Cambridge Audio IsoMagic & DisMagic problem
I have a high-pitched whine and general hash. Cannot be heard when CD is in play, but is there at end of CD and on pause. I expect it is, in fact, there all the time but obscured within extended highs. Further to my post, the noise is there no matter the digital connect configuration, whenever the clock-link is switched on.
ThunderCable is a mass-market toslink supplied by a major Canadian electronics parts house. It does not cause problems in other configurations and will be replaced by another Kimber kable.
I have a high-pitched whine and general hash. Cannot be heard when CD is in play, but is there at end of CD and on pause. I expect it is, in fact, there all the time but obscured within extended highs. Further to my post, the noise is there no matter the digital connect configuration, whenever the clock-link is switched on.
ThunderCable is a mass-market toslink supplied by a major Canadian electronics parts house. It does not cause problems in other configurations and will be replaced by another Kimber kable.
audiobomber said:
Thanks for your advice Dan (audiobomber). I was already aware of this, and after the initial testing I have been meaning to aquire such glass-based Toslink cables (easily availlable in the famous Akihabara electrical district of Tokyo). I am of course curious about your upgraded power supply. Is it something you designed and built by yourself, or is it a mod of a commercially availlable unit?
I may post my impressions later after having tried the two way real glass link
Re: Cambridge Audio IsoMagic & DisMagic problem
It sounds to me like the clock link circuit is not engaging. Does the red LED in the very center of the IsoMagic light up when you switch the clock lock toggle?
I wouldn't bother with another Kimber Toslink if I were you. It doesn't compare to glass and it's pricey.
eleakist said:
It sounds to me like the clock link circuit is not engaging. Does the red LED in the very center of the IsoMagic light up when you switch the clock lock toggle?
I wouldn't bother with another Kimber Toslink if I were you. It doesn't compare to glass and it's pricey.
elecon said:
Thanks for your advice Dan (audiobomber). I was already aware of this, and after the initial testing I have been meaning to aquire such glass-based Toslink cables (easily availlable in the famous Akihabara electrical district of Tokyo). I am of course curious about your upgraded power supply. Is it something you designed and built by yourself, or is it a mod of a commercially availlable unit?
I may post my impressions later after having tried the two way real glass link
My PS came from Welborne Labs.
http://www.welbornelabs.com/modsandmodules.htm
Re: Re: Re: Cambridge Audio IsoMagic & DisMagic problem
Bingo! There's your problem. Once the clock lock is synched, a red light appears in the display panel of the IsoMagic. It's almost impossible to see until it's lit. Its' just to the left of the track info, right in the center of the machine. If it's not lit, you have no clock lock, and you haven't really heard what a properly functioning DiscMagic/IsoMagic can do.eleakist said:
Re: Re: Re: Re: Re: Cambridge Audio IsoMagic & DisMagic problem
First make sure it's not your connectors. If the problem is not the cables, or the way they're connected, then you need a repair. If you're knowledgeable enough to tackle it yourself, you'll find a lot of info through the SEARCH function here. Otherwise you can have it repaired through the local Cambridge distributor.
If you want to tackle this yourself, I have the circuit diagrams for the transport, but I don't know of anyone who has a sketch for the DAC.
eleakist said:
First make sure it's not your connectors. If the problem is not the cables, or the way they're connected, then you need a repair. If you're knowledgeable enough to tackle it yourself, you'll find a lot of info through the SEARCH function here. Otherwise you can have it repaired through the local Cambridge distributor.
If you want to tackle this yourself, I have the circuit diagrams for the transport, but I don't know of anyone who has a sketch for the DAC.
Re: Re: Re: Re: Re: Re: Cambridge Audio IsoMagic & DisMagic problem
Thanks for these tips. I am now running with a matched pair of .5m Kimber OPT-1 and have a red light indicating clock-lock. This does sound significantly improved from the "off / no clock-lock" position. The toslink connections are somewhat flaky but are now as solid as possible after turning the interconnect a few times for optimal contact. This will need some serious evaluation, but my immediate reaction is that this compares favourably with either my McIntosh CD7000 and Revox B225 players, as well as the Philips CD960 with the IsoPlat. If you have any recommendations for a glass toslink interconnect please write or post. Please be sure to drop a note and look me up when you are next in Ottawa.
audiobomber said:
Thanks for these tips. I am now running with a matched pair of .5m Kimber OPT-1 and have a red light indicating clock-lock. This does sound significantly improved from the "off / no clock-lock" position. The toslink connections are somewhat flaky but are now as solid as possible after turning the interconnect a few times for optimal contact. This will need some serious evaluation, but my immediate reaction is that this compares favourably with either my McIntosh CD7000 and Revox B225 players, as well as the Philips CD960 with the IsoPlat. If you have any recommendations for a glass toslink interconnect please write or post. Please be sure to drop a note and look me up when you are next in Ottawa.
ISOMAGIC circuit diagram ? One channel out...
Hello,
Can anyone help with a circuit diagram of the IsoMagic? One of my channels died a year or two ago and I really (really!) want to get it back up.
Thanks,
Step van Schalkwyk
step(at)remcam(dot)net
where (at)=@ etc.
PS. While I have it open, would anyone recommend new opamps? Something like the new National ultra low distortion, high SN ones?
Hello,
Can anyone help with a circuit diagram of the IsoMagic? One of my channels died a year or two ago and I really (really!) want to get it back up.
Thanks,
Step van Schalkwyk
step(at)remcam(dot)net
where (at)=@ etc.
PS. While I have it open, would anyone recommend new opamps? Something like the new National ultra low distortion, high SN ones?
RX176 Optical Input
Back again. The change to Sonic Wave made a great difference all around. Moved the system to a new rack and this was the kiss of death. The RX176 Optical Input no longer works. I have traced the entire circuit and find output at the DAC reclock but noting received by the transport. Not the cables; resoldered the entire input board, re-tested - nadda. Any known source for the RC176. I have just written to someone who had 8 on offer in May 2007, but am not optimistic.
Regards,
barry
Back again. The change to Sonic Wave made a great difference all around. Moved the system to a new rack and this was the kiss of death. The RX176 Optical Input no longer works. I have traced the entire circuit and find output at the DAC reclock but noting received by the transport. Not the cables; resoldered the entire input board, re-tested - nadda. Any known source for the RC176. I have just written to someone who had 8 on offer in May 2007, but am not optimistic.
Regards,
barry
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