Mission PCM7000 parts needed

DaveNZ · 9th March 2007, 07:17 AM

Hi all, I've got a Mission PCM7000 that has a clock issue (I think). I know there are some models of Marantz and Philips that share circuitry, what models should I be looking for? Was thinking about using the audio board from the Mission with the drive board from whatever I can get. I still think the PCM7000 is a good sounding machine, or should I just bin it?

Thanks..........

DaveNZ · 11th March 2007, 07:27 AM

Someone must know...........

stoolpigeon · 11th March 2007, 09:09 AM

I have a PCMII somewhere which is from the same time and I believe the main pcb is similar to a Marantz CD56 or Philips CD650. Just Google Philips CD650 on Images and you will see photos of the internals.

But what's wrong with it?

My recollection is that these machines have the servo pcb mounted beneath the laser and it is this part which can have problems. The trouble is (being Philips) there are quite a few variations of servo pcb and main pcb.

rfbrw · 11th March 2007, 12:30 PM

Quote:

Originally posted by DaveNZ
Hi all, I've got a Mission PCM7000 that has a clock issue (I think). I know there are some models of Marantz and Philips that share circuitry, what models should I be looking for? Was thinking about using the audio board from the Mission with the drive board from whatever I can get. I still think the PCM7000 is a good sounding machine, or should I just bin it?

Thanks..........

What is the clock issue and what chipset does it use ?

stephensank · 12th March 2007, 05:13 AM

I believe the nearest players are Magnavox FD1040, McIntosh MCD7000 and Bang & Olusen CDX.
Almost all symptoms one can get with any of these are caused by cracked/cold solder joints on the upper main board(servo & signal proc), ESPECIALLY & infamously the solder "blobs" that are used to connect the bottom side foil traces to the top side groundplane foil. These are easily found from the top side, and should be resoldered from both top & bottom to assure solid through connection. Even better, stick a piece of wire through each hole(while solder is molten or removed) & then re-solder. Then resolder everything on all boards that looks even slightly suspicious.
About the only other thing slightly common on these is wear on the bottom bearing of the platter motor, which can be adjusted to compensate for material loss.

9th March 2007, 07:17 AM	#1
DaveNZ diyAudio Member Join Date: Aug 2004 Location: Whakatane	Mission PCM7000 parts needed Hi all, I've got a Mission PCM7000 that has a clock issue (I think). I know there are some models of Marantz and Philips that share circuitry, what models should I be looking for? Was thinking about using the audio board from the Mission with the drive board from whatever I can get. I still think the PCM7000 is a good sounding machine, or should I just bin it? Thanks..........

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11th March 2007, 07:27 AM	#2
DaveNZ diyAudio Member Join Date: Aug 2004 Location: Whakatane	Someone must know...........

11th March 2007, 09:09 AM	#3
stoolpigeon diyAudio Member Join Date: Feb 2007 Location: Laputa	I have a PCMII somewhere which is from the same time and I believe the main pcb is similar to a Marantz CD56 or Philips CD650. Just Google Philips CD650 on Images and you will see photos of the internals. But what's wrong with it? My recollection is that these machines have the servo pcb mounted beneath the laser and it is this part which can have problems. The trouble is (being Philips) there are quite a few variations of servo pcb and main pcb.

12th March 2007, 05:13 AM	#5
stephensank diyAudio Member Join Date: Oct 2006	I believe the nearest players are Magnavox FD1040, McIntosh MCD7000 and Bang & Olusen CDX. Almost all symptoms one can get with any of these are caused by cracked/cold solder joints on the upper main board(servo & signal proc), ESPECIALLY & infamously the solder "blobs" that are used to connect the bottom side foil traces to the top side groundplane foil. These are easily found from the top side, and should be resoldered from both top & bottom to assure solid through connection. Even better, stick a piece of wire through each hole(while solder is molten or removed) & then re-solder. Then resolder everything on all boards that looks even slightly suspicious. About the only other thing slightly common on these is wear on the bottom bearing of the platter motor, which can be adjusted to compensate for material loss.

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