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#71 |
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diyAudio Member
Join Date: Jan 2004
Location: Discovery Bay, Prague, Paris...
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Here’s a simple Un-buffered CMOS logic based circuit that will multiple 5.6448MHz from the clock-lock output – to 16.9344MHz – to drive your Sony based chipset TEAC.
John
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Life shouldn’t be take it too seriously, you will not come out alive anyway… |
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#72 |
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diyAudio Member
Join Date: Jan 2007
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Thanks for that John. I'll let you know how I get on.
Jeremy |
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#73 |
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diyAudio Member
Join Date: Jan 2007
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As an alternative to the clock sync, as my teac is the same frequency, could I not take the 16.9Mhz directly from the clock module and send it back to the transport via a 74hcu04?
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#74 |
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diyAudio Member
Join Date: May 2007
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Jeremy, this is slightly off topic, but I'm unable to email you directly due to being a new member.
I require a similar clock multiplier (2X rather than 3X) but as a novice I have a few dumb questions about the diagram John posted. Hope you don't mind me asking, but if you can spare the time, could you drop me an email. It would be a huge help. All the best, Tim |
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#75 |
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diyAudio Member
Join Date: Jul 2004
Location: Sudbury, Ontario Canada
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Can someone please tell me what op amps would be drop-in replacements for the AD711 and AD712's in the IsoMagic? Cost is not a consideration, only performance. Thanks.
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Dan |
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#76 | |
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diyAudio Member
Join Date: Jul 2004
Location: Sudbury, Ontario Canada
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Quote:
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Dan |
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#77 |
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diyAudio Member
Join Date: Feb 2010
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Hi,
This is my first post. After reading all threads about Isomagic "magic" I found and bought Iso+Discmagic combo to replace my CD4SE+Dacmagic2i. I am very impressed after just few hours of listening. It is hard to belive my ears. Microscope is good comparision. Or good binoculars. Unbelivable details and focused sources. After a while I remembered what JohnW wrote on 5th January 2004: "I know some HARD Hi-Fi enthusiasts - and I mean HARD - I can only spend half a day with them before I need a real swift JD & Coke, they use modified Isomagics (2 boards connected together to make separate L & R units) and have found nothing that betters them - even today" I am very curious how to do it - connect two Isomagic boards. Any details from forum members? May be Mr John Westlake himself would write some directions? Regards, Jarek |
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#78 |
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diyAudio Member
Join Date: Jan 2012
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I'm new to this forum so first a quick "hello" to everyone.
I'm the proud owner of an Isomagic and Discmagic combo which I am in the process of tweaking in an effort to get the best out of them. So far I have upgraded the big electrolytic caps with nichicon Fine Golds and most of the small caps inside the Isomagic with Elna Cerafins. I have been really pleased with the results so far and I would now like to upgrade the external power supply for the Isomagic. I'm quite practical but I have virtually no knowledge of electronics. Would anyone be kind enough to provide me with a circuit diagram and a list of the components they used to build their upgraded PSU? I might just be able to build my own if I have a idiot proof recipe! Many thanks, Mike |
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#79 |
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diyAudio Member
Join Date: Jan 2012
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Well for anyone interested I did eventually manage to build an upgraded PSU for it. The new PSU has separate power supply circuits for the audio left and right channels and another separte circuit for the digital section. The circuits were built on PO5 boards available from Rod Elliot and made up as per the instructions on the Rod Elliot website with LM317/LM319 regulators.
The audio channels are powered by a 25VA 15V toroidal transformer and the digital supply uses the original E core. I have fitted an IEC type power inlet, a power on LED and and an on/off switch. The whole thing is housed in a nice alloy case from Maplin with stick on rubber feet and painted stain black to match my Linn amps and Discmagic transport. This is my first ever DIY build so I'm quite pleased with it. I have also made some upgrades to my matching Discmagic transport which have made a big difference, details and pics of both available on request. |
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