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Old 26th April 2012, 02:29 PM   #301
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Join Date: May 2003
Location: UK
How about skipping the volume controller altogether and putting an TVC or AVC on the output? You wouldn't need to swap outputs for sources with different output levels and any noise from the DHTs would be attenuated along with the signal. You'd need to use an external chassis.

Last edited by clivetjm; 26th April 2012 at 02:35 PM.
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Old 26th April 2012, 02:55 PM   #302
Previously: Kuei Yang Wang
 
Join Date: Nov 2002
Hi,

Quote:
Originally Posted by lightdivine View Post
But the other leds on the other modules can they be removed safely without using zeners???? Or any of the leds.
Yes. Usual Caveats re. Warranty etc. apply of course, especially as a lot of SMD stuff is used

Quote:
Originally Posted by lightdivine View Post
Would a zener sound better in any of these positions??
Doubtful.

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Originally Posted by lightdivine View Post
Another question: can i use a 10y instead of the 45 tubes and if so how do i reconfigure the unit or change voltages??
The simple and short answer is no. The more complex answer is very complex.

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Originally Posted by lightdivine View Post
Do you think there may be any improvement using a stepped attenuator (such as the cosmo) over the volume controller the unit comes with??? How good is the supplied volume control???
We had Alps "Black Beauty" Pot in the original, what is supplies is better than that. In principle you can replace it, but the required wiring etc. may negate any benefit and expose you to noise issues.

Ciao T
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Old 30th April 2012, 12:54 PM   #303
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Join Date: Jan 2002
Location: Boston, USA
Quote:
Originally Posted by ThorstenL View Post
Hi,



Check all the front panel connections and see if the rotary encoders took a knock.

Ciao T
A week later....

I finally had some time to follow up on Thorsten's suggestion and it turned out to be a loose multi-lead connector from/to the PS.

Should have figured this one out myself again......but thanks a lot for the encouragement and advice.

Ciao
Joerg
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Old 30th April 2012, 01:44 PM   #304
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Join Date: Oct 2011
Smile Lead free solder

Hi guys.

Thanks so much for your responses so far.

I love the tram as does my mate who also has one and we want to try and get even another couple of percent out of its performance if possible.

Does anyone know if lead free solder was used anywhere/ everywhere on the Tram 2 pre?

If it is lead free is there any way to remove it??

Also, i still would like to know what the replacement value the pot must be on the Tram 2 if i was to replace the volume control unit.

All products have financial constraints placed on them. What would be a couple of quick improvements we could make (coupling caps like duelands or others as an example)??

Thanks everyone. I love this pre!!!
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Old 2nd May 2012, 09:36 PM   #305
Desmo is offline Desmo  Denmark
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Location: Aarhus
Quote:
Originally Posted by lightdivine View Post
Hi guys.

Thanks so much for your responses so far.

I love the tram as does my mate who also has one and we want to try and get even another couple of percent out of its performance if possible.

Does anyone know if lead free solder was used anywhere/ everywhere on the Tram 2 pre?

If it is lead free is there any way to remove it??

Also, i still would like to know what the replacement value the pot must be on the Tram 2 if i was to replace the volume control unit.

All products have financial constraints placed on them. What would be a couple of quick improvements we could make (coupling caps like duelands or others as an example)??

Thanks everyone. I love this pre!!!
Might I suggest, that you actually read this thread from begging to end instead of just asking ''the upgrade question''? There are several possible upgrades mentioned already, I myself has done quite a few upgrates that you can read about from page 9 to around 14. Nothing fancy and nothing changed in the design, but just stuff that can be done when not having to consider a market price point.

Another suggestion would be to focus on upgrades where they actually matter. Not to be offensive in anyway, but forget the nonsense about skipping all the LED's, trying to get rid of the solder etc etc...

BTW, here in Denmark where the capacitors are made, we call them Duelund

Good luck - it's an amazing preamp
Morten

Last edited by Desmo; 2nd May 2012 at 09:41 PM.
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Old 2nd June 2012, 10:47 PM   #306
Desmo is offline Desmo  Denmark
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OK... Finally I got around to do something about the heat issues when running 2A3 tubes in the Tram 2... I kept getting noise and a tendency to low frequency oscillation because the small heatsinks on the heater supplies get crazy hot. I wanted a more substantial solution than attaching additional small heatsinks to the existing ones, so I made this..! If this does not work - no heat sink will work

It's late at night here so the light is bad, the close up picture shows nylon spacers between the bottom of the heatsink and the top of the circuit boards to make sure there can be no shorts. The heatsink is boltet to the circuit boards through the holes where the old heat sinks were soldered to the circuit boards, so the construction is totally stable.

Time for bed now, I will adjust it and get it back in the system in the morning


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Last edited by Desmo; 2nd June 2012 at 10:50 PM.
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Old 3rd June 2012, 07:19 AM   #307
gjm is offline gjm  United Kingdom
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Nice work, sir!
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Old 3rd June 2012, 09:55 AM   #308
Desmo is offline Desmo  Denmark
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Thanks..! It was actually quite a bit of work making the heatsink fit, but it was worth the effort

I'm now adjusting the preamp while it's sitting here on my work table and I can only say that this is a cool solution The heatsink is of course still hot, but it's obvious from touching it, that it's several degrees cooler.

Here are a few pics taken in daylight that shows the installation a bit better.

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Old 6th June 2012, 03:51 PM   #309
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Join Date: Jan 2002
Location: Boston, USA
Hi,

After playing nicely for a few weeks unfortunately i will need some advice regarding my TRAM2 again:
It plays nicely for a few minutes and then slowly the right channel disappears within 30 or so minutes. A not very loud hum appears on the onset and will be the only audible sound later on. After turning the line stage of, letting it settle a bit the same scenario can be repeated, maybe things happening a little faster.
I have swapped all the tubes and it does not follow a tube or disappears with a new one.

Any suggestion will be appreciated.

Ciao

Joerg
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Old 6th June 2012, 04:49 PM   #310
Desmo is offline Desmo  Denmark
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Have you checked if the heater voltage is 2,5V DC on both tubes?
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