Aargh... ERR10 still on cd67
HELP ME PLEASE.
Hi guys
Well I've put in new servo chips, resoldered everything I could see in the vicinity of the servo circuits, checked the transport, new laser, made sure it's smooth running, used de-oxit on the ribbons, and said numerous incantations before I plugged it in.
Plugged in, opened the tray which opened beautifully, put a disc in, pressed play, span a little, then......ERR 10.
Replugged in ribbon after another de-oxit.
Any ideas?
(Now balder than I was)
HELP ME PLEASE.
Hi guys
Well I've put in new servo chips, resoldered everything I could see in the vicinity of the servo circuits, checked the transport, new laser, made sure it's smooth running, used de-oxit on the ribbons, and said numerous incantations before I plugged it in.
Plugged in, opened the tray which opened beautifully, put a disc in, pressed play, span a little, then......ERR 10.
Replugged in ribbon after another de-oxit.
Any ideas?
(Now balder than I was)
I think the problem is with the new laser
In the past I have also encountered similar problems when a new laser is fitted and I need to make adjustment to the laser head to disc distance by adjusting the height of the rotating cone to make it work again. You need to be patient.
Yes it can. You can move the cone up and down using a screw driver inserted between its gap. Need to do it carefully. The cone is only slide fit to the motor spindle.
Please note that the cone from the new laser is not the same as the original cone in the old laser. you will notice it when you compare them carefully. The old cone can hold the disc more tightly. What I did was to take out the old cone and fit it back to the new laser unit.
Try to take out the cone from the old laser and you will then understand what I mean
Hi Higlander.
All of the cones, even on the "new" unit are the same. The new one does have a different coloured Flexi pcb, so perhaps they've fitted old type cones because of the problem. Anyway, still no joy. Did you adjust the height of the cone on the spindle, or put it firmly at the bottom?
All of the cones, even on the "new" unit are the same. The new one does have a different coloured Flexi pcb, so perhaps they've fitted old type cones because of the problem. Anyway, still no joy. Did you adjust the height of the cone on the spindle, or put it firmly at the bottom?
The new cone is darker in color then the old one. If you press stop and play button together while power on to enter into test mode and then press the fast forward button the cone will spin and move out while rotating. You will then notice that with the new cone fitted it will slip due to the shape of this cone does not fit perfectly with the top magnetic cap. The old cone does not have this problem.
During adjustment I lift the cone away from the bottom by about 0.5mm.
I have set up a separate case which contains new transformers and power supply components. Please see post 19098.
I have put in a 50VA 2x12 toroidal + diodes, big smoothing caps + s-power regs + big smoothing caps to power the servo (biggest improvement).
Put in a 30VA 2x6 toroidal with 2 secondaries + diodes + s-power regs + Oscons + Tentlabs oscillators to replace each of the servo clock (8.46 MHz) and also the DAC clock (16.934 MHz). (More clarity, less 'noise').
Put in a 50VA 2x15 toroidal + diodes, big smoothing caps + s-power regs + big smoothing caps to power the output stage (not shown in pic). Also added new opamps (LM4562HA) and by-passed the HDAM. (Now becoming more 3-dimensional – bowling alley style)
I have disabled the headphones from the circuit.
I have recently changed the laser, having experienced 'reading' problems. I previously bought another CD63SE off ebay so I have a full set of spares (+ the case I use for the power supplies giving me a matching set of players!).
I have had excellent guidance from my guru throughout this.
I plan in future to set up a DOS board. I have the board, just need the parts. I'll compare to what I have now A-B style.
I also aim to place power regs on the board as Higlander and others have done in place of resistors and power these separately.
I have 2 questions (apologies in advance for my lack of knowledge):
1. I understand that the DAC clock is linked to the Decoder in some way. Am I right in this? Is it possible to power the decoder or its clock separately? Or replace the decoder clock? I have looked at the circuit diagram from the manual but I am lost here. In other words, is it possible to do further mods to gain additional benefits by powering the decoder separately or by replacing the clock? At what position on the board would any hard-wiring be done?
2. I notice there is another oscillator at XF01 (when looking down at the board, south-east of the original position of the servo clock). Is this the Decoder clock (noob question!)? The manual states this is a 'ceramic vibrator' 8.0 MHz. Is it worth replacing this with a Tentlabs clock and powering it separately? Will this make a difference?
Thanks in advance.
