avr300 said:
AVR,
Luckily I couldn't tell you anything new.
My point is, there's more to a PSU than the current capacity of the tranny. Although the shared primary winding might be able of 10VA or more, there's not less than 300mA going through the first elco for a 15mA load. Unfortunately I can't make a screenshot on this Windhoos box, else I could show you some modelling I did a couple of months ago.
Haven't you tried Fleas on your opamps?
Jaap
NB The meaning of R versus L filtering is nicely put in context in this 1985 document.
It's in the last two pages. kinda hard to read.
avr300 said:Yes, lucky that
"there's not less than 300mA going through the first elco for a 15mA load"
??
Haven't made a neg. Flea yet, so no. And that little fellow can't source more than 50mA with the AD797 - just enough for the opamp.
Yes mate, that's the 100Hz current flowing through the first 1.000uF after the rectifier for only 15mA load.
Questions...
Hello,
I have ( always ) stupid questions ( I've already mailed some to Ray... sorry ) :
where is the last Ray's list for component update, on the very first pages only some old ones...
May I respect case as when C803 from 470uF to 2200 for CD53's list but 6800 for the CD67?!
I don't know how much the players match...
Now I've red things that does not goes the same way...
as upgrading the opamps without better components around is useless, or upgrading these is a easy and neat improvement...
and as for Farnell's order of the list, it's more expensive than an Audiocom kit with SuperClock II and regs!
I'm lost...
Clock & Reg with opamps first or pcb components first ? If all i'll go that far, it'll be over 300€... far too much for me, this is already over the price of the player when new! but if it'll sound like a over 1000€ cdp...
If I can do the best for the bucks mods...
thanks!
Hello,
I have ( always
) stupid questions ( I've already mailed some to Ray... sorry ) :where is the last Ray's list for component update, on the very first pages only some old ones...
May I respect case as when C803 from 470uF to 2200 for CD53's list but 6800 for the CD67?!
I don't know how much the players match...
Now I've red things that does not goes the same way...
as upgrading the opamps without better components around is useless, or upgrading these is a easy and neat improvement...
and as for Farnell's order of the list, it's more expensive than an Audiocom kit with SuperClock II and regs!
I'm lost...
Clock & Reg with opamps first or pcb components first ? If all i'll go that far, it'll be over 300€... far too much for me, this is already over the price of the player when new! but if it'll sound like a over 1000€ cdp...
If I can do the best for the bucks mods...
thanks!
Hi Malefoda,
The CD63 list is a bit outdated, but most mods of the newer CD57/67 list apply to the CD53/63. There are some differences in the PSU though. C803/804 are one of those. In the CD57/67 there's a lot more room for these caps, so 6800u won't fit in a '53.
The 2u2 and 1u go on the underside of the board, in parallel with the big caps, just like the PPS SMD caps. 50 or 63 VDC will be fine.
Ray.
The CD63 list is a bit outdated, but most mods of the newer CD57/67 list apply to the CD53/63. There are some differences in the PSU though. C803/804 are one of those. In the CD57/67 there's a lot more room for these caps, so 6800u won't fit in a '53.
The 2u2 and 1u go on the underside of the board, in parallel with the big caps, just like the PPS SMD caps. 50 or 63 VDC will be fine.
Ray.
About the caps ok, I'll check Farnell and ask for confirmation
About the order/ best mod for the price?
I've made a custom steel brace in order to fit where the KI's brace is: I've to think of something else, the side panels are too low.
Some post before I've said my black dampenning sheet is not as heavy as gold... I was wrong! I've got one even bigger sheet, a bit hitten and less "eye perfect" (some impacts or such... but sound does not care ), and stuffed the top & soundy plate: no more "boing" and this is now bloody heavy! It sound so "..."! I've put some in the 2 square places on the top of meca, and closed the box: If weight makes a "felt quality" it weights double the price now!
Still many work to do on dampenning: when knock at the player, the meca still shakes and the power button so.
As for the PSU, mine is fitted with 630mA fuses... bad sign?
About the order/ best mod for the price?
I've made a custom steel brace in order to fit where the KI's brace is: I've to think of something else, the side panels are too low.
An externally hosted image should be here but it was not working when we last tested it.
Some post before I've said my black dampenning sheet is not as heavy as gold... I was wrong! I've got one even bigger sheet, a bit hitten and less "eye perfect" (some impacts or such... but sound does not care
), and stuffed the top & soundy plate: no more "boing" and this is now bloody heavy! It sound so "..."! I've put some in the 2 square places on the top of meca, and closed the box: If weight makes a "felt quality" it weights double the price now!Still many work to do on dampenning: when knock at the player, the meca still shakes and the power button so.
