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#1 |
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diyAudio Member
Join Date: Oct 2005
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My Teac VRDS10 has started to suffer from intermittant random jumping whilst playing. It does this on virtually every CD and sometimes jumps through a whole album in a couple of minutes. Has anyone else suffered from this and can anyone offer any help?
Thanks |
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#2 |
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diyAudio Member
Join Date: Apr 2004
Location: at home
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Several TEAC VRDS transports suffer from a broken stable platter, the disc that is put on top of the CD. If it is a black one, then probably there are very fine cracks, hardly visible, in the center just around the metal shaft. Under various temperature conditions and also randomly, skipping occurs because of this.
The disc will have to be replaced by a Teac service center. The green stable platters appear to be much more reliable and do rarely have to be replaced. Other possibilities are everything from weakened laser-units via weak spindle motors up to defective servo-chips and bad power supplies. But check the disc first, that's 90% of the times the culprit. |
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#3 |
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DIY !
diyAudio Member
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-you must be joking!
Platter is made of a (aluminium)alloy, and would only crack with help of a hammer. A worn or dirty laser, or just out of adjustment will make the player skip. Also check & clean the laser-slide & "wheel". Arne K
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Ars longa, vita brevis |
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#4 |
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diyAudio Member
Join Date: Apr 2004
Location: at home
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Don't know about the VRDS10, but a whole lot of TEACs use PLASTIC platters. And the black ones DO fail. All of them.
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#5 |
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DIY !
diyAudio Member
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CD-mechanism on VRDS-10 is similar to VRDS-25, wich is similar to Wadia 270 & 861... ( CMK-3x)
Arne K
__________________
Ars longa, vita brevis |
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#6 | |
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diyAudio Member
Join Date: Jan 2005
Location: Phoenix, Az.
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Quote:
I fixed it very easily. There are just two small belts in the player- one that opens and closes the drawer, and the other that drives the lift that presses the disc against the platter. If the lift belt slips, it won't press the disc against the platter hard enough and the result will be skipping. I replaced the belts and the thing works like new again. I was not able to locate exact replacements for the belts (they use those square cross section things) so I used O-rings from the hardware store. Total cost- $1.58 plus about 3 hours to disassemble and reassemble the player. I_F |
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#7 |
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diyAudio Member
Join Date: Jun 2006
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My first post here please help the n00b!
Hi I have the same problem with skipping and draw but mine also has problems with its controls i.e. they swap opperations. Kind regards, FTI |
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#8 |
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diyAudio Member
Join Date: Jun 2006
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.....Oh yes I forgot to mention sometimes the draw wont open, But when it opens it closes imediately.
Kind regards, FTI. |
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#9 |
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diyAudio Member
Join Date: Jun 2006
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OK, so reading into what people have been saying here my skipping and drawer not opening probably is a belt related issue, BUT sometimes the draw as I have said opens and closes imediately.
ANY IDEAS? Also the controls on the front of the machine do what they want i.e. "stop" sometimes "plays", "FF" sometimes "stops"etc. PLEASE ADVISE. |
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#10 | |
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diyAudio Member
Join Date: Jan 2005
Location: Phoenix, Az.
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Quote:
Good luck! I_F |
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