Thats what it says.
After all - the mission was based on the philips (104 I think) and maybe not only based - maybe they just changed the logo and the exterior a bit.
http://www.thevintageknob.org/DAD/CD104/CD104.html
BTW - what the author says about "greyish sound" it is just a golden eared expression of BS. Nothing greyish in my chain, cant even keep it apart from a pioneer DV 59AVI thats running via digital output to the deq. And that despite the missions "lousy" captive rca cord.
What do you mean by that? I follow the spectrum through a behringer deq and cannot see that any frequencies below 20kHz are chopped off - and I compared this unit directly in a/b comparison with a pioneer 59 avi - the latter was running digital direct to the behringer, the mission output was connected to a bryston preamp and from there to the behringer. I heard absolutely no difference in direct a/b comparison.
Well, keeping in mind I dont know one end of a soldering iron from the other I suppose I was hoodwinked by the technical blurb and the magazine reveiws of the time.
It is supposed to have some kind of a filter, (on the analogue output I assume) that chops off any high frequency nasties, the aim being to give a more relaxed, or "analogue" sound
From memory I think it is in a small potted box (this is going from my memory of the reveiws at the time, I never looked) fitted somewhere near the captive output cable. Any technical speak is lost on me, sorry!
It is supposed to have some kind of a filter, (on the analogue output I assume) that chops off any high frequency nasties, the aim being to give a more relaxed, or "analogue" sound
From memory I think it is in a small potted box (this is going from my memory of the reveiws at the time, I never looked) fitted somewhere near the captive output cable. Any technical speak is lost on me, sorry!
Hi audio-kraut,
Paul is saying that they used the standard (for the day) vicious high order filter to roll off the response. I still have the extra filter module as spares. That chip set does not do SPDIF out. I am thinking that I may feed the RF into another demod / filter / DAC on my Nakamichi OMS-7 (same chip set with dual TDA1540 DACs).
Depending on the filter design, it may ring. I never bothered to look at them closely. The sound was not appealing, the Nak filter is a different beast again.
I think your DAD-7000 used a nicer filter as well. If you peek inside the black box that moves freely near the back of the unit, you will see a pair of NE5534AP op amps surrounded by a bunch of polystyrene caps, also some electrolytics. The resistors appear to be metal film types.
Sometimes it's not so much the DAC (that is the main thing), but how you treat the audio signal afterwards that makes CD players sound so different from each other.
-Chris
Paul is saying that they used the standard (for the day) vicious high order filter to roll off the response. I still have the extra filter module as spares. That chip set does not do SPDIF out. I am thinking that I may feed the RF into another demod / filter / DAC on my Nakamichi OMS-7 (same chip set with dual TDA1540 DACs).
Depending on the filter design, it may ring. I never bothered to look at them closely. The sound was not appealing, the Nak filter is a different beast again.
I think your DAD-7000 used a nicer filter as well. If you peek inside the black box that moves freely near the back of the unit, you will see a pair of NE5534AP op amps surrounded by a bunch of polystyrene caps, also some electrolytics. The resistors appear to be metal film types.
Sometimes it's not so much the DAC (that is the main thing), but how you treat the audio signal afterwards that makes CD players sound so different from each other.
-Chris
Hi Paul,
OMG!
Make sure that box is in there. With any luck, the plastic was removed and the board remounted. The filters I have use flat cables, one with a connector attached. Of course I may be mistaken and this is a later version. The fact is that you still need the filter to keep the hash out of your system.
-Chris
OMG!
Make sure that box is in there. With any luck, the plastic was removed and the board remounted. The filters I have use flat cables, one with a connector attached. Of course I may be mistaken and this is a later version. The fact is that you still need the filter to keep the hash out of your system.
-Chris
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Hi audio-kraut,
I depends a great deal on your system. I would not run a CD player without any filtering on my system. I think your filter is the earlier version of the one I showed a picture of. I'll bet they added muting transistors and a buffer. Using a relay instead of the muting transistors may improve the sound quality.
I thought I had a manual for that machine ........ still looking.
-Chris
I depends a great deal on your system. I would not run a CD player without any filtering on my system. I think your filter is the earlier version of the one I showed a picture of. I'll bet they added muting transistors and a buffer. Using a relay instead of the muting transistors may improve the sound quality.
I thought I had a manual for that machine ........ still looking.
-Chris
Hi audio-kraut. There are some longish threads on things you can do with a Philips CD104 which is the same machine.
The two best thngs I found were :
1) the opamps output has a couple of DC block caps . From memory around 47uF. I removed these as my preamp is not DC coupled, and fitted links. You could replace them with better cas, maybe bipolars
2) i replaced the +/-12v decoupling caps, again I *think* 47uF. These provide the supply to the opamps and you can fit a couple of cerfaines here.
I'm not too sure what the Mission filter did, but I actually like the old 14bit sound from my CD104. The top end can be a little hard, but the bass is very good and the build quality is very fine. The player can be plagued by intermitent faults, which there are well documented fixes for. They are mostly due to dry joints caused by the 'griplets' philips used to link through the boards with. Removing these and soldering wires through is a fiddly process but worth it for me. The player now plays from cold everytime.
The two best thngs I found were :
1) the opamps output has a couple of DC block caps . From memory around 47uF. I removed these as my preamp is not DC coupled, and fitted links. You could replace them with better cas, maybe bipolars
2) i replaced the +/-12v decoupling caps, again I *think* 47uF. These provide the supply to the opamps and you can fit a couple of cerfaines here.
I'm not too sure what the Mission filter did, but I actually like the old 14bit sound from my CD104. The top end can be a little hard, but the bass is very good and the build quality is very fine. The player can be plagued by intermitent faults, which there are well documented fixes for. They are mostly due to dry joints caused by the 'griplets' philips used to link through the boards with. Removing these and soldering wires through is a fiddly process but worth it for me. The player now plays from cold everytime.
From memory the potted filter fitted in the DAD7000 was a comb type designed to work in conjunction with the existing CD104 filter.
I remember the DAD7000 I relaced griplets on some 15 years ago was somewhat smoother sounding in the high treble than the CD104 on which it was based but also a little drier in the bass.
I remember the DAD7000 I relaced griplets on some 15 years ago was somewhat smoother sounding in the high treble than the CD104 on which it was based but also a little drier in the bass.
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