An externally hosted image should be here but it was not working when we last tested it.
As for the PSU, mine is fitted with 630mA fuses... bad sign?
As usual I did more than one mod at the same time 
As I was measuring the opamp supply I did get a lot of 16M in on my scope. Therefore I mounted coax lines from my Tent to the board and places my divider in a nice shielded/grounded round tin box.
I also got a lot of noise on the 12V, residue from the logic in the machine.
So I did tried beefing up / cleaning up the opamp PSU. I injected 2 * 15V AC, .5A into on the original 12V supply (after cutting the 2 lines to the onboard tranny). It was already equipped with schottky's and FC's.
I must admit, it now plays more fluid, everything flows, it plays the bass like
real deep and rock solid. Whether that's due to the shielded clock or the better opamp psu - or both?
As I was measuring the opamp supply I did get a lot of 16M in on my scope. Therefore I mounted coax lines from my Tent to the board and places my divider in a nice shielded/grounded round tin box.
I also got a lot of noise on the 12V, residue from the logic in the machine.
So I did tried beefing up / cleaning up the opamp PSU. I injected 2 * 15V AC, .5A into on the original 12V supply (after cutting the 2 lines to the onboard tranny). It was already equipped with schottky's and FC's.
I must admit, it now plays more fluid, everything flows, it plays the bass like
real deep and rock solid. Whether that's due to the shielded clock or the better opamp psu - or both?Attachments
avr300 said:As usual I did more than one mod at the same time
As I was measuring the opamp supply I did get a lot of 16M in on my scope. Therefore I mounted coax lines from my Tent to the board and places my divider in a nice shielded/grounded round tin box.
I also got a lot of noise on the 12V, residue from the logic in the machine.
So I did tried beefing up / cleaning up the opamp PSU. I injected 2 * 15V AC, .5A into on the original 12V supply (after cutting the 2 lines to the onboard tranny). It was already equipped with schottky's and FC's.
I must admit, it now plays more fluid, everything flows, it plays the bass like
Yeah, familiar with that: once the player shows it's inside the iron glows for hours
Brent reported success with new PSUs long ago, of course. Indeed bass gets more tight, less grain etc.
I did experiment with shielding (on the original XO) and could hear some improvement to detail, although faint.
What's you PSU setup right now? I had good results with a double L filter (common mode rejection) and no more than 1.000uF caps. So, a C-LL-C setup.
Regards, Jaap
Off topic - interconnect
Hi folks, good to see people taking their players forward in various ways...
I felt due to how good my cdp is now attention was needed elsewhere, particularly in replacing my Chord Silver Siren i/c (CD>pre-amp). I never really liked this silver plated i/c - sounded false and bright and confused.
So I made one with Vampire OFC copper phonos (with direct gold plate)(£10 each ) and 0.71mm DCT* (please, no commments on audibility!) enamelled copper. The conductors are wrapped in cotton and the solder was Chimera Labs (with copper content).
The sound, so far, is superb! I don't know if it's getting rid of the teflon insulation, removing the silver from the wire, the good plugs, solder or geometry but it's good. A layer of white sheen has gone and the music is bold and natural. One step closer to live. It's "burning in" now of course
Simon
*Deep Cyrogenically Treated
Hi folks, good to see people taking their players forward in various ways...
I felt due to how good my cdp is now attention was needed elsewhere, particularly in replacing my Chord Silver Siren i/c (CD>pre-amp). I never really liked this silver plated i/c - sounded false and bright and confused.
So I made one with Vampire OFC copper phonos (with direct gold plate)(£10 each
) and 0.71mm DCT* (please, no commments on audibility!) enamelled copper. The conductors are wrapped in cotton and the solder was Chimera Labs (with copper content).The sound, so far, is superb! I don't know if it's getting rid of the teflon insulation, removing the silver from the wire, the good plugs, solder or geometry but it's good. A layer of white sheen has gone and the music is bold and natural. One step closer to live. It's "burning in" now of course
Simon
*Deep Cyrogenically Treated
Attachments
Is that ok to fit on the AD8620?
http://fr.farnell.com/jsp/endecaSearch/partDetail.jsp?SKU=567450&N=0
http://fr.farnell.com/jsp/endecaSearch/partDetail.jsp?SKU=567450&N=0
disco said:Yeah, familiar with that: once the player shows it's inside the iron glows for hours
Brent reported success with new PSUs long ago, of course. Indeed bass gets more tight, less grain etc.
