Hy guys,
I just bought this Marantz CD53 CD-Player from ebay, what do you think about the Mods the previous owner realised in this unit ?
Here is the german ebay link:
http://cgi.ebay.de/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&item=7606325031&rd=1&sspagename=STRK:MEWN:IT&rd=1
And a few Photos:
Thanks !
I just bought this Marantz CD53 CD-Player from ebay, what do you think about the Mods the previous owner realised in this unit ?
Here is the german ebay link:
http://cgi.ebay.de/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&item=7606325031&rd=1&sspagename=STRK:MEWN:IT&rd=1
And a few Photos:
An externally hosted image should be here but it was not working when we last tested it.
An externally hosted image should be here but it was not working when we last tested it.
Thanks !
Hi Andy,
thanks for your reply. Unfortunately many people here in germany especially in the hifi-forum.de regard the player as crap.
I've been a little bit unsure about my marantz, as i listened to it compared to a Sony X202 ES. The Sony definitively sounds brighter and it seems to me that it reveals more details than the cd53. Still I prefer to listen to my CDs with the marantz as it sounds more pleasant and smooth.
But when at first listening to both CD-Players the Sony seems to sound better, so I've been a little bit disappointed about the Marantz, has anyone made similar experiences ?
Meanwhile I prefer Marantz.
Unfortunately I'm no expert in soldering so I decided to buy a modded cdplayer, but I will exchange the included opamps OP627 with OP275, I've already ordered pairs of OP275, OP2134 and OP2604 and I'm looking forward to test these. Although I am very well aware that the OP627 are regarded as some ob the best opamps, the price also speaks for itself.
Has anyone benn able to compare OP627 and OP275 in a Marantz CD Player.
And should I let the opamps burn in after placing them in ?
Does anybody think that any of the mods are crappy ? I've been told that the wiring to the bunch of blue capacitors on the right side in the picture is bad
Feel free to criticise the mods !
But unlike in the hifi-forum.de fell also free to tell me if some mods have been realised pretty well.
thanx
thanks for your reply. Unfortunately many people here in germany especially in the hifi-forum.de regard the player as crap.
I've been a little bit unsure about my marantz, as i listened to it compared to a Sony X202 ES. The Sony definitively sounds brighter and it seems to me that it reveals more details than the cd53. Still I prefer to listen to my CDs with the marantz as it sounds more pleasant and smooth.
But when at first listening to both CD-Players the Sony seems to sound better, so I've been a little bit disappointed about the Marantz, has anyone made similar experiences ?
Meanwhile I prefer Marantz.
Unfortunately I'm no expert in soldering so I decided to buy a modded cdplayer, but I will exchange the included opamps OP627 with OP275, I've already ordered pairs of OP275, OP2134 and OP2604 and I'm looking forward to test these. Although I am very well aware that the OP627 are regarded as some ob the best opamps, the price also speaks for itself.
Has anyone benn able to compare OP627 and OP275 in a Marantz CD Player.
And should I let the opamps burn in after placing them in ?
Does anybody think that any of the mods are crappy ? I've been told that the wiring to the bunch of blue capacitors on the right side in the picture is bad
Feel free to criticise the mods !
But unlike in the hifi-forum.de fell also free to tell me if some mods have been realised pretty well.
thanx
Hi.
I'll take your points in order.
The CD43,54,63 use the same basic chassis, cdm, main board and transformer. The major changes are the use of the HDAM in the '63 and component changes. In other words, Marantz produced the '43 and then did the upgrading for you. IMHO, the '43 is the best version to buy if you are planing to upgrade [ why buy the KI and then rip it apart?] As mentioned in the thread mentioned in post 2, once you have made serious changes, the HDAM is better bypassed [removed] so why have one in the first place. Secondly, the major problem with these players is the power supply - it is very inadequate in all versions including the KI ! So, in a sense, the German forum is correct, in it's basic form, the '43/ '53 is cr*p but it is the best starting point [don't tell them - the price will go up !]
Hifi is all about listening....if you like it ...fine !
One of the downsides of DIY audio is that you must be able to solder !! I have recently 'repaired' 2 cd-players which were bought modded. The soldering was appalling and the cause of the problems - 1 was a cdp from a 'well respected' modder ! - the soldering looked like it had been done with piece of scrap iron and some old lead pipe! Buy a soldering iron and practise on an old board for 1 hour and you will be good enough.
OPA627 are expensive and possibly not the best for this cd-p. They are the fashion craze of the moment. The AD826 is a good replacement as is the AD8260 or the LM6172. My own preference is the LM6171 as first i/c with a OPA627 (in class A) as the second.
