avr300 said:
Hi avr,
The acoustica article shows that the analog supply pins are more like digital pins, considering all the PWM noise that must come OUT of these pins. That's why they insert the extra caps directly across the DAC pins. I would recommend feeding these pins off a separate 5V regulator, not together with the digital or clock supply.
Regards,
Ray.
Attachments
Marantz cd 67se toasted can have for parts
I had an amplifier take out this cd player and the first person willing to pay shipping from Houston TX can have it. I don't know what is wrong with it but it would be ashamed to send it to the scrap heap. There might be some useful junk in it. I just want to clean out my garage.
Regards to all
I had an amplifier take out this cd player and the first person willing to pay shipping from Houston TX can have it. I don't know what is wrong with it but it would be ashamed to send it to the scrap heap. There might be some useful junk in it. I just want to clean out my garage.
Regards to all
I just bought a non working 67se with the symtoms being
"I tested it out and for some reason it would not spin every disc I put in it. The discs that it would spin the player would see the tracks and start to play but was only able to play for a second or 2. I opened in up and the disc looked to me like it wobbled some."
So if the cd transport still works I'll take it. That is if this sounds like the problem to you guys. My cd 53 has this problem but i can get rid of it if I skip the first two tracks of a cd.
"I tested it out and for some reason it would not spin every disc I put in it. The discs that it would spin the player would see the tracks and start to play but was only able to play for a second or 2. I opened in up and the disc looked to me like it wobbled some."
So if the cd transport still works I'll take it. That is if this sounds like the problem to you guys. My cd 53 has this problem but i can get rid of it if I skip the first two tracks of a cd.
poynton said:
Hi Andy,
You mean the big ones or the small ones?
.The smallest one sits between pins 15 and 16 (DVdd and ground) and that's a 100n X7R in a 0603 case.
The other four are also 100n X7R and 0805 case size. I first soldered them to the outer pins (17, 21, 22, 26) and then joined them in the center to ground. If you center their position they overlap the other pins nicely.
The six biggest ones are 100n PPS in a 1913 case and they replace the 47n ceramics.
If you use a fine soldering tip and not too high temp it's not that hard. Some thin soldering wire (0,5mm) can be helpful too.
Regards,
Ray.
Yes Ray your right, it sounds like the disc plater is bent or damaged.
The spindle motor shaft will be ok as it is impossible to bend without the use of a vice and hammer
If there is too much tilt on the plater/disc the laser will not be able to focus.
How this as happened is the previous owner has been inside the unit and tried to align the plater for some reason.
Strip it down, look to see the damage incured and get a replacement disc plater (from a transport with the laser gone). Put a small screw driver at the bottom of the motor shaft so it does not go all the way down. This should be perfect.
Also clean off all the crappy grease on the mech, this causes problems with tracking (which may be why the previous owner went inside it).
The spindle motor shaft will be ok as it is impossible to bend without the use of a vice and hammer
If there is too much tilt on the plater/disc the laser will not be able to focus.
How this as happened is the previous owner has been inside the unit and tried to align the plater for some reason.
Strip it down, look to see the damage incured and get a replacement disc plater (from a transport with the laser gone). Put a small screw driver at the bottom of the motor shaft so it does not go all the way down. This should be perfect.
Also clean off all the crappy grease on the mech, this causes problems with tracking (which may be why the previous owner went inside it).
I think I have found another cheap mod that brings newer depths to this player....no I don't think I know.....
I changed the HF amp components yesterday to good effect and today I have changed every cap and resistor on th RF pcb (under transport) with 0.1% tol res and silver mica caps.
Its really good.
The vocals are smoother the treble is crisper but not harsh and the resonance on piano is very good indeed.
P.S I have not changed C106 10uf 25V as its not for 5V but part of the amp. I will change this when I get a part to replace it.
I changed the HF amp components yesterday to good effect and today I have changed every cap and resistor on th RF pcb (under transport) with 0.1% tol res and silver mica caps.
Its really good.
The vocals are smoother the treble is crisper but not harsh and the resonance on piano is very good indeed.
P.S I have not changed C106 10uf 25V as its not for 5V but part of the amp. I will change this when I get a part to replace it.
An externally hosted image should be here but it was not working when we last tested it.
UTFSB!
(use the freakin' search button)
It's not the whole thing, but i've posted it here:
http://www.diyaudio.com/forums/showthread.php?postid=395539#post395539
Ray.
(use the freakin' search button)
It's not the whole thing, but i've posted it here:
http://www.diyaudio.com/forums/showthread.php?postid=395539#post395539
Ray.
More mods
Caps and resistors on servo. Silver Mica and 0.1% tol res of course.
Its defo a little sharper on the treble. I need more listens but what I hear is very smooth indeed.
Caps and resistors on servo. Silver Mica and 0.1% tol res of course.
Its defo a little sharper on the treble. I need more listens but what I hear is very smooth indeed.
An externally hosted image should be here but it was not working when we last tested it.