I did experiment with shielding (on the original XO) and could hear some improvement to detail, although faint.
What's you PSU setup right now? I had good results with a double L filter (common mode rejection) and no more than 1.000uF caps. So, a C-LL-C setup.
Regards, Jaap
avr300 said:
May I suggest an experiment?
Place 1.000uF right after the Schottky's. Take for both 12V rails two low resistance 20-40mH inductors (one in the rail and one in the ground), suited for at least 150mA. Again 1.000uF (for each rail). Take away the 470uF after the regulators and experiment with the value of the bypass caps. Panasonics are OK, Rubycon too.
Experiment with a PPS bypass on the bypass caps (0.1 to 3uF).
Jaap
Re: Off topic - interconnect
Howdy Simon,
Hope I don't sound like an old school professor (I did a lot of reading on the subject of audio electronics), ahum.
Electrons travel most at the outside of a conductor, known as the skin effect. Each layer to cross (oxide, other conductors, foreign metals) interacts on their relative speed and introduces unwanted effects. Capacitance from isolation has a bad influance too. Optimal results are obtained from very thin solid conductors, isolated with a low capacitive layer like teflon, silk, cotton, paper etc.
Personally I don't use isolation unless necessary. Flattened 0.25mm silver in teflon tube is my favourite as the tubing is quite strong.
Regards, Jaap
SimontY said:Hi folks, good to see people taking their players forward in various ways...
I felt due to how good my cdp is now attention was needed elsewhere, particularly in replacing my Chord Silver Siren i/c (CD>pre-amp). I never really liked this silver plated i/c - sounded false and bright and confused.
So I made one with Vampire OFC copper phonos (with direct gold plate)(£10 each
The sound, so far, is superb! I don't know if it's getting rid of the teflon insulation, removing the silver from the wire, the good plugs, solder or geometry but it's good. A layer of white sheen has gone and the music is bold and natural. One step closer to live. It's "burning in" now of course
Simon
*Deep Cyrogenically Treated
Howdy Simon,
Hope I don't sound like an old school professor (I did a lot of reading on the subject of audio electronics), ahum.
Electrons travel most at the outside of a conductor, known as the skin effect. Each layer to cross (oxide, other conductors, foreign metals) interacts on their relative speed and introduces unwanted effects. Capacitance from isolation has a bad influance too. Optimal results are obtained from very thin solid conductors, isolated with a low capacitive layer like teflon, silk, cotton, paper etc.
Personally I don't use isolation unless necessary. Flattened 0.25mm silver in teflon tube is my favourite as the tubing is quite strong.
Regards, Jaap
avr300 said:
I really mean MILLI (1/1000) Henry. The purpose is to filter the ripple and mains pollution. You'll find them in old computer PSU's, mostly Murata dual coils with iron center. If you order new they are less than 1 euro each.
Be aware ultra low ESR brings instability for most three legs. For fast transcient response you might try bypassing the reg with solid Tantalum (20-30uF) but some reported extra noise... Have a try.
Re: Re: Off topic - interconnect
Hi Jaap!
I can believe it, lol. Well what you say seems to correlate with this experience I've had. But I did try thin solid silver once and it sounded very bright and harsh and thin... I'll try again one day.
Simon
disco said:
Howdy Simon,
Hope I don't sound like an old school professor (I did a lot of reading on the subject of audio electronics), ahum.
Hi Jaap!
I can believe it, lol. Well what you say seems to correlate with this experience I've had. But I did try thin solid silver once and it sounded very bright and harsh and thin... I'll try again one day.
Simon
Re: Re: Re: Off topic - interconnect
Hi Simon,
From your reports I know you as an experienced audio enthusiast. Still I'd like to add one remark, you'll probably be familiar with.
The cable itself does not make music, of course. But: the effect of capacitance may vary from slight high roll off to subjective low emphasis. If one is 'in need' of loud lows, one might favor the 'sound' of the lesser cable.
Jaap
SimontY said:
Hi Simon,
From your reports I know you as an experienced audio enthusiast. Still I'd like to add one remark, you'll probably be familiar with.
The cable itself does not make music, of course. But: the effect of capacitance may vary from slight high roll off to subjective low emphasis. If one is 'in need' of loud lows, one might favor the 'sound' of the lesser cable.
Jaap