Hi Ben,Mundorf AG snap-in caps are under 8 quid at PCX right now. Limited stocks available. These caps are perfect for the CD63 and you dont need to drill the PCB to fit - just solder about a centimeter length of wire. It helps to remove the remote bus switch that nobody ever uses.
To run 2 clocks, I found it worked well to get a small toroid with dual secondaries and build 2 separate PSUs on one compact board.
Nice work !! Did you make your own clock or is it available in the market ? I like it because it is SMALL
Yes.
Ultimately if you're also bypassing HDAM and muting then you can wire direct from the op-amps output to a good quality pair of RCA connectors and, optionally, decent film caps at least 2.2uF or above (I rely on the 3.3uF blocking caps after the input selection board in my amp).
If you're removing the back-to-back blocking caps and not replacing them with film caps, make sure you don't have significant DC bias before connecting to your amp!
Ultimately if you're also bypassing HDAM and muting then you can wire direct from the op-amps output to a good quality pair of RCA connectors and, optionally, decent film caps at least 2.2uF or above (I rely on the 3.3uF blocking caps after the input selection board in my amp).
If you're removing the back-to-back blocking caps and not replacing them with film caps, make sure you don't have significant DC bias before connecting to your amp!
Today I removed all these components
C655...658
C659/660
R651...654
R655/656
R657/658
U210/214
QN05...08
But no sound. I later solder jumpered for these positions C655...658. Still no sound. Please tell me where and all I need to solder jumpers or replacement components and what value. Mine is CD53, so no HDAM.
Thanks
Badri
C655...658
C659/660
R651...654
R655/656
R657/658
U210/214
QN05...08
But no sound. I later solder jumpered for these positions C655...658. Still no sound. Please tell me where and all I need to solder jumpers or replacement components and what value. Mine is CD53, so no HDAM.
Thanks
Badri
I've been assessing the available space for PSUs. It's tight, but I have space for 3 7VA toroids with dual secondaries on the back panel by the IEC and room for 6 of the big filter caps down by the deleted headphone socket. So I was thinking of doing separate analogue supplies for DAC, decoder and ... what's the other IC again? Servo control?
The question I have is how to connect them? It seems I'll have to take long wires along either the front or back panel. Where should I put the rectifier bridge? By the transformers for long DC wires or by the caps for long AC wires? I seem to remember Simon saying long AC wires are preferable, so that would mean having 6 pairs of long 9V AC wires needing to cross the diagonal of the case somehow without introducing noise. Any suggestions? Should I twist the wires or use shielding?
Also, with this plan, the 6 filter caps would be quite close to the decoder. Is that a concern?
Thanks guys
The question I have is how to connect them? It seems I'll have to take long wires along either the front or back panel. Where should I put the rectifier bridge? By the transformers for long DC wires or by the caps for long AC wires? I seem to remember Simon saying long AC wires are preferable, so that would mean having 6 pairs of long 9V AC wires needing to cross the diagonal of the case somehow without introducing noise. Any suggestions? Should I twist the wires or use shielding?
Also, with this plan, the 6 filter caps would be quite close to the decoder. Is that a concern?
Thanks guys
C655-658 are output caps
C659&60 wont stop the sound as they are filtering on the output
R651-654 are PSU for the HDAM so if the audio is bypassing the HDAM this is fine otherwise you will get no sound (default in your player as there is no HDAM)
R657 and 658 are in the signal path after the output caps
U210 and 214 take the output from the dac to the HDAM section
The transistors are for muting after the Caps and resistors you have removed.
What you have done it remove components from the signal path without consideration for where the signal will end up. By removing the wire links U210 and 214, the audio output stops after the opamp section and goes nowhere.
Link from the opamp side of wire links you removed direct to the output phono's of the player. This will bypass everything after the opamp & filter stage.
I must say, you really should be looking to understand some basics in the service manual before you make these sorts of modifications!!!!
Further to Ian's warning, while many of the common mods detailed in this forum and associated lists are a well-traveled path, you should really try to not do too much in one sitting without testing and listening to the effects to make sure it's a step in the direction that you want to go.
I've tried some things in my player that have worked well for other people but haven't appealed to me. I've also broken it and fixed it lots of times just doing the simplest thing.
