hi
dont want to ruin your day but let me tell you my tale....
i had the same player,it was going to be the last one i brought as i loved the build,sound,everything,paid under £1800 for it.
anyway after 14months mine developed the same problem as yours then about 2weeks after that cd reply was getting to be a problem until that gave up also.
got intouch with sony as i expected alittle more then over a yrs worth of use out of there expensive,made in japan flagship model,moreso as my old english cottage industry built cambridge cd player was still working fine after ten years use!
sonys reply was...SORRY YOUR OUT OF YOUR WARRENTY PERIOD AND THE COST AND EPAIR IS DOWN TO YOU.
needless to say i wasnt happy with that,and after many heated disscussions then threats they agreed to foot the bill for pickup and repair,the technican who got in touch with me told me the transport assembly was worn out and that it would all be replaced,total cost £500,so thank god sony was paying!
anyway when i got it back,it broke my heart to do it as i really did love this player but i sold it,just couldnt get my head around how it could be worn out so quickly and the thought of footing that bill every one to two years put me right off.
now i dont do flagship models,just buy stuff that dont cost silly money that if it breaks after a yr then it doesnt owe me anything!...sad but true.
hopefully mine might of been a one off,anywaY i wish you luck with the repair!
all the best
smithie
dont want to ruin your day but let me tell you my tale....
i had the same player,it was going to be the last one i brought as i loved the build,sound,everything,paid under £1800 for it.
anyway after 14months mine developed the same problem as yours then about 2weeks after that cd reply was getting to be a problem until that gave up also.
got intouch with sony as i expected alittle more then over a yrs worth of use out of there expensive,made in japan flagship model,moreso as my old english cottage industry built cambridge cd player was still working fine after ten years use!
sonys reply was...SORRY YOUR OUT OF YOUR WARRENTY PERIOD AND THE COST AND EPAIR IS DOWN TO YOU.
needless to say i wasnt happy with that,and after many heated disscussions then threats they agreed to foot the bill for pickup and repair,the technican who got in touch with me told me the transport assembly was worn out and that it would all be replaced,total cost £500,so thank god sony was paying!
anyway when i got it back,it broke my heart to do it as i really did love this player but i sold it,just couldnt get my head around how it could be worn out so quickly and the thought of footing that bill every one to two years put me right off.
now i dont do flagship models,just buy stuff that dont cost silly money that if it breaks after a yr then it doesnt owe me anything!...sad but true.
hopefully mine might of been a one off,anywaY i wish you luck with the repair!
all the best
smithie
My freind has had 2x Sony 9000 with the same problems, Sony had replaced the first one with a new one and now it's playing up, now they said that their not doing the high end models anymore, and offer a much cheaper model, or to have his fixed with new laser and circuit boards, but they will not say if it will fix the problem, it looks to me as Sony are getting out of the high end because of the problems they are having.
Cheers George
Cheers George
Thanks a lot Smithie, Elso and George for your replies.
This is what I was afraid off, the laser assy needs to be replaced and it’s costly.
It is indeed sad that a lot of cheaper players work fine for years and the High end break down so early.
It is even more sad when the manufacturer doesn’t give the support a High end product deserves.
We don’t get our money worth.
Sony general deals with only 5 year support of spare parts.
I asked Sony here in the Netherlands and they don’t have any on stock.
The laser assy is KHS-180A, Sony #8-820-005-02.
Dick
This is what I was afraid off, the laser assy needs to be replaced and it’s costly.
It is indeed sad that a lot of cheaper players work fine for years and the High end break down so early.
It is even more sad when the manufacturer doesn’t give the support a High end product deserves.
We don’t get our money worth.
Sony general deals with only 5 year support of spare parts.
I asked Sony here in the Netherlands and they don’t have any on stock.
The laser assy is KHS-180A, Sony #8-820-005-02.