Go to the thread in post 2 and ask.... I'm sure someone has !
The general concensus is that some burn-in time is required but in most cases some change should be evident immediately.
Unfortunately, the photos are not good enough to really see what mods have been made and where! There is nothing wrong with having a capacitor bank remote from where it originally was provided the wiring is well done. Take a look at some of the mods already carried out (see post 2) - these are remote but local decoupling has also been done!
In general, there is nothing wrong with the mods provided they have been well executed. However, I would say that if it has not already been done, replace the clock! you will be surprised what a difference it makes.
Good luck.
Andy
I'll take your points in order.
ciorbarece said:
The CD43,54,63 use the same basic chassis, cdm, main board and transformer. The major changes are the use of the HDAM in the '63 and component changes. In other words, Marantz produced the '43 and then did the upgrading for you. IMHO, the '43 is the best version to buy if you are planing to upgrade [ why buy the KI and then rip it apart?] As mentioned in the thread mentioned in post 2, once you have made serious changes, the HDAM is better bypassed [removed] so why have one in the first place. Secondly, the major problem with these players is the power supply - it is very inadequate in all versions including the KI ! So, in a sense, the German forum is correct, in it's basic form, the '43/ '53 is cr*p but it is the best starting point [don't tell them - the price will go up !]
Hifi is all about listening....if you like it ...fine !
One of the downsides of DIY audio is that you must be able to solder !! I have recently 'repaired' 2 cd-players which were bought modded. The soldering was appalling and the cause of the problems - 1 was a cdp from a 'well respected' modder ! - the soldering looked like it had been done with piece of scrap iron and some old lead pipe! Buy a soldering iron and practise on an old board for 1 hour and you will be good enough.
OPA627 are expensive and possibly not the best for this cd-p. They are the fashion craze of the moment. The AD826 is a good replacement as is the AD8260 or the LM6172. My own preference is the LM6171 as first i/c with a OPA627 (in class A) as the second.
Go to the thread in post 2 and ask.... I'm sure someone has !
The general concensus is that some burn-in time is required but in most cases some change should be evident immediately.
Unfortunately, the photos are not good enough to really see what mods have been made and where! There is nothing wrong with having a capacitor bank remote from where it originally was provided the wiring is well done. Take a look at some of the mods already carried out (see post 2) - these are remote but local decoupling has also been done!
In general, there is nothing wrong with the mods provided they have been well executed. However, I would say that if it has not already been done, replace the clock! you will be surprised what a difference it makes.
Good luck.
Andy
Why go to that trouble and then leave the truly poor rca sockets ???
swap these out as a matter of urgency and fit teflon insulated type and wire to the pcb with pure silver.
I can see what diode mods have been done .......if none swap the rectifier for 11dq10's or better
the back sides and top should all be damped too......
make the best interconnects you can too.
clean the fuses and fuse holders !
swap these out as a matter of urgency and fit teflon insulated type and wire to the pcb with pure silver.
I can see what diode mods have been done .......if none swap the rectifier for 11dq10's or better
the back sides and top should all be damped too......
make the best interconnects you can too.
clean the fuses and fuse holders !
zanash said:
Hi.
The Diodes have been changed and damping applied. [although the damping does not look as if it is optimal]
I had noticed that the phonos were the original. The original Marantz look pretty with gold plating - it's a pity that it does not include the signal connector!
Some replacement phono sockets are too large to fit as a direct replacement and require either a new hole cutting, which can be unsightly, or a small section filing off the board to permit fitting.
Silver wire is all well and good if you can solder [ it requires the use of silver solder rather than tin/lead solder ].
Andy
Hi,
in the first photo of the player, when u look at the down right side of the picture and below the bunch of capacitors on the right side of the cdplayer, ain't that a clock unit ? I mean the little pcb connected with, obviously speakers cable, with the main pcb.
Seems to me like the original quartz has been removed ? I wonder what else it could be...
What do u guys think ?
Thanks and best regards
in the first photo of the player, when u look at the down right side of the picture and below the bunch of capacitors on the right side of the cdplayer, ain't that a clock unit ? I mean the little pcb connected with, obviously speakers cable, with the main pcb.
Seems to me like the original quartz has been removed ? I wonder what else it could be...
What do u guys think ?
Thanks and best regards
Well, I guess it must be a clock, the wiring leads exactly from the position of the clock on the original pcb. Found some pictures of an original cd53 pcb and compared.
