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#1 |
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diyAudio Member
Join Date: Sep 2005
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Hi you all,
I have a Philips CD100 from 1982 that won't read the TOC nor start playing or anything, It was still working perfectly when i replaced it with a front loading machine in the early 90s, it sat unused and untouched in it's original box under my bed for all those years, now it's dead. Can someone help me to revive my trasured Cd player? it was bought used by my grandpa for my 12th birthday. guy at Philips service center just looked at it and said "sorry but trash it", we won't repair such an old thing, you can get a new DVD player with the cost of the repair estimate, period. Thanks Francesco |
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#2 |
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diyAudio Member
Join Date: Oct 2005
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Hi Francesco,
Not sure I can help, but I would say don't trash it. This is based on the Philips CDM0 mechanism which should be pretty reliable, although the laser could have given up. I recently bought a Micromega which wouldn't read a single CD. It is based on the Philips CDM4. I took it apart, undid all connectors and put it back together. Now it works perfectly!! So try that first. If that fails, then have a look at this site for all other CD players that used that mechanism: http://hifi.nn.gx.cn/well/wellview.h...num=1&pernum=1 You could try to pick up any of the following cheap off ebay and swap the CDM0 over. PHILIPS CD-200 PHILIPS CD-202 PHILIPS CD-204 PHILIPS CD-104 ? could be a CDM0 or CDM1 Good luck. |
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#3 |
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diyAudio Member
Join Date: Mar 2004
Location: Hampshire
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I have had similar experiences with a slightly later Philips CD104.
there are a few threads on repairing these in this fourm, just search for CD104 in the subject. Mine has exhibited an inability to read the ToC from Cold. have you tried leaving it on for an hour then try ? Sounds strange but these vintage payers suffered from some dry joints between the double sides of the boards. Also lots of internal cable connections which can come unseated or oxidised. |
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#4 |
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diyAudio Member
Join Date: Sep 2005
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Hi,
My Cd100 is working again! the lid switch was broken, now it even reads CD-R's perfectly and *tries* to read CD-RW's! But i still have a problem, when the unit is still cold and i have just turned it on, if i try to play a CD immediately, i get loud bursts of mains hum on the output and the CD fails to initialize, but it will work perfectly a few seconds later, this problem disappears when the unit is warm, both if the unit has been left on or when exposed to an external heat source. also, the display leds are sometimes flashing erratically during track seeking or cueing. when i took it apart to fix the switch i have seen no double sided boards inside, just old school single faced bakelite PCBs and no SMD chips. Thanks Francesco. |
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#5 |
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diyAudio Member
Join Date: Oct 2005
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That's fantastic news! I think the other problem is beyond my electronics skills, but could it possibly be a failing component in the power supply? Maybe an old capacitor starting to give up?
To find this type of fault may require specific knowledge and test equipment. Maybe a local electronics specialist could check it out. Sounds very fixable though. Cheers. |
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#6 |
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diyAudio Member
Join Date: May 2005
Location: Stuttgart / Germany
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Hi,
I just have found this thread. So maybe you are still interested. I have a copy of the original connection diagram/sheme. I have pimped my old CD100 with better capacitors and ne OPs. I really like the sound of this oldtimmer regards Till
__________________
http://www.hornlautsprecher.de |
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#7 |
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diyAudio Member
Join Date: Sep 2005
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Hello,
Can you upload it here? Now it's no longer making that noise when it's turned on, maybe because it's summer and it's a temperature related fault. Anyway, i will replace the electrolytic filter cap in the power supply someday, it's suspect since it's an Asian made Towa capacitor, i will install a NOS 80s axial leaded philips capacitor in its place. i won't touch the original Philips axial leaded blue capacitors mounted in the audio board of the CD100, these are far more reliable than modern Asian made radial leaded consumer capacitors, whose expected lifespan is far less than 10 years, while Philips capacitors can be expected to last 30-40 years (most early-mid 60s ones i have encountered while restoring vintage Philips gear still have excellent ESR and capacity readings. Today you can expect this kind of quality and reliability only from professional 105 C° industrial Elna electrolytics or from military tantalum capacitors. Francesco. |
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#8 |
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diyAudio Member
Join Date: May 2005
Location: Stuttgart / Germany
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Hi
side 8-3: ![]() side 8-4: ![]() side 8-6: ![]() side 8-8: ![]() side 8-11: ![]() side 8-12: ![]() side 8-15: ![]() here is my pimping: 8-3: ![]() 8-15: ![]() hope that I could help you Till
__________________
http://www.hornlautsprecher.de |
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#9 |
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diyAudio Member
Join Date: Apr 2005
Location: Fredericia, DK
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Well, you certainly helped others than Francesco.
I have one of these old beauties too, and it's playing like a dream, cdr's too, there's something about the sound i like too. Are there more pages than those ? I'm thinking of pcb layout and disassembling, it might be aesier to tweak it that way. But still i was just passing by when i saw this thread, and i'm very grateful for the schematic. Al the best for you all. Ebbe |
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#10 | |
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diyAudio Member
Join Date: May 2005
Location: Stuttgart / Germany
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Quote:
Hi Ebbe yes there are also the PCBs but I haven't scanned them yet. If I get the time I will do that and post them here. regards till
__________________
http://www.hornlautsprecher.de |
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