanace or price though.
Why not use a Peltier device to cool the air? These devices are effectively solid state heat pumps i.e. put a current through them and they get very hot on one side and very cold on the other. With the correct heatsinks can be very effective. I've used a 12 volt one to make a small environmental chamber that went from -10 to +60 degrees centigrade (using PWM control - but don't need to be that fancy for an LCD cooler).
For more info look here: http://www.peltier-info.com/
Incidently you can also use these devices in reverse. Put a temperature differential across them and they generate electricity
For more info look here: http://www.peltier-info.com/
Incidently you can also use these devices in reverse. Put a temperature differential across them and they generate electricity
Ice+Fan=Humidity!
Humidity+Electronics=Bad News!
Bad News+Your Project(s)=$$$$$$$$
Just a thought/warning,
Tall Shadow
************
Only if the humidity condenses back to water. Lots of electronic stuff is rated to 95% humidity *non-condensing*. If the thing you are cooling is still warmish it will be ok, otherwise it will look like the outside of a cold beer glass on a hot day.
Humidity+Electronics=Bad News!
Bad News+Your Project(s)=$$$$$$$$
Just a thought/warning,
Tall Shadow
************
Only if the humidity condenses back to water. Lots of electronic stuff is rated to 95% humidity *non-condensing*. If the thing you are cooling is still warmish it will be ok, otherwise it will look like the outside of a cold beer glass on a hot day.
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