Whoa, I guess I must have bought one hell of a player
Me stupid listened to the marantz with cds burned with mp3 files, with these the marantz sounded a little bit shut in, but i believe the cdplayer ist only pretty much revealing !
I bought some original CDs this weekend, with these the marantz sounds just marvelous, a very musical player indeed.
Can't tell you how happy I am by now
Whoa, I guess I must have bought one hell of a player
Me stupid listened to the marantz with cds burned with mp3 files, with these the marantz sounded a little bit shut in, but i believe the cdplayer ist only pretty much revealing !
I bought some original CDs this weekend, with these the marantz sounds just marvelous, a very musical player indeed.
Can't tell you how happy I am by now
The Marantz is a good player ...it should sound better than a lot of mass market player even before the mods. after it should be special .......but may be not as good as it could be
I don't like the long speaker cable regardless of what its connecting!
the clock need to be sat right over the original position to keep the leads as short as posible and these should be tightly twisted.
We need more detailed photos to offer any more advice.
I don't like the long speaker cable regardless of what its connecting!
the clock need to be sat right over the original position to keep the leads as short as posible and these should be tightly twisted.
We need more detailed photos to offer any more advice.
ciorbarece said:Whoa, I guess I must have bought one hell of a player
Me stupid listened to the marantz with cds burned with mp3 files, with these the marantz sounded a little bit shut in, but i believe the cdplayer ist only pretty much revealing !
I bought some original CDs this weekend, with these the marantz sounds just marvelous, a very musical player indeed.
Can't tell you how happy I am by now
Hi,
It certainly is one hell of a player.
You should take a look at this thread here. (Andy, I think your link didn't get through)
All the mods for the CD63 apply to your CD53. Just start at post #1 and enjoy....
Regards,
Ray.
I just asked the previous owner what the little pcb is, unfortunately it's not a clock, he just put out the original device und dampened it.
Guess the wiring ain't very well realised, I'll shoot a few more photos of the Marantz and post them here later this day, so you guys can take a better look.
So far I'm pleased with the performance of my marantz. Well, I'm not an expert at soldering so I had to buy a modded player, fortunately I've got an old Philips CD610 which could be useful for practicing.
Catch you later then
Guess the wiring ain't very well realised, I'll shoot a few more photos of the Marantz and post them here later this day, so you guys can take a better look.
So far I'm pleased with the performance of my marantz. Well, I'm not an expert at soldering so I had to buy a modded player, fortunately I've got an old Philips CD610 which could be useful for practicing.
Catch you later then
ciorbarece said:
Don't damage the Philips CD610
if it has these dac's "PHILIPS CD-610 SAA7310 SAA7220P TDA1541 CDM4/19" in it it may give the marantz a run
http://www.diyaudio.com/forums/showthread.php?s=&postid=797187&highlight=#post797187
mod comparisons between the two would be very interesting
allan
I've already heard about the potential of the Philips 610, take a look at thismodded Philips CD-Player at ebay :
http://cgi.ebay.de/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&item=7614006073&rd=1&sspagename=STRK:MEWA:IT&rd=1
I know the seller pretty well, he's a nice guy and a truly passionated modder. He also uses OP275 in his Players, and has some Marantz Players for sale as well.
His speciality is nonoversampling Mods, has anybody listened to a nonos Player ? I heard that not everybody likes that kind of sound.
http://cgi.ebay.de/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&item=7614006073&rd=1&sspagename=STRK:MEWA:IT&rd=1
I know the seller pretty well, he's a nice guy and a truly passionated modder. He also uses OP275 in his Players, and has some Marantz Players for sale as well.
His speciality is nonoversampling Mods, has anybody listened to a nonos Player ? I heard that not everybody likes that kind of sound.
ciorbarece said:
If your cd610 has a tda1541(take a look see), his modded tda1543 will pale into insignificance.
there are a lot of things can be done with the tda1541
also to the cd53!!!! take a look at ray's thread link.
as for opamps
you can change the opamp for different sound, also to suite your personal taste.
or go passive filter with tube, fet or transistor output buffer?
allan
Hi again,
like Zanash suggested I cleaned the fuses and the RCAs. I was afraid to clean the fuse holders, didn't want to damage anything, there are a few tiny resistors in that area which looked pretty sensible. What du you guys use to clean those fuse holders ?
I used a small wire brush for the fuses and after that I cleaned them with a rag and polish. Really made those RCA sockets shine, I can tell ya.