I have put in a 50VA 2x12 toroidal + diodes, big smoothing caps + s-power regs + big smoothing caps to power the servo (biggest improvement).
Put in a 30VA 2x6 toroidal with 2 secondaries + diodes + s-power regs + Oscons + Tentlabs oscillators to replace each of the servo clock (8.46 MHz) and also the DAC clock (16.934 MHz). (More clarity, less 'noise').
Put in a 50VA 2x15 toroidal + diodes, big smoothing caps + s-power regs + big smoothing caps to power the output stage (not shown in pic). Also added new opamps (LM4562HA) and by-passed the HDAM. (Now becoming more 3-dimensional – bowling alley style
)I have disabled the headphones from the circuit.
I have recently changed the laser, having experienced 'reading' problems. I previously bought another CD63SE off ebay so I have a full set of spares (+ the case I use for the power supplies giving me a matching set of players!).
I have had excellent guidance from my guru throughout this.
I plan in future to set up a DOS board. I have the board, just need the parts. I'll compare to what I have now A-B style.
I also aim to place power regs on the board as Higlander and others have done in place of resistors and power these separately.
I have 2 questions (apologies in advance for my lack of knowledge):
1. I understand that the DAC clock is linked to the Decoder in some way. Am I right in this? Is it possible to power the decoder or its clock separately? Or replace the decoder clock? I have looked at the circuit diagram from the manual but I am lost here. In other words, is it possible to do further mods to gain additional benefits by powering the decoder separately or by replacing the clock? At what position on the board would any hard-wiring be done?
2. I notice there is another oscillator at XF01 (when looking down at the board, south-east of the original position of the servo clock). Is this the Decoder clock (noob question!)? The manual states this is a 'ceramic vibrator' 8.0 MHz. Is it worth replacing this with a Tentlabs clock and powering it separately? Will this make a difference?
Thanks in advance.
You may try 2 separate clocks to drive the DAC and the Decoder but I doubt you can get any noticeable improvements
One thing you need to bear in mind is that you might not get any sound output as the two clocks may not work together due to timing issue. Hope that is only my worry.I have not checked the circuit diagram but from my memory XF01 is for the use of the big control chip for the display unit and I don't think there is any benefit in improving SQ at all when using an independent clock to it.
You may try 2 separate clocks to drive the DAC and the Decoder but I doubt you can get any noticeable improvements
I have not checked the circuit diagram but from my memory XF01 is for the use of the big control chip for the display unit and I don't think there is any benefit in improving SQ at all when using an independent clock to it.
Thanks, yet again, higlander, for your input and advice. I will abandon the idea of another clock for the decoder. Another thought: would it be worthwhile (improve SQ) having a separate power supply for the decoder?
If XF01 is for the display, then I agree there will be no point in re-clocking.
I did not mention in my list of mods above that I had populated my board with Oscons as per your previous advice on here... thanks for that.
You may try 2 separate clocks to drive the DAC and the Decoder but I doubt you can get any noticeable improvements
I have not checked the circuit diagram but from my memory XF01 is for the use of the big control chip for the display unit and I don't think there is any benefit in improving SQ at all when using an independent clock to it.
That won't work....they need to be derived from the same clock
That is exactly what I am worrying about as I had encountered a problem of making the DAC/Decoder work even with the same clock (happened in one out of my seven modded projects, the other six are OK).
There is no need to say thanks as this is a place for experience sharing. I gain my experience after modding quite a number of CD63s (seven to be exact).
If you can have a low noise separate power supply to the decoder that will certainly help improving the SQ. A simpler method is to use Fidelity Audio's +5V low noise regulators for digital circuit.
Just a reminder for powering the DAC you need two separate supplies - one for the analogue power and the other for the digital. You also need to make a minor circuit change to the copper straps at the back of the PCB as one of the digital supplies is connected to the analogue supply - you need to separate it out. This was initially pointed out by Brent of Fidelity Audio.
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I will investigate 2 separate supplies for the DAC (1 analogue, 1 digital). Is this in addition to what I have done in re-clocking the DAC and feeding it with a separate power supply? Or does what I have done count for the digital part?
Re the minor circuit change: Is this what you mean?
I have so much to learn!
Exactly that one. I am pleased that you have gone thro' the previous pages and I don't have to dig it out myself
Just has a chance to look at eBay. No, it is not my work but looks very similar to what I had done. I believe the modder has shared the experience from this forum