Marantz CD-52MkII how to arrest hardness?

ewhale · 14th November 2005, 10:18 AM

I have bought a second-hand Marantz CD-52MkII that functions very well. I'm interested to know if there is anything I can do to reduce the hardness and brightness. There is very little information about this model on the net. Thanks for reading.

316a · 14th November 2005, 10:32 AM

Hi ,
Replacing the rectifier diodes with schottkeys would probably be the best place to start . Followed by that replace the power electrolytics with low impedence types and bypass these low value film caps . Even in the KI models the diodes are standard types , I kept the Elna Silmics capacitors that were in mine and just added bypasses . Changing to schottkeys is a cheap mod and you'll notice the difference instantly

cheers

316a

ewhale · 14th November 2005, 02:53 PM

Hi 316a. Thanks for the reply. I'm very new to the DIY world. So far, I have only tried replacing the caps in my speaker crossover. Thanks for the suggestion. I'm going to find out about the schottkeys.

jomar · 14th November 2005, 03:01 PM

Beef up the power supply caps with low ESR caps like Panasonic FCs or Rubycon ZLs and bypass them with 0.1uf X7R caps... quite cheap and good at Farnell or at koba.

Remove also the muting transistors .. sound is more open.

316a · 14th November 2005, 03:22 PM

Quote:

Originally posted by ewhale
Hi 316a. Thanks for the reply. I'm very new to the DIY world. So far, I have only tried replacing the caps in my speaker crossover. Thanks for the suggestion. I'm going to find out about the schottkeys.

Hi ,
Also line the inside of the top cover with Dynamat , use any offcuts to damp the transport . Other simple mods for Marantz players are to add a mains filter and change the output jacks . The output jacks on my CD-63 KI had horrible dry joints upon inspection and only were gold plated on the ground connection

cheers

316a

ewhale · 15th November 2005, 03:38 AM

Quote:

Originally posted by 316a
Hi ,
Replacing the rectifier diodes with schottkeys would probably be the best place to start . Followed by that replace the power electrolytics with low impedence types and bypass these low value film caps . Even in the KI models the diodes are standard types , I kept the Elna Silmics capacitors that were in mine and just added bypasses . Changing to schottkeys is a cheap mod and you'll notice the difference instantly

cheers

316a

The sound will be affected in what way when the rectifier diodes are replaced with schottkeys? Generally what will I experience in terms of sound when they are replaced? What is the effect before and after burn-in? Thanks for your patience. My objective is to reduce hardness and brightness.

ewhale · 15th November 2005, 03:38 AM

Quote:

Originally posted by jomar
Beef up the power supply caps with low ESR caps like Panasonic FCs or Rubycon ZLs and bypass them with 0.1uf X7R caps... quite cheap and good at Farnell or at koba.

Remove also the muting transistors .. sound is more open.

Hi Jomar. Thanks for the response. Farnell and Koba are selling online only? Do you know where can I get the Schottkey diodes and the low ESR caps you mentioned in Singapore? So far I have only tried replacing the crossover caps in my speaker to Solen. I got them from a shop almost right next to the Martin at Burlington Square.

ewhale · 16th November 2005, 08:20 AM

I have followed the instruction on this Web page to remove the muting transistors.

http://margo.student.utwente.nl/klaas/audio_cd.htm

There were 4 of them at the bottom of the PCB. It is so small I took a while to find them. It is very hard to remove them without destroying them. I tried unsoldering but they remained tightly coupled to the PCB. In the end, they were pryed and removed in small pieces.

I did notice the change in sound immediately. There were more clarity. This mod coupled with the replaced caps in my Mission M71 bookshelf makes the sound much less harsh, more dynamic, and detailed.

It is really amazing how far we can go with so little effort and money.

I have yet to find the rectifier diodes on my CD player. Perhaps it is hidden under the transport? I think changing the rectifier diodes will be my project for this weekend.

