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Old 9th October 2006, 06:28 PM   #11
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Default Re: Re: cd 4se

It's very interesting to hear that the CD4SE beat the Marantz in all but treble. I suspect that this could be system dependent?
In my system I have;

CD4SE ----> Cyrus2 & PSX ---->Tannoy 611 Mk1

The speakers and amp are both known for their forward treble so it is therefore difficult for me to comment. On lesser systems I have found the Cambridge a little too warm and lacking detail but with my kit I have too much of the very highest treble. I'm sure I'll get it sorted soon.

I think a better supply for the opamps would be wise but remember that there are 4 regs to replace for the analogue section. This is the reason that I have tackled the clock and digital sections first!

I think a battery supply for the clock would be good but is it really 12 Volts? I can't remember right now or were you suggesting regulation afterwards? Please forgive my ignorance.


Quote:
Originally posted by sreten


Hi,

I've got one. It allready is. If it sounds good in your system leave it
pretty much well alone except possibly for the coupling capacitors.

Which should also be checked at the amplifier end and if your going to
be a purist about it one set of coupling capacitors shouild be removed.

/sreten.
Sreten, Could you advise on removing the coupling caps. Is it just a case of removing the blue Philips cap nearest to where the output leaves the board? I'm going to have a look later this evening and try to work it out for myself but I'd feel alot more comfortable with your advice onboard. I suppose I should then check for DC at the output and also that my amp has coupling caps at the input.
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Old 9th October 2006, 08:47 PM   #12
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Default cd4 se

the cd 4 was on tested on a Affordable Valve Company class a amp castle harlechs with a very good replacement vifa tweeter used in AE1 MK 3 i would say on first listening the marantz was a more detailed player but the instruments had no body at the end of the day i have heard a musical fidelity cd pre and it was very much like the cd4se the tannoy 611 are sweet sounding i never found them bright or harsh good bass mind
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Old 10th October 2006, 01:10 AM   #13
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Hi, whats gan on.

I have four CD4SE CD players! (Yes, I am mad! )

I have not modded any of them, although I did add some damping material and new feet to one of them. I know that is not really electrical DIY as such, but it is as far as I can go in my situation.

I know this may sound clichéd and yet more ‘hi-fi speak’, but it is such an unusual sounding player – I’ve never heard anything like it.

Lovely machine. And John is very helpful.

To think this machine cost around £150-£200 a decade or so ago is mind boggling. It can be found on eBay for as little as £20 sometimes because many do not realise it is such a find.

Does anyone know of particularly good amps to go with this player? It sounds good with some Cambridge Audio models (A3i, etc.), as well as some Arcam (Alpha 6 Plus), which I did not think would sound good at first. Goes really well with the Arcam units I have, but I think it is best with the Cambridge Audio A3i.

Different cables, to me, do not seem to make much difference with this unit, although Canare cable seems to be particularly good with this unit. I really love the Cambridge Audio Pacific interconnects used inside!

Regards,

Carl
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Old 10th October 2006, 07:30 AM   #14
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Default cd 4se

wow four players mind you i see why to be honest mate i would save up and buy a very good amp that cost over a grand new or much more. the amp is the heart of any good system, but you will pay a lot less used .or try the amazing sonic t amp in the modified form. it will cost you about £100 the amp is the heart of any good system i used a t amp in the past very good amp but lacked bass. but the one i have just metioned should have bass as it is a revised there is one on ebay its super t amp
the cd player really is a gem and it needs the best you can afford to realy get the best from it
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Old 10th October 2006, 07:58 AM   #15
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Thanks very much, whats gan on.

Don’t worry – I have only four CD4SE players because they cost me between £20 and £30 (with a couple being a bit more), so I figured they would be good for spares. However, they all work, with just one’s display backlight not working.

I am selling off other hi-fi equipment so I can consolidate my hi-fi and home cinema equipment and get the right equipment put in the right places.
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Old 10th October 2006, 09:39 AM   #16
sreten is offline sreten  United Kingdom
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Default Re: Re: Re: cd 4se

Quote:
Originally posted by Sonusthree

Sreten, Could you advise on removing the coupling caps. Is it just a case of removing the blue Philips cap nearest to where the output leaves the board? I'm going to have a look later this evening and try to work it out for myself but I'd feel alot more comfortable with your advice onboard. I suppose I should then check for DC at the output and also that my amp has coupling caps at the input.
Hi,

I'm not an inveterate fiddler so I haven't moddded my CD4SE.