Dick
I had the same problem. It is usually resolved by lubing the inside of the sled motor with spray deoxit and lubing the plastic gears in the sled assembly with moly grease, or else it is the laser. Here are the steps to follow. I resolved the SACD TOC read problem at the last step, but it is unlikely you have a bad solder joint on the Main Board unless you have been pulling it for mod work.
http://db.audioasylum.com/cgi/m.mpl?forum=hirez&n=221165&highlight=dave+garretson&r=&session=
Good luck,
Dave
http://db.audioasylum.com/cgi/m.mpl?forum=hirez&n=221165&highlight=dave+garretson&r=&session=
Good luck,
Dave
???????
Molykote lub is NOT for plastics but for "steelish" material. Deoxit into a motor I dunno........????
I guess you need the white grease for plastic or in this case I would use no grease at all. Thick grease actually increases the friction with bad results.
I can tell you stories about Pioneer transports.....
Very often it's a small dust or package material particle that has come between the toothes of the wheel.
Molykote lub is NOT for plastics but for "steelish" material. Deoxit into a motor I dunno........????
I guess you need the white grease for plastic or in this case I would use no grease at all. Thick grease actually increases the friction with bad results.
I can tell you stories about Pioneer transports.....
Very often it's a small dust or package material particle that has come between the toothes of the wheel.
Here are some detailed photos of the sled drive mechanism from my SCD-1, i cleaned and lubed all the gears with white lithium grease.
http://www.stevehoffman.tv/forums/showpost.php?p=1584588&postcount=80
http://www.stevehoffman.tv/forums/showpost.php?p=1584588&postcount=80
Sorry Elso, you are wrong about this one. I have studied this matter thoroughly with pro modders in the USA who extensively service SCD-1/777ES units. The common problem is that friction from dry grease in the sled gears accelerates wear in the sled motor, leading to unstable tracking and/or premature failure of the sled motor. The instability can manifest first in SACD tracking problems due to the sensitivity of the fine laser. Sometimes the sled motor can be brought back with penetrating oil and sometimes it cannot.
Regards,
Dave
Regards,
Dave
It has been awhile since I've been inside the SCD-1 transport, but my recollection is that to access the sled motor you must unsolder it from the PCB and spray deoxit or caig into holes in the motor housing on either side of the spindle. Then apply 12V in both polarities to spin up the motor in both directions and distribute the lubricant and burnish the brushes.
Also, if the CD/SACD main spindle assembly shows excessive lateral play at the collar bearings or sounds noisy during play, then the associated wobbling will first manifest as SACD read errors. The jewel end-bearing and the collar bearings should be lightly lubed from time to time to prevent premature wear.
After lubing the sled motor and gears, you will immediately notice smoother operation during loading/unloading, with no grinding of gears. Hopefully the SACD will track! Unfortunately the experience stateside is that Sony repair depots tend to replace the sled motor only after the laser and spindle motor have been replaced, when in fact the sled motor is usually the culprit.
The SCD-1/777ES has one of the best transports but it does require periodic maintenance.
Dave
Also, if the CD/SACD main spindle assembly shows excessive lateral play at the collar bearings or sounds noisy during play, then the associated wobbling will first manifest as SACD read errors. The jewel end-bearing and the collar bearings should be lightly lubed from time to time to prevent premature wear.
After lubing the sled motor and gears, you will immediately notice smoother operation during loading/unloading, with no grinding of gears. Hopefully the SACD will track! Unfortunately the experience stateside is that Sony repair depots tend to replace the sled motor only after the laser and spindle motor have been replaced, when in fact the sled motor is usually the culprit.
The SCD-1/777ES has one of the best transports but it does require periodic maintenance.
Dave
MolyKote EM-30L is perfect for CD slide mechanisms but is only available in 1Kg lots (AFAIK).
I used Tamiya switch lubricant which worked better than anything else (including Dexron III which normally works) on a stubborn drive which now doesn't miss a beat.
I've bought some Super-Lube #21010 to try as it seems to have the right properties such as PTFE and is synthetic.
I used Tamiya switch lubricant which worked better than anything else (including Dexron III which normally works) on a stubborn drive which now doesn't miss a beat.