So I recommend you make the changes slowly and carefully or risk bricking it or ending up something you can't stand to listen to.
I've tried some things in my player that have worked well for other people but haven't appealed to me. I've also broken it and fixed it lots of times just doing the simplest thing.
So I recommend you make the changes slowly and carefully or risk bricking it or ending up something you can't stand to listen to.
Yes as ian says a basic understanding of a circuit diagram is a must signal in mmm nowhere to go.
Did Brent give you a price on the C2 Alan??
Btw, I redid my xovers with mundorf supreme. Binned off the crappy elco's and Kimber 4tc rewired. Def well worthwhile
Just changed the speakers so need to do it all again!!!!!!!!!
Totally agreed Ben
Try doing the mod bit by bid and connect up the power after a small change. Then listen if you can hear any improvement and confirm everything is working alright before doing another mod. This will save you a lot of time on trouble shooting in case there is a fault.
re clock
Miss the detail a clock gives will drive up to doncaster to fetch one . just fitted a yoshi can and remap to the bike all good @ the mo.
cheers ian alan
Did Brent give you a price on the C2 Alan??
Btw, I redid my xovers with mundorf supreme. Binned off the crappy elco's and Kimber 4tc rewired. Def well worthwhile
Just changed the speakers so need to do it all again!!!!!!!!!
Miss the detail a clock gives will drive up to doncaster to fetch one . just fitted a yoshi can and remap to the bike all good @ the mo.
cheers ian alan
I noticed the price of Brent's C2 has reduced in eBay
Presently £149 +£7.99 postage.Just finished a listening session with my modded CD67. Some tracks just sounded amazing. Other tracks I love sounded disappointing. It's amazing what you can do with £250 and a lot of time mixed in with sheer "bloody mindedness" . Several times I had the disc spinning in different directions with the laser clicking away....
The amp and speakers used currently are a cambridge audio A3i and some old mordaunt short MS5.40s. Next is to get the cyrus amp out. Then maybe if I can be bothered move my DIY setup into the lounge (The speakers weigh in at a combined 160Kg). Fully active with leach amps and equalized sealed subs.
So a big thank you to all those that have contributed to this thread with the information I devoured to get my player to this state. My player may not be as good as some of the others created by members of this board but I'm amazed at the results achieved (so far...).
The amp and speakers used currently are a cambridge audio A3i and some old mordaunt short MS5.40s. Next is to get the cyrus amp out. Then maybe if I can be bothered move my DIY setup into the lounge (The speakers weigh in at a combined 160Kg). Fully active with leach amps and equalized sealed subs.
So a big thank you to all those that have contributed to this thread with the information I devoured to get my player to this state. My player may not be as good as some of the others created by members of this board but I'm amazed at the results achieved (so far...).
Intermittent clicking laser / backwards disc sounds like a loose connection somewhere.
When I get that, I usually just gently touch the top of components to see what makes it change behaviour (with the sound off and nowhere near the mains, of course! Safety first!)
My sled goes crazy sometimes when I start from cold, but that seems to be just a startup time problem caused by capacitor charging delay.
Re: my question from earlier, if nobody has any advice to the contrary then I guess I'll try running 9V AC wires along the front panel and hope for the best.
When I get that, I usually just gently touch the top of components to see what makes it change behaviour (with the sound off and nowhere near the mains, of course! Safety first!)
My sled goes crazy sometimes when I start from cold, but that seems to be just a startup time problem caused by capacitor charging delay.
Re: my question from earlier, if nobody has any advice to the contrary then I guess I'll try running 9V AC wires along the front panel and hope for the best.
This pic shows the signal path from the Opamp filter stage to the output photos.
You have removed various components from the signal path. Now you must reinstate a direct path to the output
Problem fixed. Thanks UV101. Given picture helped me. Very audible difference I am hearing after removing these components.
Thanks
Badri
Thanks higlander. Separate chip supplies were a big win for me, as was separate transformers for output, servo/5v and display, but I picked up a very low level 60Hz hum at some point that I can't seem to track down. It's not audible at listening levels - only in stop mode with amp volume past 12 o'clock (speaker blowing time) - but I'm concerned that I might make it worse.