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#1 |
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diyAudio Member
Join Date: Aug 2004
Location: Novi Sad, Vojvodina
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This is my first time doing something just from the schematics. Unfortunately I don't have no other than basic knowledge in electronics so it took me days to figure this out alone...
I wonder if I have done it correctly. I am opened to all suggestions. Thanks! |
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#2 |
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diyAudio Member
Join Date: Aug 2004
Location: Novi Sad, Vojvodina
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leads, without the components:
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#3 |
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diyAudio Member
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If you attach the schematic you might get a reply
__________________
Deep down inside. |
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#4 | |
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diyAudio Member
Join Date: Aug 2004
Location: Novi Sad, Vojvodina
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Quote:
Here it comes!!! |
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#5 |
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diyAudio Member
Join Date: Oct 2004
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Hi Bassivus,
Looking briefly at it, it looks good. Glad you're thinking about star earth. I knocked up a kwak clock quite roughly recently and started looking at the power rails with a scope to see the effects of ground bounce and ended up with nearly every component leg straight to the star ground. (eg, r2, x1, c6 r1, r12 would each have a wire from the ground leg straight to the ground star point). Also, it might help to have capacitance (at least c4 and c15) placed closer to the comparator, if you can. Hope this helps, but what you have will probably work well (I've built a few before without any care to layout and they work quite well) Cheers, Phil |
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#6 |
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diyAudio Member
Join Date: Aug 2004
Location: Novi Sad, Vojvodina
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Thanks very much! In the mean time I have noticed that I have missed (probably accidentally erased in the corel while optimizing) the connection from the L1 to power+5V rail, but thats all corrected now!
Ivica |
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#7 |
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diyAudio Member
Join Date: Aug 2004
Location: Novi Sad, Vojvodina
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I optimized
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#8 |
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diyAudio Member
Join Date: Aug 2004
Location: Novi Sad, Vojvodina
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This makes the final version if no more mistakes are found:
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#9 |
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Audio Engineer
diyAudio Member
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Hi, How fast is the clock running if it is > 10MHz then the star earth topology you are using is probably not the most appropriate as the signal will follow is the field between the out bound path and the return path. In this situation a ground grid is usually better (basically this just means connect the grounds together in as many locations as possible to reduce the return ground impedance as far as possible and provide the sortest return path possible)- or if possible the logical extension for this a ground plane. At the very least I would connect from R12 accross to the ground on the driver chip so there is a return path for the curent from the oscillator that does not have to try to flow though the PSU ground.
The other thing I am concerned about is you have no ground take off for the signal leaving the PCB there should be a ground terminal next to the output signal terminal this should return to the ground on the driver chip not the star (In your case this is the centre point of the two decoupling caps C15 and C4). Stars do not work well at high frequencies you should think of the signal following in the field between the ground return and the signal trace and try to make the field area as small as possible. Regards, Andrew |
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#10 |
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diyAudio Member
Join Date: Aug 2004
Location: Novi Sad, Vojvodina
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Hello,
Thanks very much for the advice! Last time when I have posted I almost have put to the question the situation with R12 and C4/C15 ground, that you just have explained! Great! If I have understood correctly it should be OK/good to connect R12 GND to the center point of ground between C4/C15 and than jumper/connect to PSU ground center? Regards, Ivica |
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