I've bought some Super-Lube #21010 to try as it seems to have the right properties such as PTFE and is synthetic.
Warning!
Hi David, I think the directions in the link by Zero Cool are correct!
Having repaired many CDPs I concur. The mechanism is very similar to cheap CD-players.
Will you plase be carefull with those giant car batteries in the home? These monsters can give a lot of Amperes in case of short circuit, with great fire hazard. Also an overheated battery can vent gases that are highly explosive! Beware!!!
http://db.audioasylum.com/cgi/m.mpl?forum=tweaks&n=49531&highlight=elso+lead-acid&r=&session=
David Garretson said:
Hi David, I think the directions in the link by Zero Cool are correct!
Having repaired many CDPs I concur. The mechanism is very similar to cheap CD-players.
Will you plase be carefull with those giant car batteries in the home? These monsters can give a lot of Amperes in case of short circuit, with great fire hazard. Also an overheated battery can vent gases that are highly explosive! Beware!!!
http://db.audioasylum.com/cgi/m.mpl?forum=tweaks&n=49531&highlight=elso+lead-acid&r=&session=
I'm sure that lithium grease is fine. Actually, I use Campagnolo race bicycle bottom bracket grease, which has an exotic blend of magical ingredients. I believe Lance Armstrong uses it in his transport.
But despite the plastic, the helical cut gears of the SCD-1 sled must be more precise than the average commercial transport that moves the laser instead of the entire CD spindle assembly for tracking.
Regards,
Dave
But despite the plastic, the helical cut gears of the SCD-1 sled must be more precise than the average commercial transport that moves the laser instead of the entire CD spindle assembly for tracking.
Regards,
Dave
Thanks for all the help guys !
Today I opened the 777ES, made an extension cord for connecting the toploading assy while the thing lays aside.
When powering on, it is clearly seen that only one laser emits red light.
So, I have to browse for a laser assy after all.
Any recommended suppliers that have stock ?
Again, Thanks.
Today I opened the 777ES, made an extension cord for connecting the toploading assy while the thing lays aside.
When powering on, it is clearly seen that only one laser emits red light.
So, I have to browse for a laser assy after all.
Any recommended suppliers that have stock ?
Again, Thanks.
djmiddelkoop said:
Sony uses this same laser assembly in at least a half dozen models so they should be readily available. However. from reading the service manual. installation is not so easy. requiring 4 test CD's and a special alignment jig to set height that is impossible to get.
I have a friend that is an authorized Sony repair tech and he cant even get the CD's or jig!! I was hoping to be able to purchase a set and then learn how to do the set up but no luck.
Sorry thats not much help. If you find a good deal on the lasers. let me know. my understanding is that they are around $100.00
Zc
Laser allignment & Defeating Top Cover
While it is preferable to allign the laser with a scope & test disks, it is not necessary. Prior to removing the old laser, measure the distance to the nearest .5mm, between the top of the pick-up assembly at each end, to reference points on the gray spindle cover below. Replicate these heights with the replacement laser and you should be OK. The CDP will tolerate some variation in laser height and tilt is electronic-servo controlled. After it is working, vary the height a bit in both directions and tune by ear. If you have a good ear you can locate the position with the lowest jitter.
During servicing the unit can be operated without the top cover by temporarily bridging the solder pads marked "loading assy short lands" just to the left of the main board connector that receives the ribbon cable from the top cover.
Good luck.
Dave
While it is preferable to allign the laser with a scope & test disks, it is not necessary. Prior to removing the old laser, measure the distance to the nearest .5mm, between the top of the pick-up assembly at each end, to reference points on the gray spindle cover below. Replicate these heights with the replacement laser and you should be OK. The CDP will tolerate some variation in laser height and tilt is electronic-servo controlled. After it is working, vary the height a bit in both directions and tune by ear. If you have a good ear you can locate the position with the lowest jitter.
During servicing the unit can be operated without the top cover by temporarily bridging the solder pads marked "loading assy short lands" just to the left of the main board connector that receives the ribbon cable from the top cover.
Good luck.
Dave
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