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#21 |
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diyAudio Member
Join Date: Jun 2002
Location: non
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no no no. dont scope a startup pulse.
there are 0.1uf 400v starter charge pump caps that need looked at, along with the coupling cap. youll need an analog ESR meter to read these for opens. on a TENMA brand analog ESR meter, they will check somewhere around 20 ohms. if the needle barely moves, or doesnt move at all (assuming the meter is calibrated). then the cap is bad and should be replaced. |
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#22 |
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diyAudio Member
Join Date: Jun 2002
Location: non
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Yes theres an inductor in series with the circuit, on most magnatek infocus supplies, you have a big black elongated coil with the lamp wires coming out.
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#23 |
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diyAudio Member
Join Date: Dec 2008
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I also have some (4) LP600's that are dead. If there is someone on this thread willing to repair the power board, please let me know. I am willing to buy a new board or send in my old for repair.
Mike |
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#24 | |
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diyAudio Member
Join Date: Sep 2008
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SUCCESS! Replacing the output caps with high ESR allowed the supply to start and run just fine. They were difficult to find but the 105o parts were used to try to extend the power supply life.
ROOT CAUSE of FAILURE: There is really nothing wrong with the Magnetek power supply design. However, the InFocus system design has a serious flaw in the power supply cooling when the unit is in standby ( only whatever convection cooling is available). So the unit that sits in standby for a period of time bakes the caps and one day, the baked caps in the control loop are in such bad condition, the supply cannot start up if it ever loses power. If you have these projectors installed permanently, remove the power completely when not in use. The lightning bolts at InFocus should warn the user about the issue. Thanks again daGimp for the lead. Quote:
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#25 |
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diyAudio Member
Join Date: Jun 2002
Location: non
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You are correct to some extent, but your analysis is wrong.
there IS a design flaw to the infocus magnatek power supply. If you look, the only cap that actually goes bad is the 100uf cap right behind the chopper controller output IC. Why? if you look, for one, this chip has no heatsink, and 2, the capacitor is right behind it directly against it. this allows the heat to transfer from the chip streight into the capacitor, almost like they did this directly on purpose so it will fail soon. remedy for that is to put the new capacitor in, but only push it in a little bit, soldering it in. which will have super long leads. then bend the capacitor over, away from the heat of the IC. problem solved. |
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#26 |
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diyAudio Member
Join Date: Feb 2009
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MBATES14 I have a 340b and the power supply is blown can you help me with this problem? Thanks feel free to email me.
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#27 |
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diyAudio Member
Join Date: Jun 2002
Location: non
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I dont like working with the 340s too much anymore becuase of the silicone mess they put on the power supply. i go through 3 razor blades and a half hour just to get it off enough to work with.
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#28 |
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diyAudio Member
Join Date: Feb 2009
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Yes, it works for me too!
Replace four 100uF/16v/85'C and one 4.7uF/35V/85'C electrolytic capacitors to new 105'C caps. |
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#29 | |
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diyAudio Member
Join Date: Mar 2009
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Quote:
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#30 |
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diyAudio Member
Join Date: Jun 2009
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This projector is kicking my butt.. Same problem, worked fine, power went out no lights.. Managed to get it going a few months ago was fine until power outage then back to same problem.
Where do I get these caps? I have a kids party in a few weeks and would like to give it a shot before I pull the trigger on a new one.. Or of anyone out there does a repair at a reasonable rate?? Thanks, Chuck |
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