DJNUBZ said:
Hi DJ,
Your CD53 uses yhe same PCB as the CD63, so if you mod it, you should be able to get it to the same audiophile altitude as a 63
On the other hand, an external DAC could be very nice too. What D/A chip do you have in mind?
The DAC in the 53/63 is not bad, I've read somewhere that it's actually a copy of the famous CS4303! (not bad at all...).
Ray.
rowemeister said:He said it was spining but the laser was jumping about.
Its probably either a badly smoothed voltage rail or a RF lock problem.
Its got to be something really minor thats causing the problem.
Or a solder splash
------- SOLDER SPLASH -------
The horror of every electronic (hollow laughing in the background....)
Did ya try service mode yet???
Ray.
rowemeister said:
Good morning Brent, Ray,
I spent hours looking for dry joints last night, to no avail. Perhaps I am not being methodical enough.
6h5c said:
Think I found it! Your clock isn't attached!
Yes - good one! You must have sharp vision
rowemeister said:
Hey, that's visco-elastic damping bird sh*t
6h5c said:Hmm, looks like guano to me....
But let's be serious. Simon, is your player totally dead, or does it spin?
Ray.
Err, the display works and the drive spins, badly. It makes a slightly worrying, almost scraping noise as it spins. It responds to 'play' by doing something but obviously it's not reading the disk. It doesn't know there's a disk in really as it says 'disc'. But no bangs so that's good.
rowemeister said:
Could you offer me (and anyone else) an easy way to do this without risking shorting anything out whilst the player is powered up? I've not tested any voltages simply because I don't want to make things worse in my haste to find the fault(s).
One thing I did notice while following the 12v tracks around and checking for continuity, was that while -12v reaches the op-amps and I can see where it would reach the muting circuits (via tiny traces - now cutoff halfway) I cannot see how it gets to the -12v parts of those chips (tdxx..). There is continuity between -12v of these chips (ie. with one chips -12v pins and the next), but not with the -12v regulator. Could this be the problem? The service manual doesn't seem to show where the power traces go.
The third pin of Q801 and Q802 are the +/- 12V outputs.
The third pin of Q811 is the 5V output
When measuring make sure your common on the DMM is to gnd, Hdam can is a good place for this (ooops you removed it lol).
Measure pins 13,20,28 on ic Q104 for 5v.
Measure pins 1,2,8,9 on ic Q105/Q106 and QM01 for +/- 10V
The third pin of Q811 is the 5V output
When measuring make sure your common on the DMM is to gnd, Hdam can is a good place for this (ooops you removed it lol).
Measure pins 13,20,28 on ic Q104 for 5v.
Measure pins 1,2,8,9 on ic Q105/Q106 and QM01 for +/- 10V
rowemeister said:The third pin of Q801 and Q802 are the +/- 12V outputs.
The third pin of Q811 is the 5V output
When measuring make sure your common on the DMM is to gnd, Hdam can is a good place for this (ooops you removed it lol).
Measure pins 13,20,28 on ic Q104 for 5v.
Measure pins 1,2,8,9 on ic Q105/Q106 and QM01 for +/- 10V
Hmm
I could so easily short those pins. It's a bit too risky, and it means turning it on when it's not in it's box, which scares me, quite frankly.
Is there no safe way to test at least some of the voltages? Couldn't I leave the pcb in and just probe some jumpers, for example?
Will test mode show anything useful perhaps? It will certainly be the next thing I try.
float said:
Hello float,
But my clock is quite well separate from the rest and has been for years, so I really don't suspect it. I've tested the psu voltage to it, and the clock wires go well into the board. Also, when the clock is disconnected the error is quite different (from past experience) - no horrid noises (and no TOC etc.)
SimontY said:
Hmm
I could so easily short those pins. It's a bit too risky, and it means turning it on when it's not in it's box, which scares me, quite frankly.
Is there no safe way to test at least some of the voltages? Couldn't I leave the pcb in and just probe some jumpers, for example?
Will test mode show anything useful perhaps? It will certainly be the next thing I try.
In test mode you can check if all the individual servo's are working.
With the PCB in the player:
- you can measure at RD01 and RD04 for +5V to the DAC and clock.
- R508 and 511 for +5V to the decoder
- R122 and 123 for +5V to the servo chip
- R136 too see if the laser gets +5V (switched)
- and all the other 4,7R resistors that were replaced by inductors
The +/- 12V is only used for opamps/HDAM/phones and muting, the player should work o.k. without it. But you can check it at pins 4 and 8 of either opamp, or at R613...616.
Good luck!
Ray.
float said:
This is only the case with the CD57 or CD67, for those players you are right.
The decoder and servo are integrated in one chip there, that get's its clock from the DAC. If the clock's not there in time, the player won't work.
But the CD63 uses a separate servo-chip which generates it's own clock.
Ray.
6h5c said:In test mode you can check if all the individual servo's are working.
With the PCB in the player:
- you can measure at RD01 and RD04 for +5V to the DAC and clock.
- R508 and 511 for +5V to the decoder
- R122 and 123 for +5V to the servo chip
- R136 too see if the laser gets +5V (switched)
- and all the other 4,7R resistors that were replaced by inductors
The +/- 12V is only used for opamps/HDAM/phones and muting, the player should work o.k. without it. But you can check it at pins 4 and 8 of either opamp, or at R613...616.
Good luck!
Ray.
Excellent, I will look for these parts and measure the voltages
Many thanks
Btw, can I harm anything by leaving everything powered up whilst it's in this unhappy state? Should I disconnect the drive's power or anything?