I don't suppose anyone knows where I could pick two of these up from? I'm after 2 Philips CDM12.4/05 to go in some micromega Stage/Drive players.
Has anyone successfully replaced a mech in a micromega stage player
I have seen some 12.4's / vam1204's on some chinese sites has anyone had any experience of these units or is it best to stick to the mechs removed from other players?
Thanks any info would help at present.
Has anyone successfully replaced a mech in a micromega stage player
I have seen some 12.4's / vam1204's on some chinese sites has anyone had any experience of these units or is it best to stick to the mechs removed from other players?Thanks any info would help at present.
Hi Phasenoise, might this be what your looking for?
http://www.dalbani.co.uk/catalogue/product_details.php?id=11958
They are a UK firm which may well be easier?
http://www.dalbani.co.uk/catalogue/product_details.php?id=11958
They are a UK firm which may well be easier?
hi, i got one of these from nikko elec. and they are genuine OEM pruducts, i first bought a lazer with mech but that idint work after 24 hours of use (onces all componants we warm) so as a last ditch atempt to revive my MM stage 6 THANK GOD!!! i am in the music again rather than the electronics....
i think a tell tale sign of refurbished pickups and mechs are:
no numbers printed on top left corner.
wrighting on the flexi cable is different.
and the supporting film is white rather than clear.
and the fact that they dont work also gives it away
from looking around i dont think anyone actually makes new mech. so best just get a lazer and strip your old mech down till the only thing left is the spindle motor. clean with servisol contact cleaner then reassemble with small amount of silicon spray lub and a tiny amount os silicon grease the drop the lazer in at the last minuate and put in with out distbing the lazer or getting static to it.
on the packaging that the new lazer came in it stated
new genuine part and warns of the affects of startic charge.
i also have a spare now as i can not find a player thats better suited to my system
MM stage 6
rega elicit amp
PMC tb1-s
seterovox firebird speaker cables
silver arrow interconnectors
i think a tell tale sign of refurbished pickups and mechs are:
no numbers printed on top left corner.
wrighting on the flexi cable is different.
and the supporting film is white rather than clear.
and the fact that they dont work also gives it away
from looking around i dont think anyone actually makes new mech. so best just get a lazer and strip your old mech down till the only thing left is the spindle motor. clean with servisol contact cleaner then reassemble with small amount of silicon spray lub and a tiny amount os silicon grease the drop the lazer in at the last minuate and put in with out distbing the lazer or getting static to it.
on the packaging that the new lazer came in it stated
new genuine part and warns of the affects of startic charge.
i also have a spare now
as i can not find a player thats better suited to my systemMM stage 6
rega elicit amp
PMC tb1-s
seterovox firebird speaker cables
silver arrow interconnectors
I bought two lasers from dalbani, I haven't actually installed one yet as my current laser isn't that bad just the odd skip so probably needs a grease change. Is the spray grease the best thing to be using? I always used tubed grease but can't seem to find any at present.
The packaging for my lasers did look a bit suspect but the lasers look the real deal marked with dates from 1994, so they are much older than my actual player which was new in 1999.
I like many others love my Micromega Drive 3 and it still smokes most transports easy.
The packaging for my lasers did look a bit suspect but the lasers look the real deal marked with dates from 1994, so they are much older than my actual player which was new in 1999.
I like many others love my Micromega Drive 3 and it still smokes most transports easy.
the link i posted is to nikko- try clicking it!
and regarding the grease yes the spray grease is better as its kind of in between a good synt oil and the tube formula
i tried the tube and used a 1.5 volt battrey to power the lazer sledge motor and watched which substance made the running gear go the fastest smoothest and still remain soild and quiet.
i stipped the whole assembly down and cleaned and used a small amount of spray grease but first sprayed the grease into its own lid and then applied it using a small screwdrive.
i carnt imagine that greasing these part much will do it any good as all part are very slow moving and the plastics used are soft.
the crome bar that the lazer slides on is not tight fitting so there again it only needs an light lub to get it going.
over greasing will cause the same affect as a bad lazer as all it will do is slow the whole assembly down.
if your is skipping then skip the lazer asap and try reconing your drive and fit a new motor. i tried every other option and found this to be the best and i worked first time and feels to be the best way as you use your origional parts as much as poss.
the motors on the drive will not the the problem 9/10 time as the are only running light revs. and all drives out there currently are recons so why ditch your for one thats been around the world a few times......
and regarding the grease yes the spray grease is better as its kind of in between a good synt oil and the tube formula
i tried the tube and used a 1.5 volt battrey to power the lazer sledge motor and watched which substance made the running gear go the fastest smoothest and still remain soild and quiet.
i stipped the whole assembly down and cleaned and used a small amount of spray grease but first sprayed the grease into its own lid and then applied it using a small screwdrive.
i carnt imagine that greasing these part much will do it any good as all part are very slow moving and the plastics used are soft.
the crome bar that the lazer slides on is not tight fitting so there again it only needs an light lub to get it going.
over greasing will cause the same affect as a bad lazer as all it will do is slow the whole assembly down.
if your is skipping then skip the lazer asap and try reconing your drive and fit a new motor. i tried every other option and found this to be the best and i worked first time and feels to be the best way as you use your origional parts as much as poss.
the motors on the drive will not the the problem 9/10 time as the are only running light revs. and all drives out there currently are recons so why ditch your for one thats been around the world a few times......
I last re-greased about 5 years back, I'm pretty sure it's the just a grease problem as there is not disc reading problems, and only tends to skip near the end of a disc. I'll get my hands on some spray grease at some point soon. I wouldn't mind getting my hands on a complete mech and loader. So if anyone knows where I can get a loader let me know.
Also has anyone got any preferences on the spray grease to use for long term use? (Don't want to keep taking it apart to regrease.) Sorry for all the questions been a while and only ever used tubed stuff like I said.
Also has anyone got any preferences on the spray grease to use for long term use? (Don't want to keep taking it apart to regrease.) Sorry for all the questions been a while and only ever used tubed stuff like I said.
- Status
- This old topic is closed. If you want to reopen this topic, contact a moderator using the "Report Post" button.