After having the player reassembled and pluged in again, I played a few well known songs and realised an overall increase in resolution, which the player definitively was lacking before. The increasment in resolution isn't dramatic, but it's just enough to satisfy all my needs into that direction. And thats just that thing that made me a little bit unhappy with der CD53, because it came close but couldn't match the sony X202 ES in that point. Guess it still doesn't catch up the sony in that point but I believe that now I've got just enough resolution that I need.
Thank you very much for that advice !
I got a cleaner sound through cleaning the player, doesn't that sound stupid ?
like Zanash suggested I cleaned the fuses and the RCAs. I was afraid to clean the fuse holders, didn't want to damage anything, there are a few tiny resistors in that area which looked pretty sensible. What du you guys use to clean those fuse holders ?
I used a small wire brush for the fuses and after that I cleaned them with a rag and polish. Really made those RCA sockets shine, I can tell ya.
After having the player reassembled and pluged in again, I played a few well known songs and realised an overall increase in resolution, which the player definitively was lacking before. The increasment in resolution isn't dramatic, but it's just enough to satisfy all my needs into that direction. And thats just that thing that made me a little bit unhappy with der CD53, because it came close but couldn't match the sony X202 ES in that point. Guess it still doesn't catch up the sony in that point but I believe that now I've got just enough resolution that I need.
Thank you very much for that advice !
I got a cleaner sound through cleaning the player, doesn't that sound stupid ?
Hi,
One suggestion - put back the clock crystal to the PCB.
If you have the time, you can build your own clock with dedicated PSU for your CD53. It will make a great difference.
The clock mounting instructions (courtesy of LC Audio) for CD63
Marantz CD63 SE
Clock Frequency 16.9344MHz
Converter type NPC SM 5872 BS
The Crystal unit is placed on the right hand side of the main PC Board. The main PC Board is unmounted, by removing the screws holding it, and taken carefully out of ther chassis. Remove XD01, CD02 and CD03. One of the PCB solder pads on XD01 ( den closest to the rear panel ) is used to Connect Clock Out on LClock. (Red twisted wire) LClock GND (Blue twisted wire) is connected on the CD03 PCB solder pad closest to the PC Boards edge.
+12V (Single red wire) is derived on the right hand PCB solder pad of Q801, it is placed right in front of the REMOTE in-out jacks on the rear panel. Connect the red wire from LClock to the right hand PCB solder pad, when you see the CD player enclosure front the front panel side.
One suggestion - put back the clock crystal to the PCB.
If you have the time, you can build your own clock with dedicated PSU for your CD53. It will make a great difference.
The clock mounting instructions (courtesy of LC Audio) for CD63
Marantz CD63 SE
Clock Frequency 16.9344MHz
Converter type NPC SM 5872 BS
The Crystal unit is placed on the right hand side of the main PC Board. The main PC Board is unmounted, by removing the screws holding it, and taken carefully out of ther chassis. Remove XD01, CD02 and CD03. One of the PCB solder pads on XD01 ( den closest to the rear panel ) is used to Connect Clock Out on LClock. (Red twisted wire) LClock GND (Blue twisted wire) is connected on the CD03 PCB solder pad closest to the PC Boards edge.
+12V (Single red wire) is derived on the right hand PCB solder pad of Q801, it is placed right in front of the REMOTE in-out jacks on the rear panel. Connect the red wire from LClock to the right hand PCB solder pad, when you see the CD player enclosure front the front panel side.
Hi ciorbarece!
I'm no expert on clocks but that arrangement can't be good!!! Buy an Audiocom Superclock from Ebay and feed it with a separate psu: you'll be treated to not only the resolution you feel is missing, but a whole lot more on top.
By all means add new RCA sockets, but the difference is small compared to almost any other significant mod. I'd do this towards the end.
Don't expect anything more from the op-amps - I used original for a while, then OPA2604, then OPA2134, then OPA627 x 2 and really, the others are rubbish compared to 627. You should try for yourself though. Are there sockets fitted for easy swapping? If not solder some in - that will save you damaging expensive opamps.
Good luck
Simon
I'm no expert on clocks but that arrangement can't be good!!! Buy an Audiocom Superclock from Ebay and feed it with a separate psu: you'll be treated to not only the resolution you feel is missing, but a whole lot more on top.
By all means add new RCA sockets, but the difference is small compared to almost any other significant mod. I'd do this towards the end.
Don't expect anything more from the op-amps - I used original for a while, then OPA2604, then OPA2134, then OPA627 x 2 and really, the others are rubbish compared to 627. You should try for yourself though. Are there sockets fitted for easy swapping? If not solder some in - that will save you damaging expensive opamps.
Good luck
Simon
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