Good afternoon,
I have found an old CD100 Philips.
The laser was broken but I had an old CD204 and I changed the CDM0 with the CDM1 of the 204.
Than I changed all the electrolitic capacitors of the power supply to solve a terrible hum problem.
Now all seems to work well : the only little problem is that when I start the CD (so it is cold) for half a minute it is not able to play the disc : the disc begin to run very fast but it is not able to find the first track.
After half a minute it starts normally.
Another question : is it normal that after 1/2 - 1 hour of work the capacitors of the power supply became quite hot ? And is it normal that when you close the cover the disc doesn't start, but start only when you press play ?
Thank you in advance for your help.
Best Reghards.
Marco
I have found an old CD100 Philips.
The laser was broken but I had an old CD204 and I changed the CDM0 with the CDM1 of the 204.
Than I changed all the electrolitic capacitors of the power supply to solve a terrible hum problem.
Now all seems to work well : the only little problem is that when I start the CD (so it is cold) for half a minute it is not able to play the disc : the disc begin to run very fast but it is not able to find the first track.
After half a minute it starts normally.
Another question : is it normal that after 1/2 - 1 hour of work the capacitors of the power supply became quite hot ? And is it normal that when you close the cover the disc doesn't start, but start only when you press play ?
Thank you in advance for your help.
Best Reghards.
Marco
Marco,
The fact that the player needs a little warm up could be and indication that one or more caps are end of life.
Make sure you respected the correct polarity when you replaced the PSU caps. Check that first to make sure none of them explode.
As for the play button that has to be pressed, no idea, some players start without, some don't.
/Hugo: )
The fact that the player needs a little warm up could be and indication that one or more caps are end of life.
Make sure you respected the correct polarity when you replaced the PSU caps. Check that first to make sure none of them explode.
As for the play button that has to be pressed, no idea, some players start without, some don't.
/Hugo: )
And is it normal that when you close the cover the disc doesn't start, but start only
I think the CD100 is first generation top loader. These need to be activated by pressing start button before they readTOC. These machines do run rather warm after 30 mins or so the heatsink at rear will be warm to touch(but not hot).
The fact that it only reads TOC after 30 minutes may be capacitor problem, but maybe the replacement laser is not set up correctly.
You can get some idea of what's happening by watching the laser arm with the lid open.When you press play, the arm should swing to centre, oscillate up and down, and it should be possible to see the red glow of the laser.
I think the CD100 is first generation top loader. These need to be activated by pressing start button before they readTOC. These machines do run rather warm after 30 mins or so the heatsink at rear will be warm to touch(but not hot).
The fact that it only reads TOC after 30 minutes may be capacitor problem, but maybe the replacement laser is not set up correctly.
You can get some idea of what's happening by watching the laser arm with the lid open.When you press play, the arm should swing to centre, oscillate up and down, and it should be possible to see the red glow of the laser.
Re: And is it normal that when you close the cover the disc doesn't start, but start
It could also be a dry joint. Search this forum for 'griplets'. These are the through-board rivets which join the tracks to the ground plane on the reverse. Many problems in early Philips CD players are solved by removing the solder, drilling through and soldering wire links through. It's a very popular fix to a host of problems including the warmup (my CD104 had the same problem though took nearer 30 minutes - fitting wires through fixed it). It takes a while as there may be > 10 griplets depending on the board and there may also be 2 boards (servo & decode) - both with the dreaded griplets.
tony.garner said:
It could also be a dry joint. Search this forum for 'griplets'. These are the through-board rivets which join the tracks to the ground plane on the reverse. Many problems in early Philips CD players are solved by removing the solder, drilling through and soldering wire links through. It's a very popular fix to a host of problems including the warmup (my CD104 had the same problem though took nearer 30 minutes - fitting wires through fixed it). It takes a while as there may be > 10 griplets depending on the board and there may also be 2 boards (servo & decode) - both with the dreaded griplets.
Hello Marco,
I see you changed the caps in the power supply; good, but you're only half done. There are many more electrolytic caps on the servo and decode boards, as well as the transport (laser) board. Mostly 33 uf and 22 uf. Please change all, a big job, but its the only way.
Sorry Jives, but there are no griplets in the CD100...
I doubt there is any adjustment needed on the laser. Please resist 'playing' with the adjustment. Only pain and suffering await you
Did you change the clamping puck in the lid as well?
From memory, I think the motor spindle is a different shape for the cdm1 and cdm0.
And yes, I can confirm that the player will only read the TOC after 'play/next' is pressed. But you can program the track selection before hand also.
Tony, I don't think you can see the laser with the lid down. If its open the interconnect will defeat the laser supply, so nogo with the lid open. Its a 'safety' feature.
Cheers
Philippe
I see you changed the caps in the power supply; good, but you're only half done. There are many more electrolytic caps on the servo and decode boards, as well as the transport (laser) board. Mostly 33 uf and 22 uf. Please change all, a big job, but its the only way.
Sorry Jives, but there are no griplets in the CD100...
I doubt there is any adjustment needed on the laser. Please resist 'playing' with the adjustment. Only pain and suffering await you
Did you change the clamping puck in the lid as well?
From memory, I think the motor spindle is a different shape for the cdm1 and cdm0.
And yes, I can confirm that the player will only read the TOC after 'play/next' is pressed. But you can program the track selection before hand also.
Tony, I don't think you can see the laser with the lid down. If its open the interconnect will defeat the laser supply, so nogo with the lid open. Its a 'safety' feature.
Cheers
Philippe
Hello,
thank you for your support and for yours ideas.
I tried to put again the old CDM0 in the CD100 and I tried to see if the laser was really died or not : so I have not opened the CD cover to avoid the switch that stop the laser, but I opened all the upper plastic cover of the CD.
So leaving closed the CD cover, I noticed that the laser is NOT died.
Now I think that something is not good with the power supply. Infact I tried to read the CD with the CDM0 but no reading : the laser goes to center position, try to find focus but continue to move orizontally (2/3 mm, like a vibration) for 3/4 seconds and then stops. No turns by the motor.
Then I tried again with my CDM1 : same results !!
I put the CDM1 in the original CD204 and there functions perfectly.
Thank you for your help.
Best Regards.
Marco
thank you for your support and for yours ideas.
I tried to put again the old CDM0 in the CD100 and I tried to see if the laser was really died or not : so I have not opened the CD cover to avoid the switch that stop the laser, but I opened all the upper plastic cover of the CD.
So leaving closed the CD cover, I noticed that the laser is NOT died.
Now I think that something is not good with the power supply. Infact I tried to read the CD with the CDM0 but no reading : the laser goes to center position, try to find focus but continue to move orizontally (2/3 mm, like a vibration) for 3/4 seconds and then stops. No turns by the motor.
Then I tried again with my CDM1 : same results !!
I put the CDM1 in the original CD204 and there functions perfectly.
Thank you for your help.
Best Regards.
Marco
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