Sony CDP-222ESD tweaking

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Hello Everybody :)

I'm a newbee, and this is my first post on the board, so go easy on me... :D

I own aforementoned player, and was wondering what further tweaks can I apply on it.
So far, I have removed the mute transistors, rolled the op-amps (used op275 and ad826), exchanged the power cord, isolated the crystal from vibration (unsoldered it, isolated with foam, and then attached to the PCB via two very flexible wires)...

The player gained in soundstage widh and depth and overall speed and clarity...

What more can I do?

Cheers....

P.S. I would be thankfull if somebody who has it, would email the
 
Thx Bernhard :)

Nobody else? :(

OK, here are the pictures of the player's insides, and an hi-res picture of it's PCB...

http://albums.photo.epson.com/j/AlbumIndex?u=4299815&a=31727927


It is intresting that I cannot find much info on this player on the net except it's manifacturing date (1987). Wasn't too popular in it's time? :rolleyes:

Its made around the TDA 1541 DAC, like it's bigger brother (the 333ESD) wich was going for 1000+ Eur (modified) when I bought mine for 150 Eur (3-4 years ago) :dead: Do they share some parts or simular construction?

Anybody got any idea what more can I do with it?

Cheers...

P.S. On the hi-res picture of the PCB, you can see the topology and the symbols on the PCB and elements if it's any help....

P.P.S. Nobody has the service manual? :(
 
Kitjunky said:
God I used to own one of those but gave it to a friend in need about 5 years ago, It served me well for 12 years the only fault being a slipping tray drive belt. It was a pretty nice sounding player to if memory serves me correctly. Im now listening to a heavily modded XB770 @ the mo. you can see some of the mods done to this on my website www.extreme-x.co.uk

Chris:)

THX Chris,

Can you just clarify wich model was your former player (because in the title of your responce you wrote 222ES , and this model is 222ESD), just to see are we talking about the same player :D

This is one other thing that's a puzzle to me...

What does ESD stand for, or how much diferent is the ESD version diferent from the ES version of the player? :xeye:

I was able to find a lot info on 222ES on the net, and it seems that it's made around PCM56P J DAC.
Is that one better sounding than TDA 1541? (damn you Sony and your hundred variations of the markings :D )

If somebody else's got an idea feel free to join the discussion ;)

And, if some kind soul has the service manual for my player, please send it? (I'm geting reeaallyy boring with this, am I? :D )

Cheers...
 
Scorpio(DDMF)! said:


I was able to find a lot info on 222ES on the net, and it seems that it's made around PCM56P J DAC.
Is that one better sounding than TDA 1541? (damn you Sony and your hundred variations of the markings :D )


IMHO the D stands for digital out.

IMHO some PCM56 are better than TDA1541/A but some S1 or S2 might be as good.

IMHO DAC chips need to be selected by end user.
 
From the CDP222ESD/505ESD/910 service Manual

Regards
James
 

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222ESD mod

hi scorpio , you should try a I/V conversion with a simple resistor of 100 ohms tapped between iout of 1541 and ground .After that you hook a wire and a coupling cap(8 uF) between pinout and RCA plug , that's all .No need of pos-filtering since there is O/S .
Try it and say us how you feel . Thee only drawback is that you
got to loss some level , you would have around 400mV instead of
2 V , but i think it's sufficient .Ah , don't forget to cut the path to the analogue stage .(generally there is a serie resistor between the DAC and the first opamp).Now you have almost the same implementation than a10.000 euros Wadia 2000 .Enjoy !
 
Re: 222ESD mod

guytou said:
hi scorpio , you should try a I/V conversion with a simple resistor of 100 ohms tapped between iout of 1541 and ground .After that you hook a wire and a coupling cap(8 uF) between pinout and RCA plug , that's all .No need of pos-filtering since there is O/S .
Try it and say us how you feel . Thee only drawback is that you
got to loss some level , you would have around 400mV instead of
2 V , but i think it's sufficient .Ah , don't forget to cut the path to the analogue stage .(generally there is a serie resistor between the DAC and the first opamp).Now you have almost the same implementation than a10.000 euros Wadia 2000 .Enjoy !

Not only will you loose level,you will also loose drive and your CD player will now be extremely sensitiive to the kind of load presented by the cable and downstream kit.
And you will have nothing remotely comparable, technically speaking, to a Wadia.
 
Sorry with late reply. Yes, I mean that. The disk drive generate a lot of EMF noise.
The covering should be para-magnetic steel sheet, which will well absorb the magnetic wave noise, also electrical wave noise. You can buy galvnized steel sheet from tools&hardware store.
:D
 
guytou said:
hi scorpio , you should try a I/V conversion with a simple resistor of 100 ohms tapped between iout of 1541 and ground .After that you hook a wire and a coupling cap(8 uF) between pinout and RCA plug , that's all .No need of pos-filtering since there is O/S .
Try it and say us how you feel . Thee only drawback is that you
got to loss some level , you would have around 400mV instead of
2 V , but i think it's sufficient .Ah , don't forget to cut the path to the analogue stage .(generally there is a serie resistor between the DAC and the first opamp).Now you have almost the same implementation than a10.000 euros Wadia 2000 .Enjoy !

OK, thx, will try this. Sorry to ask, but what kind of capacitor should I use? :confused:
Will an simple pulling of the opamps out of their sockets do the trick for "loosing the analogue stage", or I'll need to desolder an resistor?

Originally posted by rfbrw
Not only will you loose level,you will also loose drive and your CD player will now be extremely sensitiive to the kind of load presented by the cable and downstream kit.
And you will have nothing remotely comparable, technically speaking, to a Wadia.

Can you point me to the name of this procedure, so I can do a search and see all pros and cons, rather than bothering you all to write your thoughts on it again? :angel:


Originally posted by Kitjunky
For a start I would replace C506 & C406 with at least 47uF 50v Nichicon Muse or Black Gates or Elna Silmic.

I would also replace C416 & C417 with 470uf 25v or more Nichicon Muse

This should give a deeper more controlled bass responce

Chris :)


THX Chris, will try...

Cheers :D

P.S. Boy, this will be one busy weekend :devilr:
 
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