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Old 26th December 2002, 12:27 PM   #1
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Default dampening

Has anyone here had success with dampening their CD players?

I believe I have had success with using blu-tack and dynamat..

I did a search - but these forums contain very few references to dampening/damping.
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Old 26th December 2002, 02:15 PM   #2
halojoy is offline halojoy  Sweden
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Default Re: dampening

Quote:
Originally posted by Kill-Pres-Bush
Has anyone here had success with dampening their CD players?
I believe I have had success with using blu-tack and dynamat..
I did a search - but these forums contain very few references to dampening/damping.
I do nothing for my CD:s
Execept I keep them in the refridgerator,
so they are cold.
This stops/reduce the elctronic activity
in the plastic.
Reslult is a very cold and neutral sound
with less electronic noise between 16000-27500 Hertz

I notice this has most good effect on classical chamber music recordings, and unplugged popmusic.

Other than this I have not tested any CD-tweaks
----------------------------------------------------------------------

Maybe this thread that I started to learn more is some
good reading for this subject:

Vibration Isolators - Air, Magnets or other materials

/halo
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Old 26th December 2002, 03:34 PM   #3
Bobken is offline Bobken  United Kingdom
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Default Re: dampening

Quote:
Originally posted by Kill-Pres-Bush
Has anyone here had success with dampening their CD players?

I believe I have had success with using blu-tack and dynamat..

I did a search - but these forums contain very few references to dampening/damping.
Yes, I have had great success with several pices of audio gear, the most successful being a radio tuner and a (quite good Audiolab) CD transport which is based on the Phillips CDM-12 transport.

I have used many forms of proprietary damping materials like Microsorb, Deflex, Sorbothane, Bluetack, and bitumen based sheets as used in the auto trade, and lead sheets used in roofing buildings.

With the CD transport, I found that where there is an inbuilt transformer, it is vital to ensure that the transformer is very well isolated from the chassis, and out of all the materials tried, Deflex was the most effective here.
With a central bolt mounted torroid, you can carefully back-off the nut (change this to a self locking type like an aeronut or nylock) and you can literally 'tune' the sound for the best improvement during listening tests.

Watch out, though, if you ever need to carry the unit about or send it anywhere by carrier, as, in my case, the nut is so fixed that it merely sits on top of the tranny, and doesn't hardly comress the underlying Deflex support pad at all. For carriage, I would need to tighten this up a bit to stop the heavy transformer moving about!

Some years ago I read that a similar experimenter felt that he had gone too far with damping a CD and that, consequently, the sound had lost some of its life and sparkle.

My own experiences are quite different, however, and I have found that the more damping applied, the better, and my CD now weighs a ton, but it sounds very good and clean.

In my opinion, any form of unwanted vibration is a bad thing and only leads to a deterioration in sound quality, but for some people in some circumstances I accept that they might prefer to hear the effects of vibration in a similar way to the euphonious colouration caused by say 2nd harmonic distortion. However, my pursuit has always been to have the most accurate sound possible and all vibration must go!

The results are very worthwhile, and I strongly encourage you try it. Provided you don't do any physical damage to anything while you are carrying out the mods, you have nothing to lose, and the materials are not terrifically expensive, especially lead sheet and Bluetack etc.

Apart from speakers and cartridges which produce their sound as a result of vibration, of course, (and musucal instruments) no other forms of vibration I can readily think of can possibly assist with reproducing accurate sound, so even if you dampen some 'harmless' vibrations it cannot make things worse, and every piece of audio gear I have worked on and damped, has benefitted from the exercise.

God luck!
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Old 26th December 2002, 03:47 PM   #4
dorkus is offline dorkus  United States
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halojoy, i highly doubt you are reducing, much less stopping "electronic activity" by refridgerating your CDs, if you mean at the quantum level. unless you have a dilution refrigerator.

sorry did i miss a joke?
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Old 26th December 2002, 05:32 PM   #5
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Hey Bobken

I have already experimented on my 6 year old Marantz CD36 (I think it's identical to a Phillips 723). I tightened down the transport with bigger screws; I applied blu tack all over the chassis, transformer, and selected sensible areas of the transport and PCB. The results were remarkable; the CDP really did become much clearer and more precise.

I finally knackered the player when I tried to change op-amps; a long length of copper track rose up and peeled off; which was a great shame since it had really started to shine just with the dampening mods alone.

I have just recently bought a Denon DCD-835 (which is a much better player that recieved some excellent reviews). This time I shall apply Maplins Brown Bread (exactly like Dynamat) OR Dynamat OR Akasa and/or blu-tack... I shall be much more liberal this time. I am again hoping for good results.

I usually do my music tweakings with the aid of special magic herbs...
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Old 27th December 2002, 05:48 AM   #6
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Default great forum

I have finished a balanced line stage (pass) and his SOZ.
Now i am trying to 'reinvent' the cd player.
I followed an idea of someone who used a cd rom (creative blast) but as i have many cd roms already at home (I recycle things from 'friends') i took apart the first one i could grab out of my colonial trunk " a Sony" .

I am wondering though if the cd rom is going to perform as good as a commercial one, I am llistening to all your ideas in order to reduce any 'noise' it may create when not following 'politically correct guidelines.

shoot!

Jean-Pierre
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Old 27th December 2002, 06:00 AM   #7
cowanrg is offline cowanrg  United States
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i recently learned that dynomat has an insanely high markup value. what sells for like $50 at my store i can get for around $11. as soon as i get my player back, im going to dynomat the whole inside, its supposed to make some nice sonic improvements.
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Old 27th December 2002, 06:30 AM   #8
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Quote:
Originally posted by cowanrg
i recently learned that dynomat has an insanely high markup value. what sells for like $50 at my store i can get for around $11. as soon as i get my player back, im going to dynomat the whole inside, its supposed to make some nice sonic improvements.
If I lived in the States I would buy http://www.fatmat.com/

I realised that Dynamat was over-priced. At the end of the day it is just a fairly dense rubber (probably neoprene) with an aluminium foil sheet covering and some adhesive...

In the UK we pay more than 60% more for Dynamat than you. So count yourself lucky.
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Old 27th December 2002, 06:34 AM   #9
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Default Re: dampening

Quote:
Originally posted by Stryder
]Has anyone here had success with dampening their CD players?
Just a little nomenclature here.

Dampening is the act of getting something wet. I don't think you really want to pour water on your CD player

Damping the chassis & various other parts of almost any electronics can have a beneficial effect if applied in the right places.

dave
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Old 27th December 2002, 06:53 AM   #10
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Default "Dampening is the act of getting something wet."

Thanks Dave, I was going to say the same.

"Damping the chassis & various other parts of almost any electronics can have a beneficial effect if applied in the right places. "

In addition to the loss characteristics of the damping used, the elements used add a further sonic characteristic.
Lead is a wonderful mechanical damping material, but adds a leaden tone.
Blue-tack sounds horrible ime.

Eric.
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