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Old 14th January 2009, 08:09 AM   #11
diyAudio Member
 
Join Date: Jul 2004
Location: Hayward, CA
Here's something odd- and hopefully a good thing.

I did this to the old lamp- I took a piece of wire and connected the two, essentially making closing the loop on the current. Thinking nothing else would happen, I was surprised that zoom and focus functions work (they're powered on this pj) so something must be happening. I didn't test it for very long but perhaps on this particular pj that is all that is needed.

Click the image to open in full size.

However, I could also eventually burn up the pj and that would be that

Victor
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Old 14th January 2009, 02:33 PM   #12
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thats a dangerous way to bypass the ballast and it might fry it. You need the lamp reflector anyways so undo that. If the lamp is fried carefully remove the lamp so you only have the reflector and housing.

Follow my guide for ballast bypass and remove the ballast if its seperate. I will scan ur pictures better and see what I can see.

Things that aslo can be bypassed is the Lamp door and thermal switches.
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Old 14th January 2009, 05:40 PM   #13
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Default thanks for the info

Thats what I thought. If you need more photos or better res let me know.

Victor
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Old 21st January 2009, 07:51 AM   #14
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Well, it appears my projector fried while I was checking with the multimeter.

Back to the drawing board.

Crazifunguy, if I were to look for a broken projector which ones did you retrofit successfully?

Victor
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Old 22nd January 2009, 12:29 PM   #15
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Infocus X series are good ones to do but it is hard to find them with the bad lamp still inside. When you say fried.....did something smoke or did you just pop the fuse?
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Old 22nd January 2009, 04:31 PM   #16
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I saw something spark (and perhaps some arcing) but nothing works. I could always gut the lens for a new projector
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Old 5th February 2009, 07:50 PM   #17
tha84 is offline tha84  Greece
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Hi guys. Crazifunguy could you please tell me how to bypass the ballast in infocus x1 projector. I have a dead bulb so i can't measure voltages. Could you please sent me exactly what to do and if you have photos...... Thank you !
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Old 17th February 2009, 03:03 AM   #18
smithgi is offline smithgi  Australia
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Default Ballast bypass for Infocus lp120

I tried your suggested method for thwe Infocus LP120, but can't seem to get it to work. Theres 5 wires leading from the ballast to the main board with varying voltages , some below , some above 3v and non of these seem to work.

I can get the projector to come on if I plug my Kettle into the bulb socket, and can even make a cup of tea after about 2 hours of it running. I'm not entirely sure that my Kettle likes having several kv running throught it, but well, it made me smile when it worked.

Any ideas??
Attached Images
File Type: jpg ballastpic.jpg (71.7 KB, 207 views)
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Old 17th February 2010, 06:40 PM   #19
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Default tw600 Lamp Bypass

Hello everybody
I found an epson epm-tw600 projector with a broken lamp. After reading a few topics in the forum for bypassing the lamp i measured the voltage in the main board . I found two places where the voltage was 3.3 v. The one was at 11-pin connector (mainboard-power supply) and the other was at a connector called "SCI" which goes to the power supply.
Here are my questions:
A) By bypassing the lamp the whole system will work as it would have a lamp?
B) Could i connect any 220V-100W lamp in the projectors pins or should i use an external power supply for the lamp?
C) What sould i do with the 3.3 v connectors?
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Old 20th February 2010, 01:42 PM   #20
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Hello paparia,
I have Epson EMP 50 and there is on the board connector SCI as you have. I found there on pin 3 something like 2.8V. So I connected this pin to GND and it works. The pj stay ON.
But now I have another problem with a bulb. I tried some power leds, HID from a car, but the results are little bit funny . The best picture I've reached is about 10inch when is totaly dark .
The original bulb has 150W.
I can not found any information how to replace the bulb for any other but I have an idea what wanna try.

I found this halogenid bulb:
Takeit: Halogenidová výbojka OSRAM HQI-TS 150W v barvě WDL/NDL/D patice RX7s
She has 150W and 12000 lumens, the price is about 19$.

To power this bulb I will need this ballast:
Předřadník pro sodíkové a halogenidové výbojky 150W, 220-240V, 147x47x65mm Tridonic, 20568863 - E-LIGHT.cz
price is about 38$

What do you think abou it?
Jeff
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