I will try to be precise since my English is not very good
1.- points white: caps blackgate FK 2200uf / 35v (before 1000uF 25v)
2.- point orange: cap Blackgate 1000uf / 16v (before 470uF 16v)
3.- points yellow: Opams AD826 (before OPA2604)
4.- points blue: caps blackgate 47uf / 25v (before 470uF 25v)
5.- points black: Auricaps 4.7uf / 200v (before 100uF 16v)
and removed muting transistors
Any suggestions?...
thanks
An externally hosted image should be here but it was not working when we last tested it.
An externally hosted image should be here but it was not working when we last tested it.
1.- points white: caps blackgate FK 2200uf / 35v (before 1000uF 25v)
2.- point orange: cap Blackgate 1000uf / 16v (before 470uF 16v)
3.- points yellow: Opams AD826 (before OPA2604)
4.- points blue: caps blackgate 47uf / 25v (before 470uF 25v)
5.- points black: Auricaps 4.7uf / 200v (before 100uF 16v)
and removed muting transistors
Any suggestions?...
thanks
Replace the rca sockets with good ones
its hard to tell from you pics as the caps obstruct the view.
If yo have not bypassed your electrolytic caps with 10n film caps, this is a good move.
you could brace the chassis with angle aluminium
use the best ic cable you can make or buy.
swap the rectifier diodes for schottky types.
Damp the case more
damp the crystal
build a vibration sink to sit the player on and I fine it often helps to remove the nasty plastic feet at come with these units.
consider 10mm mdf/ bitumen damping/ 5mm glass/ bitumen damping/10mm mdf sandwich .
this should be the size of the cdps foot print .....if you remove the feet use small screws to attach this constrained damping layer to the base of the cdp.
If you can't attach it use blutac to hold base and sheet together.
its hard to tell from you pics as the caps obstruct the view.
If yo have not bypassed your electrolytic caps with 10n film caps, this is a good move.
you could brace the chassis with angle aluminium
use the best ic cable you can make or buy.
swap the rectifier diodes for schottky types.
Damp the case more
damp the crystal
build a vibration sink to sit the player on and I fine it often helps to remove the nasty plastic feet at come with these units.
consider 10mm mdf/ bitumen damping/ 5mm glass/ bitumen damping/10mm mdf sandwich .
this should be the size of the cdps foot print .....if you remove the feet use small screws to attach this constrained damping layer to the base of the cdp.
If you can't attach it use blutac to hold base and sheet together.
An externally hosted image should be here but it was not working when we last tested it.
An externally hosted image should be here but it was not working when we last tested it.
also I have dvd 999es Sony with some modifications as you can see (I need recommendations)
http://www.flickr.com/photos/ccontreras/sets/72157594248888236/
http://www.flickr.com/photos/ccontreras/sets/72057594061381060/
Hi Ccontreras 
From a totally amateur dyer, I would say first, after spending a good amount of cash, are you happy with the mods?
I can imagine a couple of mods but can't be shure if they are worth the pain (and $) as, probably the unit has a performance "roof ".
What I would do if I had enough money :
*Damping: each unit has its own resonance, so you could experiment with different types of wood, like our native woods or marine plywood, wich is very hard. Lateral walls also vibrate...
I don't know this dynamat but I use, for big PCB's like NAD's one, "balls" of Teflon film under the PCB to dampen vibes
*You did not show main power supply. Maybe there you could:
-Upgrade transformer for the digital (and/or analog) section to an R-core (probably not enough room )
-Upgrade PS caps for Rubycon's ZL (and Oscon on digital section).
-Upgrade voltage regulators for digital and analog sections.
*Clock: I saw that Guido Tent is selling cristals for around EU27 (I will upgrade my cheap multiformat player), maybe with a dedicated low noise PS.
*Wiring: what are those wire jumpers made from? I would replace ALL jumpers with my beloved OCC copper 20AWG ...and maybe silver on crytical digital connections...
These are mods " a lo bruto" with uncertain price/performance
That said, why don't you consider instead selling your CDP and buying an excellent transport as CD PRO-2M (wich I did after selling my NAD 542) and some external, or internal DAC??? Maybe you would save big money or increase your musical experience
¡Viva Chile m....!
Chao
Mauricio
From a totally amateur dyer, I would say first, after spending a good amount of cash, are you happy with the mods?
I can imagine a couple of mods but can't be shure if they are worth the pain (and $)
as, probably the unit has a performance "roof ".What I would do if I had enough money
:*Damping: each unit has its own resonance, so you could experiment with different types of wood, like our native woods or marine plywood, wich is very hard. Lateral walls also vibrate...
I don't know this dynamat but I use, for big PCB's like NAD's one, "balls" of Teflon film under the PCB to dampen vibes
*You did not show main power supply. Maybe there you could:
-Upgrade transformer for the digital (and/or analog) section to an R-core (probably not enough room
)-Upgrade PS caps for Rubycon's ZL (and Oscon on digital section).
-Upgrade voltage regulators for digital and analog sections.
*Clock: I saw that Guido Tent is selling cristals for around EU27 (I will upgrade my cheap multiformat player), maybe with a dedicated low noise PS.
*Wiring: what are those wire jumpers made from? I would replace ALL jumpers with my beloved OCC copper 20AWG
...and maybe silver on crytical digital connections...These are mods " a lo bruto" with uncertain price/performance
That said, why don't you consider instead selling your CDP and buying an excellent transport as CD PRO-2M (wich I did after selling my NAD 542) and some external, or internal DAC??? Maybe you would save big money or increase your musical experience
¡Viva Chile m....!
Chao
Mauricio
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