If you guys know where it is please let me know.

Thanks again for all the help.

Hacker · 18th November 2005, 04:21 PM

Do you have any pictures of the inside of your player? They'd help in finding the rectifier diodes. I'm also replacing mine (in a cd6000 ki) with schottky (there's no 'e' in schottky) types this weekend. Good luck!

brianuk · 18th November 2005, 05:21 PM

mr Hacker has a busy weekend ahead

, hope mrs Hacker has a good supply of wine, or better still get the F* out to a friends house.

Just playing JMJ LOUD on my new 250. My Arcam has schottky's so far im not convinced, might be the wrong types (just what I had handy) but its early days and I changed caps at the same time.

Might try to get hold of some 11dq10 to try, is that what you are using Hacker ?

14th November 2005, 10:18 AM	#1
ewhale diyAudio Member Join Date: Nov 2005	Marantz CD-52MkII how to arrest hardness? I have bought a second-hand Marantz CD-52MkII that functions very well. I'm interested to know if there is anything I can do to reduce the hardness and brightness. There is very little information about this model on the net. Thanks for reading.

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14th November 2005, 10:32 AM	#2
316a diyAudio Member Join Date: Dec 2002 Location: West London	Hi , Replacing the rectifier diodes with schottkeys would probably be the best place to start . Followed by that replace the power electrolytics with low impedence types and bypass these low value film caps . Even in the KI models the diodes are standard types , I kept the Elna Silmics capacitors that were in mine and just added bypasses . Changing to schottkeys is a cheap mod and you'll notice the difference instantly cheers 316a

14th November 2005, 02:53 PM	#3
ewhale diyAudio Member Join Date: Nov 2005	Hi 316a. Thanks for the reply. I'm very new to the DIY world. So far, I have only tried replacing the caps in my speaker crossover. Thanks for the suggestion. I'm going to find out about the schottkeys.

14th November 2005, 03:01 PM	#4
jomar diyAudio Member Join Date: Mar 2005 Location: Basement	Beef up the power supply caps with low ESR caps like Panasonic FCs or Rubycon ZLs and bypass them with 0.1uf X7R caps... quite cheap and good at Farnell or at koba. Remove also the muting transistors .. sound is more open.

16th November 2005, 08:20 AM	#8
ewhale diyAudio Member Join Date: Nov 2005	I have followed the instruction on this Web page to remove the muting transistors. http://margo.student.utwente.nl/klaas/audio_cd.htm There were 4 of them at the bottom of the PCB. It is so small I took a while to find them. It is very hard to remove them without destroying them. I tried unsoldering but they remained tightly coupled to the PCB. In the end, they were pryed and removed in small pieces. I did notice the change in sound immediately. There were more clarity. This mod coupled with the replaced caps in my Mission M71 bookshelf makes the sound much less harsh, more dynamic, and detailed. It is really amazing how far we can go with so little effort and money. I have yet to find the rectifier diodes on my CD player. Perhaps it is hidden under the transport? I think changing the rectifier diodes will be my project for this weekend. If you guys know where it is please let me know. Thanks again for all the help.

18th November 2005, 04:21 PM	#9
Hacker diyAudio Member Join Date: Aug 2005	Do you have any pictures of the inside of your player? They'd help in finding the rectifier diodes. I'm also replacing mine (in a cd6000 ki) with schottky (there's no 'e' in schottky) types this weekend. Good luck!

18th November 2005, 05:21 PM	#10
brianuk diyAudio Member Join Date: Apr 2004 Location: britain	mr Hacker has a busy weekend ahead , hope mrs Hacker has a good supply of wine, or better still get the F* out to a friends house. Just playing JMJ LOUD on my new 250. My Arcam has schottky's so far im not convinced, might be the wrong types (just what I had handy) but its early days and I changed caps at the same time. Might try to get hold of some 11dq10 to try, is that what you are using Hacker ?

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