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#1 |
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Account Disabled
Join Date: May 2006
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Question:
Should I buy a PCB and get all the parts myself from here? http://www.aoselectronics.com/jungsrpcb.html or should I just buy a fully assembled one from here? http://www.bursonaudio.com/Burson_Super_Regulator.htm Worth the trouble? |
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#2 |
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Magneto the Gravity Man
diyAudio Member
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or one of the Audiocom range of regulators?
What are you going to use it for? Andy |
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#3 |
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Account Disabled
Join Date: May 2006
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I am thinking use it on my DAC or Preamp. They should benifit most from clean power.
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#4 |
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diyAudio Member
Join Date: Feb 2003
Location: Scotland
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If you're happy with SMD, you could have a look at some of Peranders stuff
http://home5.swipnet.se/~w-50719/hifi/index.html I've used his super regulator to pleasing effect, and the soldering isn't really that hard... The Aos boards are good as well, although the sense output being separated can make wiring a little untidy |
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#5 |
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Electrons are yellow and more is better!
diyAudio Member
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It's worth mentioning that aos has not included support in his price.
http://tentlabs.com/ProductEntities/Shunt/Shunt.html
__________________
/Per-Anders (my first name) or P-A as my friends call me |
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#6 |
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diyAudio Member
Join Date: Nov 2003
Location: Madison Wisconsin
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related question - I've been looking for a super regulator kit/PCB that would provide +8.5V at about 0.8A. Input would be 12-13V SLA battery. Could one of Peer's boards like the JSR01 be used for that?
I've read most of the info out there and rarely ever is there a note about the maxiumum recommended current draw on these things. Whenever I did see current info, it seemed way too low for my needs. Peter |
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#7 |
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Electrons are yellow and more is better!
diyAudio Member
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The regulator you mention has SMT parts so max current is around 100 mA but the holemounted ones can handle more and 800 mA for sure.
__________________
/Per-Anders (my first name) or P-A as my friends call me |
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#8 | |
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diyAudio Member
Join Date: Nov 2003
Location: Madison Wisconsin
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Quote:
Looks like I need to find me a 24V battery auto charger first before I can consider this design and simply use two SLA batteries in parallel. I'll do some more reading before I make up my mind, plus I gotta get a few other projects squared away first Peter |
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#9 |
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Electrons are yellow and more is better!
diyAudio Member
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If you exclude the preregulator it's 2 volts more in than out.
What kind of DAC is it? If you really want to improve it you must examine closely the weak points. Just adding a good regulator won't probably do any miracles.
__________________
/Per-Anders (my first name) or P-A as my friends call me |
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#10 |
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diyAudio Member
Join Date: Nov 2003
Location: Madison Wisconsin
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The idea is to try it on a DDDAC custom build (about my 5th generation) - there's not much left to tweak but the supply to the stack of DAC chips, where I am currently using a LM1085 with acouple of Blackgate N's and a trimpot to get to 8.5V. Since there's no opamps or tubes behind the DAC output, I guess the power that you feed the DAC is more or less what you're listening to. My logic sez - better regulator = better sound, but maybe I am looking at this from a much too simplistic angle.
In the past I've had real good success improving the sound of the DAC by replacing TL431 regulators for clock and receiver chips with dedicated supplies based on Guide Tent's 5V clock supply circuit, but for the DAC tower I need something that can deliver more current. I don't expect miracles - the DAC is already way over the top compared to anything I have been able to compare it to, but I'm always looking for that little extra that nobody else has tried yet. I doubt anyone has run a DDDAC off a super regulator before, at least I haven't see anyone report on that. Peter |
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