Marantz CD63 & CD67 mods list

If you want to find out how clean your power line is try using this :
Belkin PureAV Power Sniffer AC Line Noise Detector (AP00002ea) | Techdna.co.uk

I got one but it seems it is no more available in the market :(

This Belkin is a funny device (we have one), yes it detects some noise on your mains and with most filters you can hear a drop in the audio volume it produces for the given noise. The problem is it does not detect up in the HF frequencies at all. This is probably because Belkin produce routers etc that pollute the mains very badly. They don't want you to hear that ;)

regards
Brent
 
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Joined 2006
Paid Member
This Belkin is a funny device (we have one), yes it detects some noise on your mains and with most filters you can hear a drop in the audio volume it produces for the given noise. The problem is it does not detect up in the HF frequencies at all. This is probably because Belkin produce routers etc that pollute the mains very badly. They don't want you to hear that ;)

regards
Brent

Hehe :)
 
Any of you used one of these, and if so, is it any good? I know it's cheap, but as a beginner at this, I'd rather kill a cheap item to start with, rather than a really good one. Alternatively, have searched for DIY kits, but can't seem to find one. Is there any.
1PPM 33.8688 16.9344 MHz Low Jitter TCXO Clock Module | eBay

Your link did not work but I believe you are talking something like this:
1PPM 16.9344 8.4672 Mhz Low Jitter TCXO Clock Module | eBay

I have modded two CD63s for my friends using similar clocks to control their budget. Yes they are cheap and is certainly better than the stock clock. You can hear improvements but if you want a quality one I strongly recommend Fidelity Audio's C3 clock which IMHO is the best on market, if you can affort it ;).

If you want a DIY kit why not consider Ray's clocks (Fleas). They are also very good and value for the money.
http://www.raylectronics.nl/

I have used two of them for my CD63, one for the servo (16.xxMhz) and one for the DAC (8.xxMHz). They are certainly better than the one you find in eBay.
 
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Higlander.
They look very nice and seem to do a lot.
Wonder how much ferrite is used inside in the form of rings and beads?
Going to try the iec connector, and some screened Belden mains cable.
Probably wont make much difference, but I'll feel like I've at least done something.
I don't think there are ferrites inside the IEC line filter :( Instead you will only find a few chokes and caps inside ;).
In considering the cost of the line filter (just a few £) there is no harm to fit one :nod:
 
I don't think there are ferrites inside the IEC line filter :( Instead you will only find a few chokes and caps inside ;).
In considering the cost of the line filter (just a few £) there is no harm to fit one :nod:

The only problem with line filters is they harm dynamics due to the increased impedance of the mains. Your amp will suffer the most.

You will probably find sliding a load of ferrites down your mains leads will have a bigger effect.

regards
Brent
 
The only problem with line filters is they harm dynamics due to the increased impedance of the mains. Your amp will suffer the most.

You will probably find sliding a load of ferrites down your mains leads will have a bigger effect.

regards
Brent
Totally agreed with you Brent. But for CDP as the current drawn is very small the lost in dynamics should be neglectable. Normally I will not fit IEC line filters to power amplifier but instead as you said I normally insert a ferrite ring to the incoming power cable.
 
As I have now removed my transformer I have been looking at the service manual and post #18527 by Higlander

Ben has kindly confirmed that the wiring for the 3 Transformers are correct, i.e:
U305 - 12V in from 5VA Tx
U306 - 18V in from 15VA Tx
U307 - 18V in from 15VA Tx
U308 - 12V in from 50VA Tx
U309 - Ground for the 3 Tx
U310 - 12V in from 50VA Tx
U311 - 12V in from 5VA TX
U312 - 12V in after passing through the 16.4ohm resistor.

just wondering U312, which transformer does it come from and where does the need for the 16.4ohm resistor originate from.
 
As I have now removed my transformer I have been looking at the service manual and post #18527 by Higlander

Ben has kindly confirmed that the wiring for the 3 Transformers are correct, i.e:
U305 - 12V in from 5VA Tx
U306 - 18V in from 15VA Tx
U307 - 18V in from 15VA Tx
U308 - 12V in from 50VA Tx
U309 - Ground for the 3 Tx
U310 - 12V in from 50VA Tx
U311 - 12V in from 5VA TX
U312 - 12V in after passing through the 16.4ohm resistor.

just wondering U312, which transformer does it come from and where does the need for the 16.4ohm resistor originate from.

This is to replace the 3.6V secondary winding of the stock TX.
From my experience 16.4 ohm is too small to reduce the voltage from 12V to 3.6V and I suggest you use at least 47 ohm or something of higher value.

One more thing for U306 and U307 I suggest using 15Vx2 30VA TX as 18V is a bit on the high side.

Please refer to my thread in #19290. I had posted a circuit diagram.
http://www.diyaudio.com/forums/digital-source/54009-marantz-cd63-cd67-mods-list-1929.html
 
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Member
Joined 2006
Paid Member
Totally agreed with you Brent. But for CDP as the current drawn is very small the lost in dynamics should be neglectable. Normally I will not fit IEC line filters to power amplifier but instead as you said I normally insert a ferrite ring to the incoming power cable.

I did experiment with line filters and noticed a huge dynamic loss in my cdp.
 
Got my hands on these 68nF capacitors. Does anyone know what kind of caps they are? Looks like silver stacked film or something like that.

Are they good to use for decoupling in the player?
 

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Does this look like a good damping material?
It comes in at around £17.00 delivered, but looks big enough to do 2 units.
Damping Sheet HD - Damping Sheets - Automotive

I used something like this on all my modding projects:
CAR VAN VEHICLE SOUND DEADENING PROOFING PADS SHEETS 10 | eBay

They look similar to what you have mentioned and one box of 10 sheets is more than sufficient for two CD63s.

PS: It seems the hyperlink with eBay does not work. Try search eBay using the above title instead.
 
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Know the ones you mean.
On another note, I have ordered a flea kit from Ray.
I have a CD63 and a CD67 to mod.
Which would be the best to do and put the effort in?
I have no experience with CD67 but according to the circuit diagram, CD67 has a better servo circuitry design. CD67 only needs one clock freq. for the servo and the DAC while CD63 needs two different freq. If you have Ray's Flea with 16.xx MHz then you can clock the servo and the DAC at the same time.
BTW I think CD67 has more room than CD63 that may make modding work easier ;)
 
CD67 it is then.
I've also just ordered a new set of servo ic's as well for the 67, so fits in quite nicely.
Caps ordering is next on the list. So many, but I'm going to do the main ones (imho) first.
Think I may have had ESD problems before, solved now with wrist straps, mats, etc. so hopefully make for a safer installation.