Help with Philips CD960 - Page 2 - diyAudio
Go Back   Home > Forums > Source & Line > Digital Source

Digital Source Digital Players and Recorders: CD , SACD , Tape, Memory Card, etc.

Please consider donating to help us continue to serve you.

Ads on/off / Custom Title / More PMs / More album space / Advanced printing & mass image saving
Reply
 
Thread Tools Search this Thread
Old 25th April 2012, 07:37 PM   #11
diyAudio Member
 
Join Date: Nov 2011
Quote:
Originally Posted by IanAS View Post
I cleaned all the old grease off the round rail and applied a very thin layer of 'white grease', I wipe it on with a small piece of kitchen roll as if I was cleaning the rod. Some types of grease on this rod clog and make the tray move slower. I don't know what the Philips / Marantz recommendation is for this.
The tray bearing guide rod ('round rail') is not lubricated with grease. The tray runs on 'Oilite' sintered bronze bushings which are lubricated with a very small amount of light oil (and sometimes additional anti-friction additives) - no more that the porous bearing itself will 'absorb'. They are normally impregnated ('pre-lub'd') on manufacture. Grease should not be used, it is too heavy, will clog the bushings and cause too much 'drag'.
  Reply With Quote
Old 1st May 2012, 12:24 AM   #12
IanAS is offline IanAS  England
diyAudio Member
 
Join Date: Dec 2004
Location: London
With the tray open I removed the tray pulley with the wire looped around it, but held it without letting go....

You can't do it with the tray closed as when it is, the wire from the back of the tray to the pulley is too short to allow the pulley to come off far enough.

Quote:
Originally Posted by Jonssen View Post
'Oilite'...bushings...light oil
Thanks

Last edited by IanAS; 1st May 2012 at 12:31 AM.
  Reply With Quote
Old 27th August 2013, 02:25 PM   #13
diyAudio Member
 
Join Date: Nov 2011
Quote:
Originally Posted by IanAS View Post
Today I changed the belts on two Philips CD960 players.

I used CPC:
AVBELT77 37mm x 1.9mm
AVBELT91 51.5mm x 2mm

On the tray lift side:
• AVBELT77 was good for the smaller 'motor' belt.
• AVBELT77 was good for the 'cam' pulley belt though it might be a bit tight and has to be stretched over the pulleys. This grips well and works well but I was mildly concerned that in time some wear may be caused to the pulleys around the bearing pins and so a slightly longer belt may be better in that respect.

On the tray sliding mechanism:
• AVBELT91 was good for the longer belt. Gripped and worked will with no slippage or squeaking.
• AVBELT77 gripped but the lowest point of the slider (that bolts to the wire and has the rubber buffer in front) overlaps this 1.9mm belt and jams causing the tray to be stopped. My fix was to use the Lindstrom oblique flush cutters and snip off maybe 0.2mm or 0.3mm of the rubber belts square edge so it's more of a triangle belt than square. This then cleared the slider and gripped and worked well. No stretching when under strain. Though if you don't have good cutters a thinner belt would have to be used.

Square section belts work in a similar way to V-belts establishing 'grip' between the side walls and the pulley on the drive side. It is not the intention to establish 'grip' by having a belt that is tight like a stretched elastic band. This is why the centre of the pulleys are usually 'undercut'. Hence it is quite normal to find one 'tight' side and one 'slack' side to the belt when in operation. In the same way as too much tension is bad for v-belts, it will also cause bearing wear and pulley misalignment with square belts and so is to be avoided.

I have yet to come across one player where the original belts were actually perished. Although I have changed belts occasionally for expediency I have found that I can always recover operation using the existing belts by proper meticulous cleaning (using isopropyl alcohol) of belts and pulleys. All 'dirt' must be removed. (I'm sure the same result could be obtained using 'meths' - I just didn't bother to try yet.)

Belts can be boiled in water to help them recover their original shape, although on some very old Denon belts where the unit (151A) had been untouched in a loft for 15 years I found the thick lower belt remained oval. The Denon motor pulley is small. But with just cleaning it was made to work properly.

So, before you change belts to some that aren't original, perhaps you should try cleaning. Don't forget the tray guide rail, if there is one. If it runs in plastic bushings it runs on grease. If it has small 'brass' coloured bushings then light oil - wipe it to remove any dirt and then just a touch of oil. No, not from the can, just a lightly 'part dampened' (not wet!) cotton bud/stick. If you can see oil flowing on the guide surface afterwards then it's too much - wipe it off!

Any unit that has sat unused for a while is more likely to show 'slow loading' symptoms. Unused for long enough and it may 'stick' altogether, at least in the interim. That doesn't mean it's 'had it'. :-)

Last edited by Jonssen; 27th August 2013 at 02:28 PM.
  Reply With Quote

Reply


Hide this!Advertise here!
Thread Tools Search this Thread
Search this Thread:

Advanced Search

Posting Rules
You may not post new threads
You may not post replies
You may not post attachments
You may not edit your posts

BB code is On
Smilies are On
[IMG] code is On
HTML code is Off
Trackbacks are Off
Pingbacks are Off
Refbacks are Off


Similar Threads
Thread Thread Starter Forum Replies Last Post
Help me mod Philips CD960 @lf Digital Source 21 11th December 2006 07:21 PM
Philips cd960 problem muizel Digital Source 0 28th October 2006 12:03 AM
Philips CD960 diyman Digital Source 0 1st November 2005 01:50 PM
Buttons for Philips CD960 Bernhard Swap Meet 0 13th November 2004 08:45 PM


New To Site? Need Help?

All times are GMT. The time now is 10:21 AM.


vBulletin Optimisation provided by vB Optimise (Pro) - vBulletin Mods & Addons Copyright © 2014 DragonByte Technologies Ltd.
Copyright 1999-2014 diyAudio

Content Relevant URLs by vBSEO 3.3.2