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Old 3rd January 2013, 05:59 PM   #61
WAR415 is offline WAR415  United States
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I found a schematic from HiFi engine. Assuming everything is good with the power transformer on the main PCB the voltage supply section there are five IC 20,21,22,23,24 three pin voltage regulators. If one of them failed from a short circuit that supply's voltage to the processor PCB this would cause it to not work at all no display nothing. Remove the cover and let it run for about 20 mins. Check each regulator by touch if it is warm its good if its cold then its most likely dead and then you have to find the cause.
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Old 3rd January 2013, 06:28 PM   #62
DJEB is offline DJEB  Netherlands
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This one?
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Old 28th August 2013, 10:39 PM   #63
tommy_o is offline tommy_o  United States
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Quote:
Originally Posted by GJF View Post
Turn player upside down.
Remove front right and left screws from bottom panel.
Loosen the remaining nine screws and slide the bottom panel towards the rear until screw heads are released by the slots and remove bottom panel.
Tray loading motor is on right hand side.
Fit new belt or if your lazy like me, two rubber bands of an appropiate size.
Refit bottom panel and try.
If all is fine, pour one large drink, put favourite disc on, kick back and enjoy!

Hopefully photos will show what I mean and also some of the re-capping I've done.
I just picked up a DP-1000 that's in great shape. Can you detail the mods that you did? Thanks!
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Old 9th October 2013, 09:48 AM   #64
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I've modded a Kenwood DP-1001 with discrete opamps and upgrades to electrolytics and film caps - a brief outline is here:

LF03 discrete opamp

However, this model appears to be significantly different from the pictures of the DP-1000 in this thread - this was apparently sold mostly in Japan and Asia, and it has very solid build quality, with all mechanicals fully functional even after 25+ years.
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