The above sounds entirely reasonable, assuming there are coupling
caps on the output, I had a quick look once but wasn't entirely sure.

My system also has sibilance issues, think this is related to my
Audiolab 8000A, the best approach I think is the speakers c/o.

If you could sketch out the treble unit c/o may have some advice.

/sreten.
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Old 10th October 2006, 01:54 PM   #17
JohnW is offline JohnW  Hong Kong
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Hi,

The CD4SE is direct coupled; there are no coupling capacitors on the output.

John,

The best upgrade is to replace the AD711 OPAMP with a discrete design, this will give the greatest improvement, I would do this first before adding new regulators.

JohnW
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Old 10th October 2006, 05:02 PM   #18
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Quote:
Originally posted by sreten


My system also has sibilance issues, think this is related to my
Audiolab 8000A, the best approach I think is the speakers c/o.

If you could sketch out the treble unit c/o may have some advice.

/sreten.
From what I can gather the Audiolab and Early Cyrus amps have quite similar characteristics. Powerful but forward. A bit like me! Sorry.

You have already, very kindly, helped me to figure out my crossover in this thread which is definitely a work in progress:
http://www.diyaudio.com/forums/showt...> <br /> ht=

I have since heard the later MK2 611 and the sound is very different but lacks the magic of the MK1. The crossover and cabinets are identical but the drivers obviously have different specs. To put it bluntly they have really toned down the crossover region to reduce the natural sibilance of the horn but they sound very very dull and lifeless. I will be updating that thread very soon with my findings so far.

Sreten you are a true gentleman, Thank you.


Quote:
Originally posted by JohnW
Hi,

The CD4SE is direct coupled; there are no coupling capacitors on the output.

John,

The best upgrade is to replace the AD711 OPAMP with a discrete design, this will give the greatest improvement, I would do this first before adding new regulators.

JohnW
Hi John,
Thanks for taking the time to post here. I know just how busy you are. I know that you have designed some great stuff that I am yet to hear but there remains something special about the CD4SE. To me I love that something made for us ordinary people can sound so great. It seems as if in this one design you used all you're expertise to squeeze the best player from such a reasonable budget. In my opinion this is the mark of a really good designer.

Needless to say I am a big fan.

If I was to replace the AD711 would it just be a case of making or buying a 'daughterboard' and connecting up the inputs to the opamp to the new discrete circuit?

Unfortunately I would have to study hard before I design my own discrete outputs.

Any pointers would be appreciated. I like to learn.
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Old 10th October 2006, 10:46 PM   #19
EUVL is offline EUVL  Europe
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There are few commercially available opamps on the market. One example is :

http://www.forsselltech.com/JFET990-2.htm

But you can Google to find others.

It would most unlikely be plug and play, as the footprint will be totally different. And you should check whether the supply voltages are compatible.

But I am sure John would be able to give you much better advice.


Patrick
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Old 11th October 2006, 09:56 PM   #20
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Default Gilding the lilly?

Hi Patrick,
This is where things get a little scary for me

Firstly the native regs for the opamps are +/- 8 Volts. At least +/- 12 Volts is required for all of the commercial offerings I have found so far and this would mean also finding a new Bi-polar supply from somewhere. I lack the confidence, resources and perhaps the skills to mess around with mains voltages.

I think that it would be too much for me to deal with at once. Both technically and financially. If there was a tried and tested foolproof DIY breadboard type approach then I may nervously consider it.

I am also considering is swapping the 711 for a Burr Brown unit which is pin compatible. This would be easy, except I have no experience replacing surface mount stuff.

Finally my thoughts turn once again to the replacing the 711 with the "Tubalizer" I mentioned before. Technically this would seem like an easy substitution for someone of my ability. It only requires a simple +12 Volt supply which I can upgrade later on perhaps to a battery.
But the sound of this tube buffer is an unknown quantity and I would defintely be taking a risk. A £65 risk (96 Euros).

http://www.audiodigit.com/index.php?section=81

My integrated amp has a passive preamp so I would expect that this choice would be very important.
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